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Description and discussion of over two thousand brooches, rings,
buckles, pendants, buttons, purses and other accessories found in
archaeological digs in London, and dating from the period
1150-1450. Brooches, rings, buckles, pendants, buttons, purses and
other accessories were part of everyday dress in the middle ages.
Over two thousand such items dating from the period 1150-1450 are
described and discussed here, all found inrecent archaeological
excavations in London - then as now one of western Europe's most
cosmopolitan cities, its social and economic activity compounded by
the waterside bustle of the Thames. These finds constitute the
mostextensive and varied group of such accessories yet recovered in
Britain, and their close dating and the scientific analysis carried
out on them have been highly revealing. Important results published
here for the first time show,for example, the popularity of shoddy,
mass-produced items in base metals during the high middle ages and
enable researchers to identify the varied products of rival
traditions of manufacture mentioned in historical sources.Anyone
needing accurate information on period costume will welcome this
book, which will appeal to the general reader interested in costume
and design, as well as to archaeologists and historians. THE
AUTHORS are members of staff of the Museum of London.
The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing
from a range of disciplines. The studies collected here range
through art, artifacts, documentary text, and poetry, addressing
both real and symbolic functions of dress and textiles. John Block
Friedman breaks new ground with his article on clothing for pets
and other animals, while Grzegorz Pac compares depictions of sacred
and royal female dress and evaluates attempts to link them
together. Jonathan C. Cooper describes the clothing of scholars in
Scotland's three pre-Reformation universities and the effects of
the Reformation upon it. Camilla Luise Dahl examines references to
women's garments in probates and what they reveal about early
modern fashions. Megan Cavell focuses on the treatment of textiles
associated with the Holy of Holies in Old English biblical poetry.
Frances Pritchard examines the iconography, heraldry, and
inscriptions on a worn and repaired set of embroidered
fifteenth-century orphreys to determine their origin.Finally,
Thomas M. Izbicki summarizes evidence for the choice of white linen
for the altar and the responsibilities of priests for keeping it
clean and in good repair.
A model of clarity... It provides absolutely essential reference
material for the dress historian and archaeologist, for the early
textile specialist, and those interested in the tools and equipment
used. TOOL AND TRADES HISTORY SOCIETY NEWSLETTER [Linda Woolley,
curator of early and medieval textiles and dress, V&A Museum]
Among the most evocative items to be discovered by archaeologists
are the scraps of silk and wool and other fabrics that signal so
eloquently their owner's status and concerns. Such clothing and
textile finds have figured prominently in excavations of medieval
sites in London in the past two decades; they have included
knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets and elaborately patterned
oriental, Islamic and Italian fabrics, which reveal for the first
time the wide range of cloths available to medieval Londoners;
there are beautifully made buttons, and buttonholes and edgings
which display superb craftsmanship and a high level of needlework
skills; the way that clothes were cut and sewncan be studied in
detail. This highly readable account will be of wide general
interest; dress historians and archaeologists will also find a
wealth of new insights into the fashions, clothing and textile
industries of medieval England and Europe. Contents include: The
Excavations, Techniques used in Textile Production, Wool Textiles,
Goathair Textiles, Linen Textiles, Silk Textiles, Mixed Cloths,
Narrow Wares, Sewing Techniques and Tailoring, Dyes. THE AUTHORS
Past and present staff of the Museum of London.
New research into the techniques of tablet weaving, sprang,
braiding, knotting and lace is presented in this lavishly
illustrated volume written by leading specialists from Austria,
Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK and
USA. Drawing inspiration from the pioneering work of Peter
Collingwood, this publication explores aspects of these craft
skills in the prehistoric, Roman and medieval world through
scientific, object-based analysis and 'research through making'.
Chapters include the growth of patterned tablet weaving for
trimming garments in prehistoric Central Europe; recently
identified styles of headdress worn in the Roman Rhineland and
pre-Islamic Egypt; Viking-age Dublin as a production centre for
tablet-woven bands; a new interpretation of the weaving technique
used to make luxurious gold bands in the twelfth to late thirteenth
centuries; and the development out of plaiting of bobbin lace
borders in gold and silver threads from the fifteenth to early
seventeenth centuries. Practical experiments test methods of hand
spinning and the production of figure-hugging hose in ancient
Greece and Renaissance Italy. A typology of braid and knotting
structures in late medieval Europe is also set out for the first
time. Diagrams, illustrations and photographs enrich each chapter
with a wealth of visual source material. The work is the outcome of
recent discoveries of archaeological textile finds from excavations
as well as fresh examination of material recovered in the past, or
preserved in treasuries. Early textiles form an increasingly
popular subject of interest and this publication, which is a
landmark in the study of various specialised textile techniques,
aims to provide the reader with a better understanding of these
virtuoso craft skills in antiquity.
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