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In the summer of 1883 Belgian travel writer Jules Leclercq spent
ten days on horseback in Yellowstone, the world's first national
park, exploring myriad natural wonders: astonishing geysers,
majestic waterfalls, the vast lake, and the breathtaking canyon. He
also recorded the considerable human activity, including the
rampant vandalism. Leclercq's account of his travels is itself a
small marvel blending natural history, firsthand impressions,
scientific lore, and anecdote. Along with his observations on the
park's long-rumoured fountains of boiling water and mountains of
glass, Leclercq describes camping near geysers, washing clothes in
a bubbling hot spring, and meeting such diverse characters as local
guides and tourists from the United States and Europe. Notables
including former president Ulysses S. Grant and then-president
Chester A. Arthur were also in the park that summer to inaugurate
the newly completed leg of the Northern Pacific Railroad. A
sensation in Europe, the book was never published in English. This
deft translation at long last makes available to English-speaking
readers a masterpiece of western American travel writing that is a
fascinating historical document in its own right.
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