We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated.

Revealing the elaborate embroidery, intricate pleats and daring cuts that make up some of the 20th century's most beautiful garments, this book explores the specific techniques used by couturiers as tastes and textile technologies evolved. Work by designers such as Mariano Fortuny, Madeleine Vionnet, Paul Poiret, Hubert de Givenchy, Mary Quant, Yves Saint Laurent and Vivienne Westwood is rediscovered, and exquisite haute-couture pieces, from sequinned Chanel trouser suits and richly embroidered Schiaparelli jackets to striking Balenciaga creations and Dior evening gowns, are examined. Part of the 'Fashion in Detail' series, this updated edition features a revised introduction and list of designers followed by chapters dedicated to a particular technique. Each garment is illustrated through detailed photography and line drawings and is accompanied by a commentary by leading experts in textiles and fashion. An extraordinary exploration of the techniques used by couturiers in the construction of these exceptional garments, 20th-Century Fashion in Detail will delight all followers of fashion.

Perfectly attuned to the rising interest and market for men's style, The Parisian Gentleman presents the leading men's style-makers, from hidden ateliers and little-known studios to internationally renowned names such as shirtmakers Charvet, shoe-makers Berluti and recently revived trunkmakers Moynat. The stories of each house, and the creatives and craftsmen behind them, bring alive the clothes, capture fading traditions, and celebrate an unceasing dedication to quality. Hugo Jacomet personally knows many of the leaders of these sought-after marques, many of which are difficult to access, so the portrait he paints of each maker derives from first-hand knowledge. Impeccable photography, much of which was shot exclusively for this publication, provides an exquisite complement to the words. An essential addition to the well-dressed man's private wardrobe and collection.

This beautifully illustrated, full-colour history of costume has been produced by bestselling author John Peacock especially for children.With over 320 hand-drawn illustrations, and clearly written descriptions on every page, the book offers a broad survey of Western costume from ancient times through to the present day, and is sure to delight any child with an interest in fashion or history, as well as being an invaluable educational resource.

David Bowie's career as a pioneering artist spanned nearly 50 years and brought him international acclaim. He continues to be cited as a major influence on contemporary artists and designers working across the creative arts. Published to accompany the blockbuster international exhibition launched at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, this is the only book to be granted access to Bowie's personal archive of performance costume, ephemera and original design artwork by the artist, and brings it together to present a completely new perspective on his creative work and collaborations. The book traces his career from its beginnings in London, through the breakthroughs of Space Oddity and Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars, and on to his impact on the larger international tradition of twentieth-century avant-garde art. Essays by V&A curators on Bowie's London, image, and influence on the fashion world, are complemented by Howard Goodall on musicology; Camille Paglia on gender and decadence and Jon Savage on Bowie's relationship with William Burroughs and his fans. Also included is a discussion between Christopher Frayling, Philip Hoare and Mark Kermode, held at the V&A, of Bowie's cultural impact. Over 300 images include personal and performance photographs, costumes, lyric sheets giving an unique insight into Bowie's world.

"Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: 'I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen's reflection,' says Galliano. 'He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don't need to say anything - he can read my mind'." - From the essay by Suzy Menkes. Stephen Jones is one of the world's most talented and distinguished milliners. This exquisitely illustrated monograph is the first to examine his illustrious career and famous collaborations. Including photographs from private collections and museums, the book focuses on a variety of aspects of his work, from his collaborations with Boy George, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler to his work with photographers Bruce Weber and Nick Knight. Recent collections include: Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, Loewe, Christian Dior Haute Couture, Pret-a-porter, Ski & Baby collections, John Galliano, Comme des Garcons. His recent commissions include: Dita von Teese/Crazy Horse, Bryan Adams, Immodesty Blaize, Take That, Sex and the City 2, Perrier Jouet, Printemps, Ascot, Disneyland, Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss/Met Ball. "With her moulded felt cloche shadowing an eye and pinned with a tremblant diamond cow-parsley sprig, Nadja Auermann, slinking down the stairs of a crumbling Hotel Particulier in Paris for the John Galliano show, defined the fashion moment. Once again, Stephen Jones, millinery magician, had summoned up the spirit of the day. Jones is a deft conjurer, who can draw whimsy from a hat. Steeped in couture lore and craft, he nevertheless propels his art into the future with his ceaseless invention and thistledown touch. His genius is to enhance the mystery, allure, wit of the wearer - although a Jones hat might be a dramatic statement in itself, it will never overpower." - Hamish Bowles, Style Editor, Vogue USA

Yves Saint Laurent (1936 2008) is credited with reviving French haute couture in the 1960s, with making ready-to-wear reputable, and with using non-European cultural references. In addition to the kaleidoscope of images in this book, a coterie of tastemakers have supplied listings that encompass YSL s style inspirations (C is for Costumes, as exemplified by the Russian theme of the famed autumn-winter 1976 77 collection; T is for Tuxedo, which the designer initially referenced with his 1965 Le Smoking ) and important facets of his life (J is for Jardin Majorelle, the garden of the couturier s paradisiacal retreat in Marrakech; R is for Rive Gauche, the bohemian, chic neighbourhood of Paris where the YSL boutique is situated and also the name of the house s famous perfume launched in 1970). This distillation and celebration of the designer s life reveals the inner world of a twentieth-century master.

