This book documents the rise (and rise) of fashion design in China. Told through the stories of three generations of designers: those born in the 20s and 30s, who were active before the establishment of the People's Republic of China in 1949; those born in the 1950s and 60s, when fashion in China was isolated from the rest of the world and the wearing of "Mao suits" became obligatory; and those born in the 1970s and later, who are now attempting to integrate China in to the global fashion industry, not only as producers of clothing but as designers and marketers as well.
Chinese fashion in the past half-century is a fascinating case study, given that the country began in penury, isolation, and political correctness, went through a phase of militant anti-fashion ideology, and is now rapidly developing internationally-minded, and eager to challenge the world in all fields of endeavour. Written by an insider, this book provides a fascinating survey based on the personal, professional and creative experiences of the most influential Chinese fashion designers. As such it will be welcomed by all students of contemporary fashion and design.

Children's printed handkerchiefs have a rich two hundred year history going all the way back to America's beginnings. Along with delighting generations of children with their colorful designs, these highly collectible items have also served a social and educational role. The earliest reflected Puritan influences, tending to be instructional, religious, and moralistic in nature. As industrial growth and prosperity changed, the very nature of childhood, sports and games, nursery rhymes, and fairy tales became more common subject matter. By the early twentieth century, storybook and comic strip characters began to appear, soon joined by such popular figures of mass culture as Mickey Mouse, Raggedy Ann, Davy Crockett, and Howdy Doody.

During the era of the French revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses case studies from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales.

"I have always been inspired by what was happening on the street - and anyway, I couldn't afford the high fashion price tags." - Caroline Baker "Featuring an array of - now - infamous covers and high fashion editorials crafted by Baker, readers are encouraged to bask in the success of her trail-blazing tale and indulge in the history of streetwear's rise to the helm of the fashion industry." - Wonderland "A fantastic delve into the story of fashion styling straight from the lips (and visual archive) of the lady who invented it all, Caroline Baker" - Navaz Batliwalla, disneyrollergirl Caroline Baker is the antidote to high fashion. As the legendary fashion editor of Nova magazine in the 1960s and '70s, her style was quite literally cutting-edge (she famously chopped up clothes to achieve her desired looks). She is credited with challenging the status quo of the industry and society at large, and introducing street fashion to the mass market. Stylist-of-choice for the most dynamic female designers on the scene - Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood - Caroline has continued her trajectory as a fashion provocateur. Her work has appeared on the pages of Vogue, Tatler and Cosmopolitan as well as The Face and i-D - and unsurprisingly, a new generation of style-setters is now looking to Baker's back catalogue for inspiration. This book offers an in-depth overview of Baker's work, expertly curated and considered by Iain R. Webb. It is divided into sections that highlight specific recurring themes and tropes - such as Punk Rock, DIY, Utility and Sportswear. These ideas have defined Baker's evolving sartorial vocabulary over six decades, and set a template for street fashion that endures to this day. Accompanied with personal commentary from Baker herself and specially written contributions by Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett, this is the definitive guide to Caroline Baker and her influence on fashion.

This encyclopaedic reference covers all aspects of modern and traditional perfumery. Each entry includes information on botanical identity, origin, use, history, folklore and examples of the perfumes in which it is a constituent. There are similar entries for modern synthetic ingredients. Detailed descriptions of 200 top commercial fragrances of the present day include their main ingredients, their creators and biographies of those who designed their bottles. The differents types and families of perfumes are listed, together with information on how to choose, use and keep a perfume. There is also a section on home perfume making, which includes an appendix of ancient and modern perfume recipes and formulas.

The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values. How is hair arranged? Is it left long or cut short? How often is it washed? Do men and women treat their hair differently and what does this tell us about gender? This stimulating book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties. His investigation of hairstyles and fashion inevitably leads him to a fascinating discussion of important historical issues: the 'true' nature of Woman; the genesis and democratization of fashion; and popular attitudes towards hygiene. With his engaging literary style Long invites us to think about consumer habits and technology, notions of fashion and cleanliness, and changing ideals of femininity and the social order. Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture.

Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.

Bebop back a little, to post-war America, crinoline, and big flowers with one of the most widely published authors on vintage fashions. Predicting doubling values, she's advising that collectors get a jump-start now, snatching up those snug-bodiced, full-skirted dresses, sheath gowns, clear plastic evening shoes, peddle pushers, Capri pants, fun flowered and feathered hats, Grace Kelly-style formals, flattering bathing suits, and even paper dresses. To help with the hunt, there's an up-to-date value guide for couture designers, along with a forecast of what fashions from the 1970s forward might be considered collectible in the future. This gorgeous volume is packed with more than 500 color photos of authentic day and evening clothes and accessories never before found in fashion books on the era. Read the story behind the fashions, including advice from period magazines that detail "The New Look," the politics behind clothes, and an unparalleled look into the ready-to-wear industry that swept the world of fashion in the 1950s-60s. Sound information is provided for collecting and caring for more than 500 of the most popular, ready-to-wear designers.

