At age 40, Greg and Heidi Rhodes kept a rash promise to each other
made 17 years earlier, when the naive, mortgage-free expats swore
to return to China with their own children. Arriving back in the
Middle Kingdom in 2005, they were surprised to find their former
home city, Chengdu, unrecognizable. Familiar landmarks and
expectations had been swept away by China's rushing tide of
progress, replaced by glass skyscrapers, McDonald's restaurants,
and a frenetic scramble to get ahead.
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