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'I have given my whole life to the mountains. Born at the foot of
the Alps, I have been a ski champion, a professional guide, an
amateur of the greatest climbs in the Alps and a member of eight
expeditions to the Andes and the Himalaya. If the word has any
meaning at all, I am a mountaineer.' So Lionel Terray begins
Conquistadors of the Useless - not with arrogance, but with typical
commitment. One of the most colourful characters of the
mountaineering world, his writing is true to his uncompromising and
jubilant love for the mountains. Terray was one of the greatest
alpinists of his time, and his autobiography is one of the finest
and most important mountaineering books ever written. Climbing with
legends Gaston Rebuffat, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, Terray
made first ascents in the Alps, Alaska, the Andes and the Himalaya.
He was at the centre of global mountaineering at a time when Europe
was emerging from the shadow of the Second World War, and he came
out a hero. Conquistadors of the Useless tells of his wartime
escapades, of life as an Alpine mountain guide, and of his climbs -
including the second ascent of the Eiger North Face and his
involvement in the first ever ascent of an 8,000-metre peak,
Annapurna. His tales capture the energy of French post-war
optimism, a time when France needed to reassert herself and when
climbing triumphs were more valued than at any other time in
history. Terray's death, in the Vercors, robbed mountaineering of
one of its most passionate and far-sighted figures. His energy, so
obvious in Conquistadors of the Useless, will inspire for
generations to come. A mountaineering classic.
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