A stunning and comprehensive overview of the legendary house of Dior, from its founding in 1947 to today, featuring over 170 collections presented through original catwalk photography In spring 1947, Christian Dior presented the first collection of his newly founded eponymous fashion house. Soon dubbed the "New Look," it grabbed headlines all over the world and turned Dior into one of the most influential brands of all time. After the couturier's untimely death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took the helm of the fashion house before being succeeded by Marc Bohan, who was in turn replaced by Gianfranco Ferre in 1989. In 1996, John Galliano was appointed creative director, designing flamboyant collections for a decade, before the arrival of Raf Simon in 2012, who gave the house a newly imagined identity for the 21st century. Maria Grazia Chiuri's arrival in 2017 as the first woman designer in Dior's history also marks the seventieth anniversary of the "New Look." For the first time, every Dior haute couture collection is gathered here in a single, lavishly illustrated volume--providing a unique opportunity to chart the development of one of the world's most famous fashion brands and to discover rarely seen collections. Dior: The Complete Collections opens with a concise history of the house of Dior before exploring the collections themselves, which are organized chronologically. Each new "era" in Dior's history is inaugurated by a brief overview and biography of the new designer, while individual collections are introduced by a short text unveiling their influences and highlights and illustrated with carefully curated catwalk images. A rich reference section, including an extensive index, concludes this definitive publication.

Celebrated world-wide for his modern romantic jewels that push the boundaries of contemporary design, Shaun Leane has been responsible for creating a new genre of jewellery; precious, poetic, with a sense of eternity, yet relevant to today's world. Illustrated with a breath-taking combination of high fashion shots and detailed close-ups of the pieces themselves. Captured by photographers Nick Knight, Robert Fairer and Chris Moore, along with a dedicated photo essay of unseen backstage images recorded by Leane's close friend Ann Ray. Shaun Leane is introduced by the jeweller himself, then divided into three distinct parts: His heritage and training, by Joanna Hardy; reflections on Leane's famous collaboration with Alexander McQueen, by Claire Wilcox; and his modern classic commercial jewellery style, by Vivienne Becker. Altogether, this book provides a vital overview of an artist that will be of interest to anyone who follows the contemporary jewellery and fashion scene. This special edition is limited to just 250 copies. Enclosed in a slipcase, the book is accompanied by a print by photographer Rob Busling, signed by Shaun Leane.

From Bauhaus jewellery and West African textiles to contemporary portraiture and sculpture, this unique volume explores the rituals of making that underpin an artist's work. Accompanying an exhibition curated by the groundbreaking Nigerian-born British fashion designer Duro Olowu at Camden Art Centre, London, this book offers the opportunity to re-evaluate art and textiles from the nineteenth-century to the present. Olowu selects material by more than 60 artists from around the world, including rarely seen works by Anni Albers, Wangechi Mutu, Alice Neel, Chris Ofili and Irving Penn, and newer paintings by Lynette Yiadom-Boakye. By setting up unexpected dialogues between historic and contemporary artists working in a myriad of media - textile, painting, sculpture, photography and collage - Olowu reveals a shared preoccupation with themes of gender, race, beauty, sexuality and the body. The volume includes an in-depth conversation between Olowu and artist Glenn Ligon, along with texts by Jennifer Higgie and Shanay Jhaveri, that together highlight the intricate layers of history and place that influence the making of art.

Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history - as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their Chesterfield from their Ulster coat. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' menswear, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.

Charting the movements, developments and ideas that transformed the way women dress, this book gives a unique perspective on the history of twentieth-century fashion. From the invention of the bias cut and the stiletto heel to the designers who changed the way we think about clothes, the book is entertaining, intelligent and a visual feast.

