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What sight is more beautiful than a high-energy beach facing lines
of rolling white breakers? What battleground is more ferocious than
where waves and sand meet? What environment could be more exciting
to study than this sandy interface between sea and land? And yet
how much do we know about sandy beaches? Open sandy beaches are
amongst the most neglected fields of scientific study in the
coastal environment. This situation exists despite their great
extent along most temperate and tropical coastlines and their value
as recreational areas and buffer zones against the sea. The
traditional oceanographer does not venture into the surf zone while
the terrestrial ecologist stops short at the high water mark. Only
a few coastal engineers have grappled with the problem of sand and
sediment movement as it influences their construction of harbours
and pipelines. The marine biologist on the other hand has regarded
estuaries, coral reefs and rocky shores, obviously teeming with
life, as more fruitful areas for study than the apparently poor
animal life on sandy beaches. Sandy beaches have therefore tended
to become a scientific no man's land. Over the last decade this
situation has begun to improve. Recent work on high-energy beaches
has revealed that they may in fact be rich and productive and
fertile areas for study. It has even been suggested that beaches
and their adjacent surf zones may constitute viable marine
ecosystems.
What sight is more beautiful than a high-energy beach facing lines
of rolling white breakers? What battleground is more ferocious than
where waves and sand meet? What environment could be more exciting
to study than this sandy interface between sea and land? And yet
how much do we know about sandy beaches? Open sandy beaches are
amongst the most neglected fields of scientific study in the
coastal environment. This situation exists despite their great
extent along most temperate and tropical coastlines and their value
as recreational areas and buffer zones against the sea. The
traditional oceanographer does not venture into the surf zone while
the terrestrial ecologist stops short at the high water mark. Only
a few coastal engineers have grappled with the problem of sand and
sediment movement as it influences their construction of harbours
and pipelines. The marine biologist on the other hand has regarded
estuaries, coral reefs and rocky shores, obviously teeming with
life, as more fruitful areas for study than the apparently poor
animal life on sandy beaches. Sandy beaches have therefore tended
to become a scientific no man's land. Over the last decade this
situation has begun to improve. Recent work on high-energy beaches
has revealed that they may in fact be rich and productive and
fertile areas for study. It has even been suggested that beaches
and their adjacent surf zones may constitute viable marine
ecosystems.
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