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A Treatise on the Art of Bread-Making was published in London in
1805, the work of a medical man, little known for any other books,
save a couple of pamphlets on gout and sore throats and fever,
which he observed in his native Uxbridge in Middlesex. His book on
bread is by no means medical, but rather an entertaining and
instructive tour through the whole process of bread-making from
growing and harvesting the wheat, to developing satisfactory
yeasts, running an effective bakehouse and investigating a whole
variety of recipes for breads made not only from wheat, but also
other grains, potatoes and rice. The book ends with a resume of
current law relating to the sale of bread, and an appendix
containing the witness statements to a parliamentary committee on
baking in 1804. The literature of bread-making in Britain is by no
means as full as that on the continent of Europe. Because baking
was a trade craft, practised by people barely on the verge of
literacy, most instructions and technical lore were transmitted by
word of mouth from master to apprentice down through the years.
These instructions were deemed 'secrets' and the very idea of
publishing them in a printed book would have been anathema. For
this reason, there are surprisingly few recipes in domestic cookery
books of the period, the authors reckoning that cooks would leave
it to the bakers. The literature did not really kick off until the
Victorian period, and only rose to a flood in the last quarter of
the nineteenth century. After Edlin, the next person to tackle the
subject was a trained baker in 1828; the value, therefore, of this
first book is especially great, as no others exist.
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