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The response from the jewelry industry to a campaign for ethically
sourced gold as a case study in the power of business in global
environmental politics. Gold mining can be a dirty business. It
creates immense amounts of toxic materials that are difficult to
dispose of. Mines are often developed without community consent,
and working conditions for miners can be poor. Income from gold has
funded wars. And consumers buy wedding rings and gold chains not
knowing about any of this. In Dirty Gold, Michael Bloomfield shows
what happened when Earthworks, a small Washington-based NGO,
launched a campaign for ethically sourced gold in the consumer
jewelry market, targeting Tiffany and other major firms. The
unfolding of the campaign and its effect on the jewelry industry
offer a lesson in the growing influence of business in global
environmental politics. Earthworks planned a "shame" campaign,
aimed at the companies' brands and reputations, betting that firms
like Tiffany would not want to be associated with pollution,
violence, and exploitation. As it happened, Tiffany contacted
Earthworks before they could launch the campaign; the company was
already looking for partners in finding ethically sourced gold.
Bloomfield examines the responses of three companies to "No Dirty
Gold" activism: Tiffany, Wal-Mart, and Brilliant Earth, a small
company selling ethical jewelry. He finds they offer a case study
in how firms respond to activist pressure and what happens when
businesses participate in such private governance schemes as the
"Golden Rules" and the "Conflict-Free Gold Standard." Taking a
firm-level view, Bloomfield examines the different opportunities
for and constraints on corporate political mobilization within the
industry.
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