This encyclopaedic reference covers all aspects of modern and traditional perfumery. Each entry includes information on botanical identity, origin, use, history, folklore and examples of the perfumes in which it is a constituent. There are similar entries for modern synthetic ingredients. Detailed descriptions of 200 top commercial fragrances of the present day include their main ingredients, their creators and biographies of those who designed their bottles. The differents types and families of perfumes are listed, together with information on how to choose, use and keep a perfume. There is also a section on home perfume making, which includes an appendix of ancient and modern perfume recipes and formulas.

The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order. Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture.

From insidious murder weapons to blaze-igniting crinolines, clothing has been the cause of death, disease and madness throughout history, by accident and design. Clothing is designed to protect, shield and comfort us, yet lurking amongst seemingly innocuous garments we find hats laced with mercury, frocks laden with arsenic and literally 'drop-dead gorgeous' gowns. Fabulously gory and gruesome, Fashion Victims takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the lethal history of women's, men's and children's dress, in myth and reality. Drawing upon surviving fashion objects and numerous visual and textual sources, encompassing louse-ridden military uniforms, accounts of the fiery deaths of Oscar Wilde's half-sisters and dancer Isadora Duncan's accidental strangulation by her long, fringed scarf; the book explores how garments have tormented those who made and wore them, and harmed animals and the environment in the process. Vividly chronicling evidence from Greek mythology to the present day, Matthews David puts everyday apparel under the microscope and unpicks the dark side of fashion. Lavishly illustrated with over 100 images, Fashion Victims is a remarkable resource for everyone from scholars and students to fashion enthusiasts.

In the first comprehensive study of Roman ancestor masks in English, Harriet Flower explains the reasons behind the use of wax masks in the commemoration of politically prominent family members by the elite society of Rome. Broadening her approach from the purely art historical, Flower traces the functional evolution of ancestor masks, from their first appearance in the third century BC to their last mention in the sixth century AD, through the examination of literary sources in both prose and verse, legal texts, epigraphy, archaeology, numismatics, and art. It is by putting these masks, which were worn by actors at the funerals of the deceased, into their legal, social, and political context that Flower is able to elucidate their central position in the media of the time and their special meaning as symbols of power and prestige.

Bebop back a little, to post-war America, crinoline, and big flowers with one of the most widely published authors on vintage fashions. Predicting doubling values, she's advising that collectors get a jump-start now, snatching up those snug-bodiced, full-skirted dresses, sheath gowns, clear plastic evening shoes, peddle pushers, Capri pants, fun flowered and feathered hats, Grace Kelly-style formals, flattering bathing suits, and even paper dresses. To help with the hunt, there's an up-to-date value guide for couture designers, along with a forecast of what fashions from the 1970s forward might be considered collectible in the future. This gorgeous volume is packed with more than 500 color photos of authentic day and evening clothes and accessories never before found in fashion books on the era. Read the story behind the fashions, including advice from period magazines that detail "The New Look," the politics behind clothes, and an unparalleled look into the ready-to-wear industry that swept the world of fashion in the 1950s-60s. Sound information is provided for collecting and caring for more than 500 of the most popular, ready-to-wear designers.

Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.

To have a colour named after you is one of the highest accolades in fashion. Valentino Garavani is one such icon. Since the founding of the House of Valentino in 1950s Rome, Garavani has been celebrated for the desirability of his designs. His stunning gowns in his signature Valentino Red have been sought after by the jet set for over half a century, and still signify the very epitome of red carpet glamour. Little Book of Valentino tells the story of this most elegant of brands. Beginning with Garavani's initiation into the world of haute couture in 1950s Paris, progressing through the glittering social scene of 1970s New York and Valentino's domination of Hollywood from the 1980s to the present day, images of every dazzling era are beautifully reproduced alongside text exploring the significance of each stunning piece.

"I have always been inspired by what was happening on the street - and anyway, I couldn't afford the high fashion price tags." - Caroline Baker "Featuring an array of - now - infamous covers and high fashion editorials crafted by Baker, readers are encouraged to bask in the success of her trail-blazing tale and indulge in the history of streetwear's rise to the helm of the fashion industry." - Wonderland "A fantastic delve into the story of fashion styling straight from the lips (and visual archive) of the lady who invented it all, Caroline Baker" - Navaz Batliwalla, disneyrollergirl Caroline Baker is the antidote to high fashion. As the legendary fashion editor of Nova magazine in the 1960s and '70s, her style was quite literally cutting-edge (she famously chopped up clothes to achieve her desired looks). She is credited with challenging the status quo of the industry and society at large, and introducing street fashion to the mass market. Stylist-of-choice for the most dynamic female designers on the scene - Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood - Caroline has continued her trajectory as a fashion provocateur. Her work has appeared on the pages of Vogue, Tatler and Cosmopolitan as well as The Face and i-D - and unsurprisingly, a new generation of style-setters is now looking to Baker's back catalogue for inspiration. This book offers an in-depth overview of Baker's work, expertly curated and considered by Iain R. Webb. It is divided into sections that highlight specific recurring themes and tropes - such as Punk Rock, DIY, Utility and Sportswear. These ideas have defined Baker's evolving sartorial vocabulary over six decades, and set a template for street fashion that endures to this day. Accompanied with personal commentary from Baker herself and specially written contributions by Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett, this is the definitive guide to Caroline Baker and her influence on fashion.

