Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and
yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses
still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of
the female body in fashion imagery is still thin – dangerously
thin according to World Health Organization standards. Why is the
industry forfeiting a considerable share of the market in the form
of plus-size consumers, seemingly against its commercial interests?
Why does the thin ideal reign supreme despite damning evidence of
its harm to women? And is there a way out of this system of thin
ideals and segregated fat bodies? In this original study, Paolo
Volonté answers these questions and more, drawing on influential
literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing
in society. He reveals some surprising factors behind the
perpetuation of the thin ideal such as the precedent of thin models
and the introduction of standardised sizing for mass-manufactured
clothing. He also revisits less surprising factors such as the
attitudes of designers and consumers towards the female body, and
notions of 'perfection'. By critically analysing these factors,
Volonté reveals why plus-size fashion is often characterised by
'low aesthetic commitment' and low quality marketing. He explores
the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and
considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and
marketers alike.
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