Revealing how a modern notion of fashion helped to transform the novel and its representation of social change and individual and collective life in nineteenth-century Britain, Lauren Gillingham offers a revisionist history of the novel. With particular attention to the fiction of the 1820s through 1840s, this study focuses on novels that use fashion's idiom of currency and obsolescence to link narrative form to a heightened sense of the present and the visibility of public life. It contends that novelists steeped their fiction in date-stamped matters of dress, manners, and media sensations to articulate a sense of history as unfolding not in epochal change, but in transient issues and interests capturing the public's imagination. Reading fiction by Mary Shelley, Letitia Landon, Edward Bulwer-Lytton, W. H. Ainsworth, Charles Dickens, Mary Elizabeth Braddon, and others, Fashionable Fictions tells the story of a nineteenth-century genre commitment to contemporaneity that restyles the novel itself.

*** The New York Times Bestseller *** 'Lucy Adlington tells of the horrors of the Nazi occupation and the concentration camps from a fascinating and original angle. She introduces us to a little known aspect of the period, highlighting the role of clothes in the grimmest of societies imaginable and giving an insight into the women who stayed alive by stitching' - Alexandra Shulman, author of Clothes...and other things that matter 'Compelling... Adlington tells the stories of the women with clarity and steely precision' - Jewish Chronicle 'An utterly absorbing, important and unique historical read' - Judy Batalion, NY Times bestselling author of The Light of Our Days: The Untold Story of Women Resistance Fighters in Hitler's Ghettos 'Powerful... a fascinating account.' - Woman The powerful chronicle of the women who used their sewing skills to survive the Holocaust, stitching beautiful clothes at an extraordinary fashion workshop created within one of the most notorious WWII death camps. At the height of the Holocaust twenty-five young inmates of the infamous Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp - mainly Jewish women and girls - were selected to design, cut, and sew beautiful fashions for elite Nazi women in a dedicated salon. It was work that they hoped would spare them from the gas chambers. This fashion workshop - called the Upper Tailoring Studio - was established by Hedwig Hoess, the camp commandant's wife, and patronized by the wives of SS guards and officers. Here, the dressmakers produced high-quality garments for SS social functions in Auschwitz, and for ladies from Nazi Berlin's upper crust. Drawing on diverse sources - including interviews with the last surviving seamstress - The Dressmakers of Auschwitz follows the fates of these brave women. Their bonds of family and friendship not only helped them endure persecution, but also to play their part in camp resistance. Weaving the dressmakers' remarkable experiences within the context of Nazi policies for plunder and exploitation, historian Lucy Adlington exposes the greed, cruelty, and hypocrisy of the Third Reich and offers a fresh look at a little-known chapter of World War II and the Holocaust.

Peter Lindbergh, one of the world's foremost fashion photographers, celebrates the female form in this classic book. Peter Lindbergh's Images of Women is now available in this new unabridged compact edition. Lindbergh, who passed away in 2019, took a comprehensive look at his body of work from the 1980s and '90s and hand selected these black-and-white photographs of the most beautiful and famous women in the world. It was the era of the supermodels, a phenomenon he himself had helped create, and he left his own unique stamp upon it, influencing an entire generation of fashion photographers with his distinct style. Lindbergh was always interested in the aura, individuality, and personality of his models which resulted in images that captured an ideal of beauty more than just perfection and glamour. This splendid monograph represents the definitive collection of Lindbergh's considerable oeuvre: classic fashion photographs, arresting candids, portraits of female celebrities--including Madonna, Isabella Rossellini, Sharon Stone, Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Rampling, Daryl Hannah--and of course his signature shots of the world's supermodels.

