For Somerville this was a kind of pilgrimage, a journey unlike any
he had undertaken in 20 years of travel-writing. It was an
expedition where he traded the usual comforts and certainties for a
real physical and mental challenge, with no mobile phone or other
technological aids. The only plan for his journey was to begin in
the East at Easter and finish at Whitsun in the extreme West, at
the Monastery of the Golden Step, whose gold step, legend says, can
only be seen by those who have purged themselves into purity.
During his 300-mile walk, he tackled four mountain ranges, high
slopes and the numerous gorges of the West. Speaking only basic
Greek and trying to follow a poorly way-marked path, he had to rely
on his own instincts when climbing mountain passes and crossing
high plateaux, farming and shepherding country, where villages are
scarce and each night's accommodation was uncertain. He saw a Crete
few ever encounter.
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