In celebration of the founding of the Russian fleet by Peter the
Great, The Dutch Coastal Cruising Association undertook a 4,800
European odyssey in 1994 that culminated in sailing the Russian
inland waters between Archangel and the Baltic Sea. Fifteen
sailboats hosted by the Archangel Yacht Club, became the first
Western-flagged pleasure boats allowed on this militarily strategic
waterway. The author crewed aboard Tiota and proudly flew the Stars
and Stripes from her port spreader, heralding an American aboard.
Whereas emerging "New Russians" viewed our fleet as a vanguard for
future boat tourism, it seemed "Old Russians" made our voyage
bureaucratically discouraging. Nowhere was this more evident than
in the final passage along the River Neva through St. Petersburg.
The rules stated that bridges could only open at night and
sailboats could only sail during the day. A Russian Catch-22, with
the winter ice steadily approaching.
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