For college and high school courses in Fashion Design by Computer, Fashion Illustration by Computer, Computer Design, and CAD for Fashion. This fully-updated text addresses industry's need to train fashion students to draw fashion flats and illustrations, textile designs, and presentations using the latest versions of Adobe Illustrator. Emphasizing the creative process, "ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR FOR FASHION DESIGN, 2/e" explores Illustrator's powerful capabilities as related to drawings of clothing, fashion poses, and textile prints. It offers clear and illustrated instructions throughout, guiding students through learning all the electronic drawing techniques they will need to work successfully in fashion. In this second edition, new online videos show students how to perform many key techniques step-by-step, and online examples of previous student projects inspire new students. This Second Edition also adds updated coverage of merchandising techniques, electronic portfolio preparation, technical drawings, tech packs, and much more.

An exploration of the corset as a motif for textile artists, with practical tips and examples.Used for the last 400 years to contort the female body into a variety of fashionable silhouettes, the corset has become a fascinating and hugely popular motif for modern textile artists who wish to represent the female body using the largely feminine traditions of textile and stitch. Beginning with a step-by-step guide to constructing a simple fabric corset, the book goes on to explore more contemporary and experimental approaches to construction, from using unusual materials such as lace, metal, paper and found fibres to up-cycling or repurposing existing garments to make a statement. This practical guide is full of exercises for creating intimate garments and wearable art in two- and three-dimensions and is packed with inspiring work and installations by other contemporary artists.

Most take for granted that a pair of jeans is not considered complete without patches, rivets, buttons, and other trims. The existence of such design elements is not questioned because they are seen as the standard. Nick Williams's book is exclusively dedicated to denim branding and deconstructs every element that goes into branding a pair of jeans. These elements are a jeans' identity, its source code, a marker from which to discover the jean's provenance. Through beautiful and inspirational photography, this book tells the fascinating and sometimes surprising history of denim branding from the 1870s to current day. Primary source materials for this book come from the historical archive departments of Levi Strauss & Co., Lee Jeans, Wrangler, Carhartt, and Cone Mills, as well as some of the best contemporary denim brands of today, including Rogue Territory, Dawson Denim, Denham, Kings of Indigo, Endrime, Evisu, Eat Dust, Butcher of Blue, and Tellason.

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 Libertine practices have long been associated with transgression and social deviance. This innovative book is the first to focus fully on the relationship between libertinism as a social phenomenon and as a form of fashion. Taking the reader from early modernity to the present day, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas reveal how the connection between clothing and the taboo, the erotic, and the forbidden is at the heart of "libertine fashion". Moving from the decadent courts of Charles II and Louis XV to the catwalks of the 21st century, Libertine Fashion examines literary and sartorial figures ranging from the Marquis de Sade and Lord Byron to Oscar Wilde, Josephine Baker, Colette, and Madonna. Focusing on libertinism as a sartorial practice and identity, this book traces the genealogy of the concept through the proto feminists of the English Reformation, the hedonistic decadents of the fin de siecle, and the Flappers of the Roaring 20s. The historical arc traverses the 1970s era of punk and glam, the shapeshifting personae of David Bowie, and the "disciplinary regimes" of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Looking at libertine practices and appearances with fresh eyes, this bracing and original book affords many new insights into transgressive style, and of the relationship between sexuality and clothing. Accessible and thoroughly researched, Libertine Fashion uses a multidisciplinary approach that draws on historical literature, film, fashion, philosophy, and popular culture. Offering a historical and philosophical grounding in contemporary forms of identity and dress, it is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, gender, sexuality, and cultural studies.

In a searing 2012 Guardian op-ed, Hannah Azieb Pool took Western fashion designers to task for their so-called African-inspired clothing. 'Dear Fashion,' she wrote, 'Africa is a continent, not a country. Can you imagine anyone describing a fashion trend as "European-inspired?" Of course not. It's meaningless.' Now, with Fashion Cities Africa, Pool aims to correct the misconceptions about African fashion, providing key context for contemporary African fashion scenes and capturing the depth and breadth of truly African fashion. Tied to the Fashion Cities Africa exhibition at the Brighton Museum, the book gives much needed attention to four key African fashion scenes: Nairobi, Lagos, Casablanca and Johannesburg - one from each region of the continent. Filled with interviews of leading African fashion designers, stylists and commentators, alongside hundreds of exclusive street-style images, Fashion Cities Africa is a landmark book that should be celebrated in fashion houses the world over.

