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Margaret Fuller (1810-1850), a pioneering gender theorist,
transcendentalist, journalist, and literary critic, was one of the
most well-known and highly regarded feminist intellectuals of
nineteenth-century America. With her contemporaries Ralph Waldo
Emerson and Henry David Thoreau, she was one of the predominant
writers of the Transcendentalist movement, and she aligned herself
in both her public and private life with the European revolutionary
fervor of the 1840s. She traveled to Italy as a foreign
correspondent for the New York Tribune to cover the nascent
revolutions, pursuing the transnational ideal awakened in her youth
by a classical education in European languages and a Romantic
curiosity about other cultures, traditions, and identities.
This volume is a collaboration of international scholars who, from
varied fields and approaches, assess Fuller's genius and character.
Treating the last several years of Margaret Fuller's short life,
these essays offer a truly international discussion of Fuller's
unique cultural, political, and personal achievements. From the
origins and articulations of Fuller's cosmopolitanism to her
examination of "the woman question," and from her fascination with
the European "other" to her candid perception of imperial America
from abroad, they ponder what such an extraordinary woman meant to
America, and also to Italy and Europe, during her lifetime and
continuing to the present.
This final volume in the four-volume series Habits of Being shows
how the dialectic between everyday appearance and outrageous acts
is mediated through clothing and accessories. It considers how
clothing and accessories can move quickly from the ordinary to the
extravagant. Employing many different approaches, these essays
explore how wearing an object-a crown, a flower, an earring, a
corsage, a veil, even a length of material-can stray beyond the
bounds of the body on which it is placed into the discrepant
territory of flagrantly excessive public signs of love, status,
honor, prestige, power, desire, and display. The varied
contributions of scholars (historians, ethnographers, literary and
film critics) and artists (photographers, sculptors, writers,
weavers, and embroiderers) take up the threads of these forays into
history, psyche, and aesthetics in surprising and useful ways. With
examples from around the world, contributors address how the simple
action of ornamenting the body, even with something as common as a
button, are open to elaborate interpretations-which themselves
offer new understandings of human behavior and artistic endeavor.
When our "habits of being" receive close scrutiny, they seem
anything but habitual. Contributors: Mariapia Bobbiobi; Camilla
Cattarulla, U of Rome Three; Paola Colaiacomo, Sapienza, U of Rome;
Maria Damon, Pratt Institute of Art; Joanne B. Eicher, U of
Minnesota; Maria Giulia Fabi, U of Ferrara; Margherita di Fazio;
Adeena Karasick, Fordham U; Tarrah Krajnak, Pitzer College;
Charlotte Nekola, William Paterson U; Victoria R. Pass, Maryland
Institute College of Art; Amanda Salvioni, U of Macerata; Maria
Anita Stefanelli, U of Rome Three.
Clothing may not make the man (or woman), but it helps. How
clothing as a vestige and artifact and as transmitter of identity
moves from one use to another, from one fantasy to another fad,
from one literary source to another visual one: these are the
concerns of the essays in this volume. The second in a four-part
series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of
clothing, dress, and accessories, Exchanging Clothes focuses on the
concept of transnational "circulation and exchange"-not only the
global exchange of material commodities across time and space but
also of the ideas, images, colors, and textures related to fashion.
Essays examine the parade of heroes past, from Homer and Virgil to
Dante and Ariosto, wearing armor or nothing; the social power of a
tie or of a safety pin sprung from punk fashion to the red carpet;
a Midwestern thrift store, from cheap labor to cheap purchase, as a
microcosm of global circulation; and lesbian pulp fiction as
how-to-dress manuals. Whether looking at Kate Chopin's silk
stockings, Nellie Bly's capacious bag, Audrey Hepburn's
cross-Atlantic travels, rings in James Merrill's poetry, or
feminine ornaments in Algeria, these essays offer an ever-expanding
vision of how fashion moves through culture and the economy,
reflecting and determining identity at every stage and turn of the
transaction. Contributors: Nello Barile, IULM U, Milan; Vittoria C.
Caratozzolo, Sapienza, U of Rome; Alisia Grace Chase, SUNY,
Brockport; Chafika Dib-Marouf, Jules Verne U, Picardie; Anne
Hollander; Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia); Andrea Mariani, Gabriele
d'Annunzio U, Chieti-Pescara; Katalin Medvedev, U of Georgia; Laura
Montani; Karen Reimer; Cristina Scatamacchia, U of Perugia.
The first in the four-part series "Habits of Being," charting the
social, cultural, and political expression of clothing as seen on
the street and in museums, in films and literature, and in
advertisements and magazines, this volume features a close-up focus
on accessories--the shoe, the hat, the necklace--intimately
connected to the body.
These essays, most of which have appeared in the cutting-edge
Italian series "Abito e Identita," offer new theoretical and
historical takes on the role of clothing, dress, and accessories in
the construction of the modern subject. With contributions by
leading scholars in art history, semiotics, literary and film
studies, history and fashion studies, and with additional writings
by psychoanalysts, textile artists, and fashion designers from
Europe and America, readers will encounter a dizzying array of
ideas about the modern body and the ways in which we dress
it.
From perspectives on the "model body" to Sonia Delaunay's designs,
from Fascist-era Spanish women's prescribed ways of dressing to
Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck's anklet to Salvatore
Ferragamo's sandals, from a poet's tiara to a worker's cap, from
the scarlet letter to the yellow star: "Accessorizing the Body"
imparts startling insights into how much the most modest accessory
might reveal.
Contributors: Zsofia Ban, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta,
U of California, Los Angeles; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome
"La Sapienza"; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome "La Sapienza"; Maria
Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome Three; Micol
Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of New Mexico; Jeffrey
C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of
Rome Three; Franca Zoccoli.
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