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The Uncrowned King of Mont Blanc by Peter Foster is the biography
of scientist and mountaineer Thomas Graham Brown, whose
encyclopaedic knowledge of the mountain earned him the soubriquet,
and whose achievements in the Alps and Greater Ranges place him at
the forefront of British mountaineering between the two world wars.
Born in Edinburgh in 1882, Graham Brown first pursued a career in
the sciences as a physiologist - his exacting father demanding the
highest standards - and the results of his research, largely
unrecognised at the time, now underpin current understanding of the
nervous control of movement in animals and man. His mountaineering
career began in earnest after the First World War. From rock
climbing in the Lake District he progressed to guided climbs in the
Alps, where in 1927 he was fatefully introduced to Frank Smythe
with whom he made the groundbreaking first ascents of the
Sentinelle Rouge and the Route Major on the Brenva Face of Mont
Blanc. This resulted in an obsession with the mountain and a feud
between the pair that smouldered and flared for twenty years.
Ambitious, determined and uncompromising in his views, he never
left others feeling neutral: Geoffrey Winthrop Young thought him `a
vicious lunatic', yet Charles Houston felt closer to Graham Brown
`than almost anyone else I know'. Graham Brown's life was one of
turbulence in his career, relationships and in the mountains,
whether on expeditions to Mount Foraker, Nanda Devi and Masherbrum,
or most frequently, the Alps. Peter Foster has drawn upon diaries,
letters and extensive archival research that illuminate the highs
and lows of Graham Brown's scientific and climbing careers, and
explores the imbalance between the significance of his achievements
and the lack of recognition he received. But, above all, The
Uncrowned King of Mont Blanc allows one to hear Graham Brown's
voice: querulous, opinionated and, to the discomfort of his many
adversaries, almost always right.
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