Although it can be difficult to think of fashion in anything other than a contemporary context, as a concept it is hardly new. Costume historians trace the birth of fashion back to the thirteenth century and writings on fashion date back as early as the sixteenth century when Michel de Montaigne pondered its origins, thereby setting in motion a chain of inquiry that has continued to intrigue writers for centuries. This key text reprints classic fashion writings, all of which have had a profound if perhaps untrumpeted impact on our understanding and approach to modern day dress - from the psychology of clothes through to collective fashion trends. Why do we wear clothes? What do they say about our self-awareness and body image? How can we 'fashion' new identities through what we wear? Seminal fashion statements by Montaigne, William Hazlitt, Herbert Spencer, Thorstein B. Veblen, Adam Smith, Herbert Blumer, and Georg Simmel answer these questions and many more. Full of vital fashion treasures that have often been ignored, this book fills a major gap in the history of the discipline and will serve as an essential teaching text for years to come.

This book examines the ways in which luxury fashion brands use their heritage in their digital storytelling and marketing. With chapters from authors in China and Macau (PRC), India, Romania, Turkey, the United Kingdom, and the United States, covering British, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indian, Italian, and Turkish brands, this truly global collection is the first book of its kind devoted solely to the emerging study of digital heritage storytelling. This method of reaching potential consumers and perpetuating brand identity is a hugely important factor in the marketing of luxury brands and has yet to be studied comprehensively. The book will be of interest to scholars working in fashion studies, fashion history, design history, design studies, digital humanities, and fashion marketing.

"Gay style actually sets trends. It's what straight people take fashion from."--Tony WoodcockFrom the New Edwardians and muscle boys to Radical Drag and Genderfuck, gay men's dress has had a profound impact on fashion. However, it is easy to forget that, with few exceptions, gay men earlier in the century took great pains to conceal their sexual identity. Men such as Quentin Crisp, while highly influential, were far from the norm. Most gay men resorted to a number of subtle dress codes to identify themselves to other gay men -- from Oscar Wilde's famous green carnation, which was still being worn in the 1930s, through to suede shoes. Beginning with a look at the subcultural world of gay men in the early part of this century -- particularly in New York and London -- this fascinating book analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream men's fashion. The importance of dress choice to the formation of sexual identity is highlighted, as is gay influence on punk and the fashion industry as a whole. The rise of new dress choices in the wake of gay liberation is analyzed with particular emphasis on the masculinization of gay dress. The importance of the body to gay culture is addressed, from the physique magazines of the 1950s, through to tattooing and body piercing, and their origins in the S&M scene.Anyone interested in gay culture or the history of dress will find this book to be essential reading.

To have a colour named after you is one of the highest accolades in fashion. Valentino Garavani is one such icon. Since the founding of the House of Valentino in 1950s Rome, Garavani has been celebrated for the desirability of his designs. His stunning gowns in his signature Valentino Red have been sought after by the jet set for over half a century, and still signify the very epitome of red carpet glamour. Little Book of Valentino tells the story of this most elegant of brands. Beginning with Garavani's initiation into the world of haute couture in 1950s Paris, progressing through the glittering social scene of 1970s New York and Valentino's domination of Hollywood from the 1980s to the present day, images of every dazzling era are beautifully reproduced alongside text exploring the significance of each stunning piece.

Goth has become a permanent fixture in mainstream culture, but there are a lot of misconceptions about the people who choose to embrace the lifestyle. "Gothic Charm School" is the ultimate, fully-illustrated handbook for day-to-day Gothic living and an 'insider's look' at the subcluture for people who are curious about, but not necessarily part of the subculture. Jillian Venters, aka 'The Lady of the Manners', was a fairly spooky and morbid child, with parents who never objected to her eccentric taste in clothing. Her father raised her to be his revenge upon the universe, while her mother rolled her eyes a lot and frequently had an air of amused patience. When the Lady of the Manners discovered the existence of the whole Gothic subculture, she clapped her hands with glee. Eventually the Lady of the Manners came to realise that excellent clothes were not, contrary to popular opinion, a substitute for excellent manners, and that being a Black-Clad-Freak didn't have to mean being depressed and snarly. (Witty, sarcastic, and possibly a touch cynical, yes. Mean-spirited, sullen, and rude, no.) Since then, the Lady of the Manners has spent a not-inconsiderable amount of time trying to gently persuade others in her chosen subculture that being Goth and being polite is much, much more subversive than just wearing black t-shirts with 'edgy' sayings on them.