Although it can be difficult to think of fashion in anything other than a contemporary context, as a concept it is hardly new. Costume historians trace the birth of fashion back to the thirteenth century and writings on fashion date back as early as the sixteenth century when Michel de Montaigne pondered its origins, thereby setting in motion a chain of inquiry that has continued to intrigue writers for centuries. This key text reprints classic fashion writings, all of which have had a profound if perhaps untrumpeted impact on our understanding and approach to modern day dress - from the psychology of clothes through to collective fashion trends. Why do we wear clothes? What do they say about our self-awareness and body image? How can we 'fashion' new identities through what we wear? Seminal fashion statements by Montaigne, William Hazlitt, Herbert Spencer, Thorstein B. Veblen, Adam Smith, Herbert Blumer, and Georg Simmel answer these questions and many more. Full of vital fashion treasures that have often been ignored, this book fills a major gap in the history of the discipline and will serve as an essential teaching text for years to come.

Containing the stories of four legendary fashion houses, this collectable box holds a beautiful set of covetable style guides. Exploring four designers who exemplify elegance and high couture, these little books of fashion follow these brands from their creation, moving through their style evolutions, the key looks that define them and their impact on the fashion landscape today. Discover the story behind the red sole with the Little Book of Louboutin, the process of creating the world's most iconic bags with Louis Vuitton, the craftsmanship behind the androgynous Le Smoking in Yves Saint Laurent and the genius behind the most exquisite couture with Schiaparelli. Featuring hundreds of exquisite images and text by best-selling authors, these definitive guides to luxury style are the perfect gift for any fashion lover.

'Don't be into trends. Don't make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress...' - Gianni Versace

From Elizabeth Hurley's safety pin dress to Jennifer Lopez's plunging green gown, Versace has always been a brand at the cutting edge of fashion. With a foot firmly placed in pop culture, Versace is beloved by fashionistas and celebrities alike, providing iconic moments like Lil Nas X's gold armour at the 2021 Met Gala, many of Elton John's eclectic tour outfits and the gown worn by Lady Diana in her posthumous tribute in Harper's Bazaar.

Exquisitely illustrated and expertly written, this book explores the story of the brand, from its creation in 1978 by Gianni Versace to its iconic status today. Featuring images of red-carpet moments, key pieces and stunning catwalk shows, this is a fabulous collection of all things Versace.

"Gay style actually sets trends. It's what straight people take fashion from."--Tony WoodcockFrom the New Edwardians and muscle boys to Radical Drag and Genderfuck, gay men's dress has had a profound impact on fashion. However, it is easy to forget that, with few exceptions, gay men earlier in the century took great pains to conceal their sexual identity. Men such as Quentin Crisp, while highly influential, were far from the norm. Most gay men resorted to a number of subtle dress codes to identify themselves to other gay men -- from Oscar Wilde's famous green carnation, which was still being worn in the 1930s, through to suede shoes. Beginning with a look at the subcultural world of gay men in the early part of this century -- particularly in New York and London -- this fascinating book analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream men's fashion. The importance of dress choice to the formation of sexual identity is highlighted, as is gay influence on punk and the fashion industry as a whole. The rise of new dress choices in the wake of gay liberation is analyzed with particular emphasis on the masculinization of gay dress. The importance of the body to gay culture is addressed, from the physique magazines of the 1950s, through to tattooing and body piercing, and their origins in the S&M scene.Anyone interested in gay culture or the history of dress will find this book to be essential reading.

'Elegant and multi-focal. Glorious!' Simon Garfield The humble pair of glasses might just be one the world's greatest inventions, allowing millions to see a world that might otherwise appear a blur. And yet how much do many of us even really think about these things perched on the ends of our noses? In this eye-opening history Travis Elborough traces the fascinating true story of spectacles: from their inception as primitive visual aids to monkish scribes right through to today's designer eyewear and the augmented reality of Google Glass. And taking in along the way such delights as lorgnettes, monocles, pince-nez, tortoise-shell 'Windsors' and Ray Ban aviator shades. Peering into early theories about how the eye worked, he considers the theological and philosophical arguments about the limits of perception by Greek thinkers, Roman statesmen and Arab scholars. There are encounters with ingenious medieval Italian glassmakers, myopic Renaissance rulers and spectacle-makers and opticians, brilliant, mad, bad and dangerous to know, in the Londons of Samuel Pepys, Dr Johnson and Sherlock Holmes. We learn how eyeglasses were the making of the silent movie star Harold Lloyd and the rock n roller Buddy Holly and helped liberate an exasperated John Lennon from Beatlemania. Get hip to horn-rims with Dizzy Gillespie and Michael Caine And see girls in glasses through the lenses of the crime fiction by Dorothy L Sayers and Raymond Chandler and the full-screen figure of Marilyn Monroe. Through the Looking Glasses is about vision and the need for humanity to see clearly, and where the impulse to improve our eyesight has led us. The society of the spectacle may finally be upon us . . . but how much of it do we really see?

