Books > Arts & Architecture > History of art / art & design styles > 1800 to 1900
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Mariano Fortuny - His Life and Work (Hardcover)
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Mariano Fortuny - His Life and Work (Hardcover)
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Mariano Fortuny was a visionary designer and artist - best known
today for his rich, innovative textiles and opulent dress designs,
he was also an accomplished painter, etcher and photographer, as
well as a designer of theatrical sets, costumes and lighting,
revolutionising the stagecraft of the late nineteenth and early
twentieth centuries with his ambitious lighting designs. Fortuny's
varied and sumptuous output has acquired almost mythological status
in the canon of early twentieth-century Aestheticism. Guillermo de
Osma sets out to provide a complete and authoritative account of
his life and work.Born in 1871, into a famous family of artists,
critics, architects and craftsmen, Fortuny benefitted from an
eclectic artistic education, and inherited his father's passion for
collecting, as well as his interest in the art and artefacts of the
Arabic world. He supplemented this early immersion in the art world
with his own 'Grand Tour' of Europe's cultural centres, including
Paris and Bayreuth, where he was introduced to the work of composer
Richard Wagner. Fortuny eventually settled in Venice and, from his
studio in the Palazzo Orfei, began to create work in the burgeoning
tradition of Aestheticism, rejecting the hierarchies and barriers
between the arts and creating 2D artwork as well as furniture,
textiles and stage designs for pioneering opera and ballet
productions. The 'Delphos robe' is perhaps the quintessential
Fortuny creation - a dress as work of art, with its origins in
progressive theatrical costume design, that went on to be worn by
avant-garde figures including Isadora Duncan and was even
immortalized by Proust in 'Remembrance of Things Past'. Hand-dyed
and pleated to a patented design, this figure-skimming robe was
considered shocking on its first appearance in 1907 but examples
still appear on red carpets today. Bringing together craftsmanship,
liberal principles of 'rational dress' and a deep immersion in the
dress traditions of the Arabic and Classical worlds, it is an
iconic garment that transcends fashion.
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