In the world of fashion the Japanese kimono is something of a icon.
More universal than the caftan or even the Scottish kilt, it has
influenced centuries of dress design. Used as a basis for anything
from exotic evening frocks to a military greatcoat, the kimono has
been most famously adapted to create a ubiquitous leisure robe for
both sexes: the dressing gown or beach wrap synonymous, ironically,
with comfort and relaxation. Ironically because in its traditional
form the kimono is possibly the most difficult article of clothing
imaginable. Its wearing is an art, its paradox that although the
kimono remains the national dress of Japan, that art of wearing it
is one no modern Japanese would ever willingly choose to practise.
The covering any race of people has developed to clad the body
invariably carries a greater significance than mere modesty or
protection against the elements. Clothes are always indicators of
class, wealth and rank, and nowhere more so than the kimono. It
only takes a brief glance at the historical origin of some of the
bizarre strictures this singular costume imposes on the human form
to appreciate that the kimono is not simply representative of a
style of dress but an entire culture. As Japan has become
increasingly susceptible to the trends of contemporary Westernized
style, so the changing status of the kimono can be seen as symbolic
of a heritage under threat. The very term kimono, its most basic
meaning 'a thing to wear', is underpinned by an interior language
in danger of losing its relevance. Exhaustively argued, this is an
original and valuable book. If it occasionally indulges in academic
jargon the author might be forgiven on the grounds that she is an
anthropologist specializing in Japanese culture. She clearly knows
what she is talking about. Following her earlier Geisha, this is
another esoteric delight for anyone intrigued by one of the most
extraordinary garments known to mankind. (Kirkus UK)
In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book Liza Dalby traces the history of the kimono - its designs, uses, aesthetics and social significance - and in doing so explores the world of the geisha, last wearers of the kimono. The colourful and stylised kimono, the national garment of Japan, expresses not only Japanese fashion and design taste but also reveals something of the soul of Japan. Amazingly beautiful, many today consider it impractical, too uncomfortable to wear in modern life - it was generally discarded by men for suits and ties a century ago, and now only worn occasionally by women. However, the kimono still retains a powerful hold on the Japanese heart and mind, and provides a link to Japan's past.
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