An inspiration to countless designers and the stomping ground of fashion's in-crowd, London is the capital of subculture. From Mary Quant to Alexander McQueen, from punks to goths, and from Twiggy to Naomi Campbell, Little Book of London Style is the beautifully illustrated guide to the essential brands, trends and people that make up the style DNA of this unique city.

What does men's fashion say about contemporary masculinity? How do these notions operate in an increasingly digitized world? To answer these questions, author Joshua M. Bluteau combines theoretical analysis with vibrant narrative, exploring men's fashion in the online world of social media as well as the offline worlds of retail, production, and the catwalk. Is it time to reassess notions of masculinity? How do we construct ourselves in the online world, and what are the dangers of doing so? From the ateliers of London to the digital landscape of Instagram, Dressing Up re-examines the ways men dress, and the ways men post.

A fascinating look into the world of men's neckwear, chronicling the style, fabric, and design changes that evolved in the second half of the 20th century. The book features nearly 400 color photographs along with a current price guide. From the slim ties of the late 1950s and early 1960s to the wide and wild Kipper ties of the mid-60s was a dramatic shift. By the late 1970s men's fashion returned to a normal state and designer labels entered the fashion scene in full force. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, retro styles became apparent as manufacturers reproduced abstract and geometric styles of the 1940s and 1950s. As the 1990s progressed, new collectible ties began flooding the market . Collecting men's ties can be extremely entertaining and a real treasure hunt. Whether it be a contemporary example or one worn decades ago, a tie is wearable art!

This book presents a nostalgic look at baby and children's wear from the Victorian Era to the first half of the 20th century. It chronicles the changes in children's fashions over the decades and centuries, from the popularity of tartans and plaids in the 1880s, to Knickerbocker suits and box pleated tunics, introduced by the Victorians, to the ever popular and enduring sailor suit. Over 300 stunning, full color photographs showcase the many wonderful and unusual examples of vintage and antique children's clothing, along with detailed descriptions and pricing. From exquisite christening gowns made of cotton and silk, with beautiful embroidery and lace trimmings, to the poignancy of a baby's mourning outfit, this book is delightful and informative in its photography and historic content. It is a must have for anyone interested in the field of fashion and vintage clothing, as well as antiques and collectibles.

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines and with a special focus on reconstruction. The third volume of this pioneering series explores the manufacture and trade of textiles and their practical, fashionable, and symbolic uses. Papers include in-depth studies and cross-genre scholarship representing such fields associal history, economics, art history, archaeology and literature, as well as the reconstruction of textile-making techniques. They range over England, Flanders, France, Germany, and Spain from the seventh to the sixteenth centuries, and address such topics as soft furnishings, ecclesiastical vestments, the economics of the wool trade, the making and use of narrow wares, symbolic reference to courtly dress in a religious text, and aristocratic children'sclothing. Also included are reviews of recent books on dress and textile topics. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on Western European dress, specializing in the depiction and interpretation of clothing by artists and historians. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at The University of Manchester and author of Dress in Anglo-Saxon England; she is the Director of an ARHC-fundedproject on cloth and clothing terminology in medieval Britain. CONTRIBUTORS: ELIZABETH COATSWORTH, SARAH LARRATT KEEFER, SUSAN LEIBACHER WARD, JOHN H. MUNRO, JOHN OLDLAN, LESLEY K. TWOMEY, ELIZABETH BENNS, LOIS SWALES, HEATHER BLATT, MELANIE SCHUESSLER

In "western" cultures, some people have chosen a dreadlock hairstyle, despite many in mainstream society looking at it in a negative light. This book deals with contradictions surrounding the hairstyle such as often representing a protest against the prevailing right-wing political systems, yet also emphasizing the white person's power to appropriate any style. Based on interviews and close observations in social media, the book offers insights into the culture(s) surrounding dreadlocks and ultimately interprets the phenomenon as a postmodern form of individuality.

