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Mario Testino. Undressed (English, French, German, Paperback)
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Mario Testino. Undressed (English, French, German, Paperback)
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Mario Testino's Undressed removes various layers. Coinciding with
an exhibition conceived exclusively for the Helmut Newton
Foundation in Berlin, this intimate series explores the notion of
undressing in photography as much as it lays Testino's archive
bare, probing beyond the photographer's established public image to
reveal a deeper understanding of his practice and oeuvre. The 50
featured photographs center on the naked body, alternately
exploring and pushing the traditions and boundaries between sex,
gender identity, and fashion. Honoring the influence of Helmut
Newton, the images become abstracted body landscapes, the
protagonists appearing as mere form, a torso, even a statue. A
special highlight are previously unseen photographs shot in the
Testino studio, in which an exuberant atmosphere intermingles with
the implicit frisson of nudity and where playfully amorous dynamics
never slip into the obscene or pornographic. Testino's lineup
ranges from supermodel protagonists, such as Kate Moss and Amber
Valletta, to anonymous, androgynous men; from individual portraits
to group photos. We see many intimate moments, some caught
candidly, some consciously orchestrated, such as a young man
shaving a woman's upper pubic hair in a luxurious bathroom.
Following in the tradition of SIR, many of the images may be seen
to redefine masculine paradigms in the same way that Newton created
his own brand of female beauty. As emotions, aesthetics, and bodies
meet, Testino grants new insight into his world-famous work. The
images are accompanied by an introduction from curator Matthias
Harder, a candid conversation piece with Carine Roitfeld, as well
as an essay from psychiatrist and psychologist Manfred Spitzer who
offers a neuroscientific perspective on our visual perception of
bodies and beauty.
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