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POP! Design, Culture, Fashion 1955-1976 explores the impact of
music, art and personality on the development of the design and
fashion of the times. Published to accompany an exhibition at the
Fashion and Textile Museum, London, July - October 2012. Pop!
Design, Culture, Fashion 1956-1976 covers all aspects of Pop design
in Britain and America, from early rock 'n' roll to punk. It looks
at record covers and packaging designs by Pop artists such as Andy
Warhol, Peter Blake and Richard Hamilton, and the work of fashion
designers such as Mary Quant, Barbara Hulanicki from Biba, Vivienne
Westwood and John Stephen of Carnaby Street fame, as well as their
contemporaries in America such as Betsey Johnson of Paraphernalia.
Pop graphics are also covered, from the psychedelic posters of Alan
Aldridge, and the design collective 'Hapdash and the Coloured Coat'
to rock posters from San Francisco and the west coast of America.
There are also reproductions of rarely-seen underground magazines
such as Oz, Gandalf's Garden, l' Actuel and the International
Times. The ephemeral nature of much of Pop design is explored -
from paper furniture and 'throwaway' paper dresses, to
longer-lasting trends such as Union Jack clothing, metal badges,
machine-embroidered denim, printed t-shirts and tin badges. The
book also looks at the work of 'Them', an influential group of
'Baroque Pop' designers who coalesced around Zandra Rhodes in the
early 70s, and ends with the anti-design of punk fashion by
Vivienne Westwood, and the self-proclaimed 'horrible by design'
punk graphics of Jamie Reid. Whilst there have been innumerable
books on the Swinging Sixties, and on Pop Art, this is the first
book to look at Pop design over a twenty year span, and to examine
the interconnected nature of so many elements of the phenomenon
such as books and magazines, music, film, fashion and graphic art.
It is also unique in that the illustrations are not sourced from
the usual magazine archive images, but are photographs of the
artefacts themselves, from Elton John's waistcoat, embroidered with
suns, stars and rainbows, to Twiggy coathangers, psychedelic book
covers and every teenager's must-have item: 'Glo Glo boots for Go
Go girls'. Geoff Rayner and Richard Chamberlain are experts in
post-war design, specialising in the history of textiles. They have
curated a number of exhibitions, and written (with Annamarie
Stapleton) several books most recently Artists' Textiles
1945-76ISBN: 9781851496297 (published by Antique Collectors' Club,
2012).
Czech-born Jacqueline Groag (1903-1985) was an incredibly adept
textile designer who trained at the Kunstgewerbeschule in Vienna
during the 1920s under Franz Cisek and Josef Hoffmann. She produced
textile designs for the Wiener Werkstatte and some of the Parisian
fashion houses while she lived in Vienna. She married the architect
and interior designer Jacques Groag - they made a successful team.
However, in 1939 they were compelled to emigrate to the UK.
Jacqueline Groag continued to produce textile design work for the
British market, and after the war her designs could be seen at
numerous outlets such as David Whitehead, Grafton, John Lewis and
Liberty. For more than 20 years she worked as a freelance designer,
supplying designs for carpets, greetings cards, laminates,
plastics, textiles, wallpapers and wrapping papers to many firms
including Bond-Worth Carpets, British European Airways, the British
Overseas Airways Corporation, Dunlop, ICI and London Transport. In
1984 she became a Fellow of the Faculty of Royal Designers for
Industry. She was a prodigious and successful designer to the end
of her life. Along with Lucienne Day and Marian Mahler she is seen
as central to a new and exciting development in textile design in
the 1950s. Together their work is featured in a major exhibition
'Designing Women' which begins in Colorado Springs in September
2008. This is a ground breaking publication on the work of this
highly important and influential designer.
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