What does men's fashion say about contemporary masculinity? How do these notions operate in an increasingly digitized world? To answer these questions, author Joshua M. Bluteau combines theoretical analysis with vibrant narrative, exploring men's fashion in the online world of social media as well as the offline worlds of retail, production, and the catwalk. Is it time to reassess notions of masculinity? How do we construct ourselves in the online world, and what are the dangers of doing so? From the ateliers of London to the digital landscape of Instagram, Dressing Up re-examines the ways men dress, and the ways men post.

Discover Scotland with this authoritative guide to clans, tartans, and their origins. These popular maps are highly detailed, showing hundreds of arms, official insignia, crests, and tartans of the Scottish clans. This beautifully illustrated map is both decorative and informative. This map includes: Two double-sided, full-colour maps of Scotland More than 170 arms, the official insignia of clan chiefs, crest badges, and the locations of their ancient territories around the time of King James VI More than 240 tartans with corresponding clan/ family names, alphabetically arranged for easy look-up Additional information about the history of the clans and their tartans The map is ideal for those those with an interest in Scottish heraldry, clans and family history. Other titles in the series include: * Castles Map of Scotland (99780007508532) * Whiskey Map of Scotland (9780008368319)

A fascinating look into the world of men's neckwear, chronicling the style, fabric, and design changes that evolved in the second half of the 20th century. The book features nearly 400 color photographs along with a current price guide. From the slim ties of the late 1950s and early 1960s to the wide and wild Kipper ties of the mid-60s was a dramatic shift. By the late 1970s men's fashion returned to a normal state and designer labels entered the fashion scene in full force. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, retro styles became apparent as manufacturers reproduced abstract and geometric styles of the 1940s and 1950s. As the 1990s progressed, new collectible ties began flooding the market . Collecting men's ties can be extremely entertaining and a real treasure hunt. Whether it be a contemporary example or one worn decades ago, a tie is wearable art!

This book presents a nostalgic look at baby and children's wear from the Victorian Era to the first half of the 20th century. It chronicles the changes in children's fashions over the decades and centuries, from the popularity of tartans and plaids in the 1880s, to Knickerbocker suits and box pleated tunics, introduced by the Victorians, to the ever popular and enduring sailor suit. Over 300 stunning, full color photographs showcase the many wonderful and unusual examples of vintage and antique children's clothing, along with detailed descriptions and pricing. From exquisite christening gowns made of cotton and silk, with beautiful embroidery and lace trimmings, to the poignancy of a baby's mourning outfit, this book is delightful and informative in its photography and historic content. It is a must have for anyone interested in the field of fashion and vintage clothing, as well as antiques and collectibles.

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines and with a special focus on reconstruction. The third volume of this pioneering series explores the manufacture and trade of textiles and their practical, fashionable, and symbolic uses. Papers include in-depth studies and cross-genre scholarship representing such fields associal history, economics, art history, archaeology and literature, as well as the reconstruction of textile-making techniques. They range over England, Flanders, France, Germany, and Spain from the seventh to the sixteenth centuries, and address such topics as soft furnishings, ecclesiastical vestments, the economics of the wool trade, the making and use of narrow wares, symbolic reference to courtly dress in a religious text, and aristocratic children'sclothing. Also included are reviews of recent books on dress and textile topics. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on Western European dress, specializing in the depiction and interpretation of clothing by artists and historians. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at The University of Manchester and author of Dress in Anglo-Saxon England; she is the Director of an ARHC-fundedproject on cloth and clothing terminology in medieval Britain. CONTRIBUTORS: ELIZABETH COATSWORTH, SARAH LARRATT KEEFER, SUSAN LEIBACHER WARD, JOHN H. MUNRO, JOHN OLDLAN, LESLEY K. TWOMEY, ELIZABETH BENNS, LOIS SWALES, HEATHER BLATT, MELANIE SCHUESSLER

In "western" cultures, some people have chosen a dreadlock hairstyle, despite many in mainstream society looking at it in a negative light. This book deals with contradictions surrounding the hairstyle such as often representing a protest against the prevailing right-wing political systems, yet also emphasizing the white person's power to appropriate any style. Based on interviews and close observations in social media, the book offers insights into the culture(s) surrounding dreadlocks and ultimately interprets the phenomenon as a postmodern form of individuality.

In the context of gun proliferation and persistent gun violence in the United States, a controversial security strategy has gained public attention: bulletproof fashion. This book examines concerns about security focusing on armored clothing and accessories for civilians. Available for children and adults, such ballistic products include colorful backpacks, elegant suits, sports jackets, feminine dresses, trendy vests, and medical lab coats. These products are paradigmatic of a "fashion of fear"-the practice of outfitting the body with apparel aimed at maximizing personal security. This fashion encourages the emergence of both a fortress body and an armored society. Sutton also explores the wider social factors influencing the bulletproof fashion phenomenon, including the inequalities associated with neoliberalism and the militarization of civilian life. The book sheds light on the role of emotions in relation to discourses and perceptions of security, and encourages feminist and sociological studies to pay attention to the linkages between security, bodies, and dress. It is ideal for students and scholars interested in security and gun violence, culture and politics, neoliberalism and consumption, and bodies and emotions.

