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This new edited collection assembles academic essays and
intellectual activism equally next to visual essays and artistic
interventions and proposes a different concept for fashion research
that eschews the traditional logic of academic fashion studies. It
features acclaimed designers, artists, curators and theorists whose
work investigates the multi-faceted debates on the rise of
practice-based research in fashion. The book sets out to explore
current issues in fashion research with a particular focus on both
methodology and expansion of the field to encompass overlooked
voices and narratives. It has a particular concern with the
relationships between theory and practice and with how knowledge is
created and disseminated in fashion studies. It is an excellent and
really valuable contribution to the field at a point both when
fashion studies is expanding and when the fashion industry is at a
crucial point of change. Some of the contributions were originally
presented at a symposium hosted by the Austrian Center for Fashion
Research ‘TALKSHOW: The politics of practice-based fashion
research’ at Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, curated by Wally
Salner. The symposium brought together a group of fashion scholars,
designers, educators and practitioners to explore critical
contemporary fashion (research) practices, and to investigate
critical fashion knowledge between theory and practice, beyond
assumed disciplinary and epistemological boundaries. Many
contributions in this volume were initially presented at that
symposium, while others are testimonies of international debates
that were part of the research activities of the Austrian Center
for Fashion Research, a research project funded by the Austrian
Federal Ministry of Science Research and Economy, led by Elke
Gaugele. The book is structured into three sections: Fashion
Knowledge, Practice-Based Fashion Research, and Sites of Fashion
and Politics. Contributions look at new forms of fashion
knowledge that are forming with and along shifting fashion
practices, practice-based fashion research, and sheds light on
different sites and entanglements of fashion and politics in
distinctive contemporary and historical moments of de/colonization,
anti/racism, and anti/globalization. Elke Gaugele is cultural
anthropologist and professor of fashion, styles and contextual
design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Austria. Monica
Titton is a sociologist, fashion theorist and senior scientist at
the fashion design department of the University of Applied Arts
Vienna, Austria. Other contributions are from Elke Bippus, Astrid
Engl, Jojo Gronostay, Ruby Hoette, Bianca Koczan, Priska Morger,
NCCFN, Wally Salner, Andreas Spiegl, José Teunissen, Lara Torres,
Carol Tulloch and Maria Ziegelböck Readers will be academics,
practitioners, designers, artists, curators, museums, theoretical
scholars, lecturers, practice-based researchers, students and
practitioners at all levels in the fields of fashion, textile, art
and design. This new book with its original focus on practice-based
research will be useful for a general and academic readership
alike, and to all those working within the field of fashion
studies, including those with a theoretical focus, fashion
practitioners and those working within innovative pockets of the
fashion industry.Â
Der Einfuhrungsband zu Kultur- und Sozialtheorien im Kunstfeld
bildet den 'State of the Art' gegenwartiger Kunstausbildung in
seiner transdisziplinaren und methodologischen Vielfalt ab. Die
disziplinare Palette reicht dabei von traditionsreichen Fachern wie
Philosophie und Kunstgeschichte uber Kultur- und Kunstsoziologie,
Architektur- und Medientheorie, bis hin zu den Studies der
Gegenwart: Queer Studies, Visual Studies, Transcultural Studies,
Fashion Studies u.a. Daruber hinaus werden facherubergreifende
theoretische Ansatze und angewandte Praxisfelder vorgestellt.
This new edited collection assembles academic essays and
intellectual activism equally next to visual essays and artistic
interventions and proposes a different concept for fashion research
that eschews the traditional logic of academic fashion studies. It
features acclaimed designers, artists, curators and theorists whose
work investigates the multi-faceted debates on the rise of
practice-based research in fashion. The book sets out to explore
current issues in fashion research with a particular focus on both
methodology and expansion of the field to encompass overlooked
voices and narratives. It has a particular concern with the
relationships between theory and practice and with how knowledge is
created and disseminated in fashion studies. It is an excellent and
really valuable contribution to the field at a point both when
fashion studies is expanding and when the fashion industry is at a
crucial point of change. Some of the contributions were originally
presented at a symposium hosted by the Austrian Center for Fashion
Research ‘TALKSHOW: The politics of practice-based fashion
research’ at Vienna’s Museum of Applied Arts, curated by Wally
Salner. The symposium brought together a group of fashion scholars,
designers, educators and practitioners to explore critical
contemporary fashion (research) practices, and to investigate
critical fashion knowledge between theory and practice, beyond
assumed disciplinary and epistemological boundaries. Many
contributions in this volume were initially presented at that
symposium, while others are testimonies of international debates
that were part of the research activities of the Austrian Center
for Fashion Research, a research project funded by the Austrian
Federal Ministry of Science Research and Economy, led by Elke
Gaugele. The book is structured into three sections: Fashion
Knowledge, Practice-Based Fashion Research, and Sites of Fashion
and Politics. Contributions look at new forms of fashion
knowledge that are forming with and along shifting fashion
practices, practice-based fashion research, and sheds light on
different sites and entanglements of fashion and politics in
distinctive contemporary and historical moments of de/colonization,
anti/racism, and anti/globalization. Elke Gaugele is cultural
anthropologist and professor of fashion, styles and contextual
design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Austria. Monica
Titton is a sociologist, fashion theorist and senior scientist at
the fashion design department of the University of Applied Arts
Vienna, Austria. Other contributions are from Elke Bippus, Astrid
Engl, Jojo Gronostay, Ruby Hoette, Bianca Koczan, Priska Morger,
NCCFN, Wally Salner, Andreas Spiegl, José Teunissen, Lara Torres,
Carol Tulloch and Maria Ziegelböck Readers will be academics,
practitioners, designers, artists, curators, museums, theoretical
scholars, lecturers, practice-based researchers, students and
practitioners at all levels in the fields of fashion, textile, art
and design. This new book with its original focus on practice-based
research will be useful for a general and academic readership
alike, and to all those working within the field of fashion
studies, including those with a theoretical focus, fashion
practitioners and those working within innovative pockets of the
fashion industry.Â
Advertising creates dream worlds, yet always simultaneously bears
witness to its era. Both these tendencies are exemplified in
fashion posters. Moving beyond the latest modish trends and beauty
ideals, fashion posters reflect moral codes and social conditions.
In particular, they pander to the longing to escape routine
everyday life, for these posters suggest that it is possible to
attain a completely new identity simply by opting for a different
garment or style. Androgynous models and less normative images of
men and women in the advertising industry mark the dawn of a new
era that entails constantly balancing aspirations to individuality
against a sense of collective belonging. Fashion posters from past
and present are lifestyle propositions; they tell stories, seduce
and shock. Playing with convention and provocation, bodies are
sometimes lavishly veiled and disguised, sometimes sensually
staged. At times consumers are only indirectly encouraged to shop.
A button or a coat collar as a pars pro toto illustrate product
quality in historical posters. A new, somewhat controversial
approach to fashion advertising emerges in Benetton campaigns from
the early 1990s. Overtly erotic ostentation contrasts with poetic
allusions that are for example the hallmark of highly aesthetic
Japanese fashion posters. En Vogue brings together fashion
advertising spanning roughly a hundred years and deploying myriad
different PR strategies, in each case reflecting the cultures and
periods in which it was created.
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