'This ad is gender neutral', proclaimed a 2016 poster for the fashion brand Diesel; 'I resist definitions', announced a Calvin Klein ad in the same year, while a Louis Vuitton shoot featured Jaden Smith, son of actor Will Smith, wearing a skirt like a natural. Fashion magazines have printed countless features on the blurring of gender barriers, while brands including Yves Saint-Laurent, Gucci, Burberry, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana have all interpreted the concept 'girls will be boys and boys will be girls' in their own individual style. The previous turn of the century was as obsessed with androgyny as this one, as seen in the art of Edward Burne-Jones and Gustave Moreau, and the writings of Oscar Wilde and the mystic Josephin Peladan. From the late 19th to the early 21st century, the genders have blended: from Berlin in the 1920s to Hollywood of the 1930s with Garbo to Dietrich; from the 1940s Bright Young Things to the androgynous pop stars of the 1970s, and beyond. What do these variations on a theme have in common? What has caused the dizzying rise of androgyny? Why has this concept, a staple of ancient myth that was first discussed in Plato's Symposium, been revived today? Accompanied by a striking selection of contemporary photographs, Patrick Mauries presents a condensed cultural history of androgyny, drawing on the worlds of art and literature to give us a deeper understanding of the strange but timeless human drive to escape from defined categories.

Knowing how to sew will make you a better designer; you will learn what is possible, and be inspired by the creative possibilities of sewing techniques. In this book you will start by learning the basics: how to choose tools; how to choose and use thread; pressing techniques; and how to choose and use appropriate interfacings and linings. Basic techniques include seam and hem finishes, sewing buttons and buttonholes, working with knit fabrics and finishing details including bindings and spaghetti straps, tailored pockets and zips. Each lesson is illustrated with step-by-step photographs.

First came the Teds, the the Mods, Rockers, Hippies, Skinheads, Suedeheads and Punks. But by the late Seventies, a new youth fashion had appeared in Britain. Its adherents were often linked to violent football gangs, wore designer sportswear and made the bootboys of previous years look like the dinosaurs they were. They were known as scallies, Perry Booys, trendies and dressers. But the name that stuck was Casuals. And this grassroots phenomenon, largely ignored by the media, was to change the face of both British fashion and international style. Casuals recounts how the working-class fascination with sharp dressing and sartorial one-upmanship crystallized the often bitter rivalries of the hooligan crews and how their culture spread across the terraces, clubs and beyond. It is the definitive book for football, music and fashion obsessives alike.

How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarede's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

A favorite of Spike Lee, Drake, and the British boy band One Direction, the brand has its broadest appeal among the football fans of the English Premier League. Starting in the 1990s, Stone Island parkas appeared in the stands at Stoke City, Blackburn Rovers, and in cities in the north, migrating ever south to the Midlands, and ultimately to London teams such as Chelsea, Arsenal, and Tottenham. Famously worn by the likes of soccer guru Pep Guardiola, The Guardian notes that the brand entered into fashion folklore as a tough, working-class premium brand that could set you back a couple of months wages for a single jacket. More recently, the brand has experienced a surge in popularity, garnering an explosive following in the rap, hip-hop, and grime scenes rocked by the likes of Travis Scott, Vince Staples, Skepta, Kano, and Boy Better Know. Cementing its place among the masters of contemporary cool, Stone Island has ongoing collabs with Supreme and Nike. This is the first book to publish the complete history of the brand, from inception to modern day. Straight from the Stone Island archives, this volume is filled with stunning, never-before-seen images and texts, and it also takes a deep dive into the technical processes that this brand is known for.

A virtual pageantry of the many ways in which military styles inspire and influence contemporary fashion The transformation of military clothing into popular retail fashion has a long history. In fact, the designs of some of today's most popular styles, worn for the most peaceful purposes, actually originated in clothing intended for warfare. In a campaign to dress well, combat and battle rarely, if ever, enter the picture. This book celebrates the enduring appeal of military-inspired clothing and acts as a reference guide and source of inspiration for designers and fashion followers alike.

The Marabou Mule. The Chanel toe. Jackie O's pump. Marilyn's stiletto. And lotus shoes and fetish shoes, shoes made for coronations and inaugurations, Cinderella's slipper, shoes of tulle, brocade, rhinestone, python, fish scales, and feathers, and much, much, more, including the two-foot-high wooden chopines of the 16th century and their resurgence as the platform shoes of the 1960s and 1970s."Shoes," now with over 357,000 copies in print, is an obsessive, over-the-top extravaganza-chunky, full-color, and irresistible, it contains page after page of seductive photographs and information about women's shoes.Created for the woman who's a passionate shoe lover-and what woman isn't?--"Shoes" features over 1,000 glorious photographs, most of them taken for the book. Includes Footnotes (fascinating facts about shoes); Foot Soldiers (profiles of master shoemakers from David Little to Andrea Pfister); and The Shoe that Left an Imprint, focusing on one shoe that changed history-remember Courrage's futuristic go-go boot? "Shoes" is, as they say, to die for.