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers' ideas.This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.

This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. "A remarkable resource for the field of fashion studies suitable for both newcomers ... [and] seasoned practitioners." - Fashion Historia "A precious source in the study of the subject ... inspiring." - The Journal of Dress History The last decade has seen the growing popularity and visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions. This book explores the history of fashion displays, highlighting the continuity of past and present curatorial practices. Comparing and contrasting exhibitions from different museums and decades-from the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 to the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011, and beyond-it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By critically analyzing trends in fashion exhibition practice over the 20th and early 21st centuries, Julia Petrov defines and describes the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American museum exhibitions. Rooted in extensive archival research on exhibitions by global leaders in the field-from the Victoria and Albert and the Bath Fashion Museum to the Brooklyn and the Royal Ontario Museums-the work reveals how fashion exhibitions have been shaped by the values and anxieties associated with fashion more generally. Supplemented by parallel critical approaches, including museological theory, historiography, body theory, material culture, and visual studies, Fashion, History, Museums demonstrates that in an increasingly corporate and mass-mediated world, fashion exhibitions must be analysed in a comparative and global context. Richly illustrated with 70 images, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion history and museology, as well as curators, conservators, and exhibition designers.

Bring the best Italian fashion looks to life with the Iconic 1000 Piece Puzzle. The Iconic 1000 Piece Puzzle puzzle is a lavish celebration of Italian fashion's most dramatic looks, from internationally renowned fashion illustrator Megan Hess. For centuries, Italian fashion has been known for its craftsmanship and luxury, but also for its creativity and, most of all, its passion. Lace, leopard print and show-stopping red dresses - the masters of Italian fashion know how to make a statement. Now you too can absorb yourself in the world of Italian fashion with this bold puzzle. Recommended for ages 10 and up, the Iconic 1000 Piece Puzzles takes 3 to 10 hours to complete. Completed puzzle measures 685 x 480 mm.

Coco Chanel lived her own life as a romantic heroine. Fuelled by 19th century literature, she built a life which was partly myth and, partly, factual. She was the fashion designer everyone admired. The business woman whose fortune was impossible to track. She was also a performer, lover of many high profile intellectuals and, as believed by many, a nazi spy. Her life was, extraordinarily, affected by history (the nazi movement and World War II), symbolism and literature. This biography explores her life from her troubled and poor past to the opening of her first hat shop, passions and secrets; the biography also draws parallelisms between myths and facts and how, and if ever, they match at all. The biography also features chapters on the Chanel Maison and the creation of her iconic trademark as well as her little black dress' and Chanel No 5'. Finally, the biography ends with a reflection on how the myth of Coco Chanel is represented today in pop culture.

Woven & Worn offers a fascinating insight into the workings of innovative global craftspeople who create environmentally-conscious clothing in a bid to protect the planet from the ruinous effects of a toxic industry. Within this book, talented artisan makers such as weavers, dressmakers, dyers, and jewellers give consumers the power to alter the tired fabric of the fashion industry and embrace the energetic campaign for a sustainable circular economy. Marking a potential revival of the make-do-and-mend era, Woven & Worn showcases the variety of materials and processes used to craft wearables with both longevity and soul. Demonstrating the diversity within sustainable garment making, this title highlights ground-breaking renewable materials created from by-products of the food industry, such as banana and fish skins, as well as ingenious techniques, and "zero waste" production methods, including utilising offcut materials and upcycling vintage fabrics. Discover tactile vegan leather rucksacks, painterly plant-dyed textiles, and intricate reclaimed plastic adornment alongside traditional repair techniques such as darning and sashiko. Delve into the unseen creative workspaces of skilled crafters; admire their unique tools and processes, and absorb their intriguing stories. Sustainability is tightly woven into their creative practices as they tackle the wasteful industry, one beautifully-crafted garment at a time.

