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Helmut Newton (1920-2004) always showed a healthy disdain for the easy or predictable, so it's no surprise that the SUMO was an irresistible project. The idea of a book the size of a private exhibition, with spectacular images reproduced to state-of-the-art origination and printing standards, emerged from an open, experimental dialogue between photographer and publisher. With the SUMO weighing in-boxed and shrink-wrapped-at 35.4 kg (just under 80 pounds), Newton created a landmark book that stood head and shoulders above anything previously attempted, both in terms of conceptual extravagance and technical specifications. Published in an edition of 10,000 signed and numbered copies, the SUMO sold out soon after publication and quickly multiplied its value. It now features in numerous collections around the world, including New York's Museum of Modern Art. The legendary copy number one, signed by more than 100 of the book's featured celebrities, broke the record for the most expensive book published in the 20th century, sold at an auction in Berlin on April 6, 2000 for 620,000 German marks-about 317,000 euros. Now, this XL edition celebrates 20 years of SUMO, the result of a project conceived by Helmut Newton some years ago. Revised by his wife June, the volume gathers 464 images and a new booklet that takes us through the making-of this publishing venture-a spectacular tribute to the larger-than-life Helmut Newton, now in a friendly format. Images (c) The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography
The fashion photography of Helmut Newton. Helmut Newton once said, "Some people's photography is an art. Mine is not. If they happen to be exhibited in a gallery or a museum, that's fine. But that's not why I do them. I'm a gun for hire" ("Newsweek", 02/02/04). This prosaic proclamation from one of the 20th century's most celebrated photographers is not a little shocking, but nonetheless firmly positions Newton as the no-frills image-maker that he was. His work is so powerful, so striking, that it defies categorization. In refusing to call his work "art," Newton leaves us free to do so, and judging from the amount of museum and gallery shows that have featured his work, it is clear that the option has been widely exercised. This book brings together a selection of Newton's fashion catalog work from as early as 1962 through 2003 and his last editorial photographs for US and Italian Vogue - all work he made as a "gun for hire." The client list includes: BiBA, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Thierry Mugler, Blumarine, "Italian Vogue", "US Vogue", "German Vogue", Villeroy & Boch, Bikini Calendar for "Sportsmagazine", "Absolute Vodka".
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