A "Washington Post Book World" Best Book of the Year
When her carriage first crossed over from her native Austria into France, fourteen-year-old Marie Antoinette was taken out, stripped naked before an entourage, and dressed in French attire to please the court of her new king. For a short while, the young girl played the part.
But by the time she took the throne, everything had changed. In "Queen of Fashion, " Caroline Weber tells of the radical restyling that transformed the young queen into an icon and shaped the future of the nation. With her riding gear, her white furs, her pouf hairstyles, and her intricate ballroom disguises, Marie Antoinette came to embody--gloriously and tragically--all the extravagance of the monarchy.

Through an examination of the experience of transsexuals, this book enhances understanding of how gender can and does function in powerful, complex and subtle ways. The author, who has herself been surgically reassigned, has conducted extensive interviews with transsexuals from many walks of life. Her personal experiences, which inform this book, have given her an access to her subjects that others would likely be denied. While highlighting how the gender identity of transsexuals relates to hormonal and surgical changes in the body as well as to changes in dress, the book investigates the pressures and motivations to conform to expected gender roles, and the ways in which these are affected by social, educational, and professional status. Differences in the experiences of those who change from male to female and those who change from female to male are also examined.
Sex reassignment has been the focus of considerable media attention recently, as increasing numbers of people feel able to talk frankly about their personal experiences with gender dysphoria. Strides with medical technology have given transsexuals new opportunities in their lives. This book provides unique insights into how these changes are seen by those people most affected them.

Skin, Culture and Psychoanalysis sets out to query the intersection of cultural and psychical meanings of skin in the contemporary moment as skin responds to new (and old) pressures and articulations. A variety of topics are herein addressed including the symbolic dominance of white skin, racialization, tattooing, cosmetic surgery, fabric skins, skin eruptions, second skins, the skin in self-harm, and skin as a site of psychic repair. The authors engage an array of objects and approaches from the clinical domain, literary fiction, television, film, video art, photography, fashion design, and poetry. In doing so, they highlight the situation of skin as a socially and culturally mediated exterior simultaneously negotiated at the interior or psychical level. This collection locates skin at the centre of inquiry, rather than as a jumping-off point from which to explore 'deeper' or 'thicker' issues, which tends to happen when skin is treated synecdochically as a stand-in for the body itself. Here, skin is a cultural object, and a psychical object, in its own right.

Textiles connect a variety of practices and traditions, ranging from the refined couture garments of Parisian fashion to the high-tech filaments strong enough to hoist a satellite into space. High-performance fabrics are being reconceived as immersive webs, structural networks and information exchanges, and their ability to interface with technology is changing how the human body is experienced and how the urban environment is built. Today, textiles reveal their capacity to transform our world more than any other material. "Textile Futures" highlights recent works from key practitioners and examines the changing role of textiles. Recent developments present new technical possibilities that are beginning to redefine textiles as a uniquely multidisciplinary field of innovation and research. This book is an important tool for any textile practitioner, fashion designer, architect, interior designer or student designer interested in following new developments in the field of textiles, seeking new sustainable sources, or just eager to discover new works that reveal the potency of textiles as an ultramaterial.

This edited volume on radical dress reforms in East Asia takes a fresh look at the symbols and languages of modernity in dress and body. Dress reform movements around the turn of the twentieth century in the region have received little critical attention as a multicultural discourse of labor, body, gender identity, colonialism, and government authority. With contributions by leading experts of costume/textile history of China, Korea, and Japan, this book presents up-to-date scholarship using diverse methodologies in costume history, history of consumption, and international trade. Thematically organized into sections exploring the garments and uniforms, accessories, fabrics, and fashion styles of Asia, this edited volume offers case studies for students and scholars in an ever-expanding field of material culture including, but not limited to, economic history, visual culture, art history, history of journalism, and popular culture. Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia stimulates further research on the impact of modernity and imperialism in neglected areas such as military uniform, school uniform, women's accessories, hairstyles, and textile trade.

Illustrated with fabulous images from Vogue's archive, Vogue: The Gown is the ultimate book for fashion lovers. In Vogue: The Gown, Jo Ellison has gathered more than 300 images and grouped them into five thematic chapters: Classical, Fantasy, Drama, Decorative and Modern. The book provides an evocative celebration of almost a century of fashion history, showcasing the work of photographers including Tim Walker, Nick Knight, David Bailey, Herb Ritts, Norman Parkinson, Corinne Day, Cecil Beaton and Horst. Something about a gown's intrinsic construction, unashamed opulence and sheer feminine romance ignites in us the promise of fairy-tale adventure and unparalleled glamour. The magical gowns featured here give full reign to those fantasies, be they the sublime yet simple classical creations of Madame Gres, the heavenly bodies sculpted by Azzedine Alaia, the lean, seductive lines of a Deco-inspired silhouette or huge tulle poufs fit for a princess. Now available in a new format with a luxurious real cloth cover, at a more pocket-friendly price of GBP30, this is essential reading for fashionistas everywhere.