An invaluable resource for fashion students, teachers and designers, this book looks at research sketchbooks and the role they play in the research and design process. Demonstrating how ideas are constructed, for single garments as well as entire collections, the book looks at how pages and whole sketchbooks are put together. New Fashion Designers' Sketchbooks includes work and sketchbook pages from over 30 fashion designers, and examines a range of work from foundation fashion students through to professional designers. Included in the book is information about each designer on what inspires them, how they express this in their work, and how they use research sketchbooks in the design process.

"Fascinating." Perspective "A fascinating, often funny, and eminently stylish personal memoir ... I loved it." - Chris Breward, author of The Suit "Wide-ranging, thought-provoking and important." - Claire Wilcox, author of Patch Work Elizabeth Wilson is a pioneer of fashion studies, yet she never intended to become an academic. Starting her literary career as a feminist activist writing for the underground press, she went on to explore tennis, 'bohemians' and of course fashion - her obsession - along with forays into fiction. Throughout, she has never seen her work as abstract or disengaged from 'real life'. In her memoir, she traces this relationship between personal experience and her writing, revisiting pivotal moments from childhood, adolescence and adult life to explore her belief that research, by its nature, is always a form of autobiography. She unfolds the garment of her life in a wide-ranging exploration of scenes from her past: her difficult relationship with her mother, fashion in the 60s and gay liberation. In this journey through time she shows how experiences are inseparable from the way we seek to explain and understand them, offering a unique and deeply personal account of her - and our - cultural world.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

The 20th century saw fashion evolve from an exclusive Parisian salon business catering for the wealthy elite into a global industry employing millions, with new trends whisked into stores before the last model has even left the catwalk. Along the way, the signature silhouettes of each era evolved beyond recognition. For women, House of Worth crinolines gave way to Vionnet's bias-cut gowns, Dior's New Look to Quant's Chelsea Look, Halston's white suit to Frankie B.'s low-rise jeans. In menswear, ready-made suits signaled the demise of bespoke tailoring, long before Hawaiian shirts or skinny jeans entered the game. 20th-Century Fashion offers a retrospective of the last hundred years of style via 400 fashion advertisements from the Jim Heimann Collection. The images trace not only the changing trends but also the evolution in their marketing and audience, as fashion was adopted into popular culture and the mass market, decade by decade. An in-depth introduction and illustrated timeline detail the style-makers and trendsetters, and how historic events, design houses, retailers, films, magazines, and celebrities shaped the way we dressed-then and now. About the series Bibliotheca Universalis - Compact cultural companions celebrating the eclectic TASCHEN universe!

This is your invitation to the front row. Spanning over seven decades and 300 shows, this beautiful book tells the story of the high fashion catwalk. Through this inspirational collection of fashion show invites and tales from fashion week, curator and fashion writer Iain R Webb opens a window into the world's most exclusive fashion houses. Whether it's dreamy romance at Givenchy, cutting-edge modernity at Alexander McQueen, floral drama at Valentino, vintage-inspired fun at Kenzo or heartfelt emotion at Yves Saint Laurent's final haute couture show, the unique themes and styles that have graced the runway in the past 50 years are gloriously curated and described in The Fashion Show. From understated presentation to melodramatic performance, this stylish archive is your passport to the international fashion collections.

Commanding the hothouse environment of Harajuku, the street fashion and culture district of Tokyo, Hiroshi Fujiwara is recognized the world over as a pioneer in streetwear, music, and art and is the ultimate arbiter of cool. Known internationally as one of the founding fathers of the 1990s Tokyo scene, Fujiwara exerts a disproportionate influence over contemporary design culture. With recent and highly successful collaborations with Louis Vuitton and Moncler, and with his mainstay work at Nike and Medicom, Fujiwara refines an aesthetic immersed in punk, hip-hop, and skate culture and translates it into pure luxury. A musician and producer originally from western Japan, Fujiwara is one of the most prolific of sneaker designers, and his kicks remain some of the most sought-after collectibles. In addition to his very visible and long-standing collaborations with major Western brands, he has long associations with Japanese disruptors like Jun Takahashi of Undercover and is head of the Tokyo-based Fragment Design. Chronicling his reign as the arbiter of hip for more than thirty years, this book presents his current preoccupations, with chapters on his highly sought-after artwork and graphics, sneakers, product design, and curated personal effects, giving readers a unique glimpse into one of the most influential tastemakers of our time.

