Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and
challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography.
Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a
dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process
whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking
plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass
and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote
sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other
practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in
our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main
outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone
interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers,
forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical
oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
General
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