From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist
for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff
Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party.
The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was
one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending
their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between
mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands
morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait
began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater
and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and
clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze
and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine.
The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of
rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf
culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the
stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been
no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if
any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody.
Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence
of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of
overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups.
Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up,
sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as
the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry
to outsiders.
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