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on smart and sustainable industrial procedures and 3D printing, issues in marketing and communication, and topics concerning social responsibility, sustainability, emotions, creativity and education. It highlights research that is expected to foster the development of design and fashion on a global and interdisciplinary scale. Gathering the proceedings of the 5th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2022, held on July 4-7, 2022, in Guimaraes, Portugal, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education.

The heyday of Silent Film, so beloved by film buffs, was an era that became instantly quaint with the arrival of "Talkies." As early as 1929, critics and film historians were writing of the period as though of the distant past. Since then, a torrent of books has been released, many of which mention art-in the main, asking whether film could be art-others discussing the splendor of the sets, the persuasion of the ambiance, or the psychological depth of the scenario. What these authors seem to have overlooked is the work of the costume and set designers to provide the background which profoundly affects all of the above. Most especially, they failed to examine the source of the inspiration on those who created that background. To fill this apparent gap, the premise of this volume-costume and set design in the silent film-concentrates on what is arguably the most prevailing influence on both, the presumed nobility of the Middle Ages. Largely owing to the psychological upset of World War I, although beginning earlier, society was in a state of flux. Women, who had been so active during the war, refused to return exclusively to home and kitchen. Veterans, who had experienced the worst, could no longer accept the prewar class restrictions and artificial manners. It was only natural that a longing for what seemed a nobler and purer period would be created. Designers, if only partly consciously, turned to that period like flowers to the sun, creating an ambiance which they felt reflected those higher ideals. Ironically, although the influence is more than obvious in both sets and wardrobes, the period devolves into one of freedom bordering on license, and an almost complete overthrow of those old-fashioned ideals.

An understanding of trends is a fundamental skill for anyone working in the fashion industry. In this book Gwyneth Holland and Rae Jones look at how to produce a well-researched trend, from initial inspiration to concrete idea and, eventually, real product. Illustrated throughout with insights from practising trend forecasters and industry insiders, it is an invaluable guide for fashion students and practitioners alike.

Learn to style for advertisements, magazines and portfolios and take your first steps into one of fashion communication's most dynamic and rewarding careers. With hands-on practical advice on working as part of a team, developing a visual vocabulary and managing a shoot, you'll be encouraged to experiment and develop your own original creative concepts. This revised edition includes a new chapter on the future of the industry, exploring how the role is changing and the stylist's position as an entrepreneur. There are also new interviews with professional stylists and 120 new images to demonstrate each technique.

Christian Dior was born in Granville, a seaside town on the coast of Normandy, France: while his family had hoped that he would become a diplomat, Dior preferred art. His preternatural talent resulted in him being hired by Robert Piquet in 1937, and subsequently worked alongside Pierre Balmain and Lucien Lelong. Dior was an instant sensation after the Second World War. His designs, which asserted femininity, were a strong rebuke to the utilitarian, unisex clothing of wartime and came to symbolise the 'New Look'. Dior had an extremely close relationship with his sister, Catherine - honouring her work during the war in the French Resistance with the popular perfume Miss Dior. She was his muse. The book features around 60 haute couture designs from the collections of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs along with an equivalent number of iconic pieces belonging to Dior Heritage (the house's own archives of original runway prototypes or garments ordered by clients), supplemented by fragrances and accessories. The items on display thus offer a panorama of Christian Dior's haute couture creations since 1947, always the epitome of modern elegance, with the selection taking as its unifying thread the fabric of dreams and the passing on of an aesthetic vision. Text in English and Arabic.