Christian Dior famously noted that "the real proof of an elegant woman is what is on her feet." From the surprisingly sexy boots hiding under Victorian crinolines to the glittering T-strap heels worn by flappers dancing the Charleston, a woman's shoe choice has long been far more than a mundane practicality. Indeed, a beautifully shaped shoe can be a statement of wealth, style, or sexuality - and often all at once. This petite volume presents 250 eye-catching examples from the 17th century to the present, including many of today's top designers such as Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Roger Vivier, and Nicholas Kirkwood. Fashion historian Raissa Bretana introduces each new era with a concise overview of the period's fashionable styles and innovations. A must for shoe collectors and a delight for any fashionista, this Tiny Folio (TM) will inspire you to put your best foot forward.

The Time of Discretion is an intimate, slow and relational time. It is also an artistic project. Besides Italy, it has been developed in the remote areas on the southeast border of the Gobi Desert and in the Guizhou Province (South China), in search of rituals, ancient textile practices or together as one. The research documented here crosses experience and representation, dramatically compares East and West, advancing a dense theoretical scenario in relation to globalisation processes.

The area of recycling and upcycling is a rich and growing source of innovative design in the fashion and accessories industries. In a fast-fashion world of throw-away clothing, it is the ultimate expression of the slow-fashion movement, with each piece individually conceived and crafted from scratch, using different materials each time. ReFashioned features 46 international designers who work with recycled materials and discarded garments, reinvigorating them with new life and value. The result is beautiful and desirable clothing and accessories that also make an important statement to the fashion world about its wasteful and exploitative practices.

Footwear design has become the new dream career, and this book is the first guide to show the key skills and tips behind the trade, for both budding designers and anyone interested in shoes. Since Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik became household names, footwear design is now one of the most lucrative strands of any fashion brand. Aki Choklat explores the footwear design process, explaining the differences between the anatomy of the foot and the anatomy of a shoe, showing how one constrains the other, before moving onto the research and design development processes and the art of creating a complete collection. The all-important presentation is then discussed, including illustrative techniques, before the book ends with advice for those wishing to pursue a career in footwear design. Illustrated throughout with inspirational sketchbooks detailing the design process and specially commissioned images of cutting-edge shoe design, the book also contains case studies featuring an array of international shoe designers.

Highly Commended, Society for Renaissance Studies Biennial Book Prize 2022 In sixteenth and seventeenth-century England, the female silhouette underwent a dramatic change. This very structured form, created using garments called bodies and farthingales, existed in various extremes in Western Europe and beyond, in the form of stays, corsets, hoop petticoats and crinolines, right up until the twentieth century. With a nuanced approach that incorporates a stunning array of visual and written sources and drawing on transdisciplinary methodologies, Shaping Femininity explores the relationship between material culture and femininity by examining the lives of a wide range of women, from queens to courtiers, farmer's wives and servants, uncovering their lost voices and experiences. It reorients discussions about female foundation garments in English and wider European history, arguing that these objects of material culture began to shape and define changing notions of the feminine bodily ideal, social status, sexuality and modesty in the early modern period, influencing enduring Western notions of femininity. Beautifully illustrated in full colour throughout, Shaping Femininity is the first large-scale exploration of the materiality, production, consumption and meanings of women's foundation garments in sixteenth and seventeenth-century England. It offers a fascinating insight into dress and fashion in the early modern period, and offers much of value to all those interested in the history of early modern women and gender, material culture and consumption, and the history of the body, as well as curators and reconstructors.

The most personal account of the life and work of legendary designer Coco Chanel ever told. Coco Chanel's life and work have been recounted often in print and film-everything except the details of her most private self: her fondness for symbolism and poetry, the men she loved, her family, and in particular her nephew Andre Palasse, whom she raised like a son. His daughter Gabrielle Palasse-Labrunie--goddaughter to both Chanel and the Duke of Westminster and Chanel's only direct descendant--enjoyed a close-knit relationship with the designer for more than forty years. In this biography, she opens her doors and shares personal memories of her great-aunt.
This work--divided into five chronological parts, including Chanel's dark periods--plunges the reader into the private world of Chanel, offering intimate insight. Photographs of Chanel's personal effects, many of which have never before been seen or published, include presents from her great love Boy Capel, furniture, favorite jewelry, talismans, clothes, family photographs, rare documents, correspondence, and books with personal inscriptions.
In "Intimate Chanel," Palasse-Labrunie discloses all that was "important" to her great-aunt and recounts their private conversations, unveiling who her "Auntie Coco" really was: a Chanel who was very different from her public persona.