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Tongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry
tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the
world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile by
anthropologists and art historians alike, little is known about its
history. Providing a unique insight into Polynesian material
culture, this book explores barkcloth's rich cultural history, and
argues that its manufacture, decoration and use are vehicles of
creativity and female agency. Based on twelve years of extensive
ethnographic and archival research, the book uncovers stories of
ceremony, gender, the senses, religion and nationhood, from the
17th century up to the present-day. Placing the materiality of
textiles at the heart of Tongan culture, Veys reveals not only how
barkcloth was and continues to be made, but also how it defines
what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study to explore the
place of barkcloth in the European imagination, she examines
international museum collections of Tongan barkcloth, from the UK
and Italy to Switzerland and the USA, addressing the bias of the
European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings
of the cloth. A nuanced narrative of past and present barkcloth
manufacture, designs and use, Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth
demonstrates the importance of the textile to both historical and
contemporary Polynesian culture.
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