Through an examination of the experience of transsexuals, this book enhances understanding of how gender can and does function in powerful, complex and subtle ways. The author, who has herself been surgically reassigned, has conducted extensive interviews with transsexuals from many walks of life. Her personal experiences, which inform this book, have given her an access to her subjects that others would likely be denied. While highlighting how the gender identity of transsexuals relates to hormonal and surgical changes in the body as well as to changes in dress, the book investigates the pressures and motivations to conform to expected gender roles, and the ways in which these are affected by social, educational, and professional status. Differences in the experiences of those who change from male to female and those who change from female to male are also examined.
Sex reassignment has been the focus of considerable media attention recently, as increasing numbers of people feel able to talk frankly about their personal experiences with gender dysphoria. Strides with medical technology have given transsexuals new opportunities in their lives. This book provides unique insights into how these changes are seen by those people most affected them.

Skin, Culture and Psychoanalysis sets out to query the intersection of cultural and psychical meanings of skin in the contemporary moment as skin responds to new (and old) pressures and articulations. A variety of topics are herein addressed including the symbolic dominance of white skin, racialization, tattooing, cosmetic surgery, fabric skins, skin eruptions, second skins, the skin in self-harm, and skin as a site of psychic repair. The authors engage an array of objects and approaches from the clinical domain, literary fiction, television, film, video art, photography, fashion design, and poetry. In doing so, they highlight the situation of skin as a socially and culturally mediated exterior simultaneously negotiated at the interior or psychical level. This collection locates skin at the centre of inquiry, rather than as a jumping-off point from which to explore 'deeper' or 'thicker' issues, which tends to happen when skin is treated synecdochically as a stand-in for the body itself. Here, skin is a cultural object, and a psychical object, in its own right.

Drawing on extensive archival research and interviews, this book delves into the rich world of Ghanaian fashion, demonstrating how, over time, local dress styles and materials have been fused with global trends to create innovative, high fashion garments that reflect a distinctly Ghanaian cosmopolitanism. Ghana has a complex and diverse fashion culture which was in evidence before independence in 1957 and has continued to grow in reputation in the postcolonial period. In this book, Christopher Richards reflects on the contributions of the country's female fashion designers, who have employed fashion to innovate existing, culturally relevant dress styles, challenge gendered forms of dress, and make bold statements regarding women's sexuality. Treated as artworks, the book examines specific garments to illustrate the inherent complexity of their design and how fashion is often embedded with a blending of personal histories, cultural practices and global inspirations. Reflecting in particular on the works of Laura Quartey, Letitia Obeng, Juliana Kweifio-Okai, Beatrice Arthur and Aisha Ayensu, this book makes an important and timely contribution to art history, fashion studies, anthropology, history, women's studies and African Studies.

'This riveting behind-the-scenes story of the clothes on our backs is a must-read for clotheshorses everywhere' Harper's Bazaar 'Extraordinary . . . fascinating . . . a wonderful way into history, quite often through the voices of people who don't have a say in history' Cerys Matthews Linen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Wool: through the stories of these five fabrics, Sofi Thanhauser illuminates the world we inhabit in a startling new way, travelling from China to Cumbria to reveal the craft, labour and industry that create the clothes we wear. From the women who transformed stalks of flax into linen to clothe their families in nineteenth century New England to those who earn their dowries in the cotton-spinning factories of South India today, this book traces the origins of garment-making through time and around the world. Exploring the social, economic and environmental impact of our most personal possessions, Worn looks beyond care labels to show how clothes reveal the truth about what we really care about. 'A must-read . . . combines remarkable research with heartfelt care' Clare Hunter

The fashion show and its spaces are sites of otherness, representing everything from rebellion and excess through to political and social activism. This conceptual and stylistic variety is reflected in the spaces they occupy, whether they are staged in an industrial warehouse, on a city street, or out in the open landscape. Staging Fashion is the first collection of essays about the presentation and staging of fashion in runway shows in the period from the 1960s to the 2010s. It offers a fresh perspective on the many collaborations between artists, architects and interior designers to reinforce their interdisciplinary links. Fashion, architecture and interiors share many elements, including design, history, material culture, aesthetics and trends. The research and ideas underpinning Staging Fashion address how fashion and the spatial fields have collaborated in the creation of the space of the fashion show. The 15 essays are written by fashion, interior, architecture and design scholars focusing on the presentation of fashion within the runway space, from avant-garde practices and collaboration with artists, to the most spectacular and commercial shows of recent years, from Prada to Chanel.