For decades, NGOs targeting world hunger focused on ensuring
that adequate quantities of food were being sent to those in need.
In the 1990s, the international food policy community turned its
focus to the "hidden hunger" of micronutrient deficiencies, a
problem that resulted in two scientific solutions: fortification,
the addition of nutrients to processed foods, and biofortification,
the modification of crops to produce more nutritious yields. This
hidden hunger was presented as a scientific problem to be solved by
"experts" and scientifically engineered smart foods rather than
through local knowledge, which was deemed unscientific and, hence,
irrelevant.
In Hidden Hunger, Aya Hirata Kimura explores this recent
emphasis on micronutrients and smart foods within the international
development community and, in particular, how the voices of women
were silenced despite their expertise in food purchasing and
preparation. Kimura grounds her analysis in case studies of
attempts to enrich and market three basic foods rice, wheat flour,
and baby food in Indonesia. She shows the power of nutritionism and
how its technical focus enhanced the power of corporations as a
government partner while restricting public participation in the
making of policy for public health and food. She also analyzes the
role of advertising to promote fortified foodstuffs and traces the
history of Golden Rice, a crop genetically engineered to alleviate
vitamin A deficiencies. Situating the recent turn to smart food in
Indonesia and elsewhere as part of a long history of technical
attempts to solve the Third World food problem, Kimura deftly
analyzes the intersection of scientific expertise, market forces,
and gendered knowledge to illuminate how hidden hunger ultimately
defined women as victims rather than as active agents."
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