F RE Y A LETTERS FROM SYRIA JOHN MURRAY ALBEMARLE STREET, LONDON, W. --- - First Edition Printed in Great Britain by Wyman Sons, Ltd., London, Fdkenham and Reading CONTENTS PACE i. FROM VENICE TO BEIRUT. LETTERS 112 j In the first of these letters Freya Stark has left her home at Asolo and has set out from Venice on a small cargo vessel for her first journey east of Italy and her first contact with the Near East. The s. s. Abbazia takes her as far as Rhodes, where she spends a few days before proceeding on s. s Diana to Beirut, The whole passage occupies three weeks. In the course of it she describes her first impressions of many famous places. 2. LEARNING ARABIC AT BRUMANA. LETTERS 13 63 23 The writer of these letters is now to spend three cold winter months at Brumana, a Syrian village on a slope of the Lebanon high above Beirut. She went with a recom mendation from the well-known orientalist Sir Thomas Arnold, and her object in settling there was to gain a command of fiuent Arabic. She had already received a grounding in this difficult tongue, first from an old Franciscan missionary friar at San Remo, then in 1926 from an Egyptian teacher in London, and finally in 1327 at the School of Oriental Studies. 3. FIRST VISIT TO DAMASCUS. LETTERS 6489 87 Telling of a month at Damascus, where the writer stayed in a native household in the Moslem quarter, and was much hampered by ill-health due to insanitary conditions. After three weeks convalescence in Brwnana she is joined by her friend Venetia Buddicom, whose acquaintance the reader has already made in the course of this correspondence. DAMASCUS AND THENCE TO LETTERS go 1 08 127 friends go by car to Baalbek and Damascus. Their nextexpedition is an unconventional and adventurous one, seeing that the Druse revolt of August, 1925, had continued until March, 1927, and that the French rulers of Syria were far from welcoming intruders. They are mounted on donkeys and with a Druse guide called Najm make a leisurely progress towards Palestine. At the end of eleven days they are at Bosra. There they dismiss their guide and take a car for Jericho and Jerusalem. 5. POSTSCRIPTS FROM ASOLO AND BRUMANA. LETTERS 109 in i 9 These letters re-introduce some persons and places already familiar to the reader, who will perhaps discern in the last sentence of all a link with the opening chapter of Baghdad Sketches. VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS From photographs by Miss Venetia Buddicom, except Frontispiece and those otherwise marked Freya Stark Frontispiece at end of book 1. Lindos, Rhodes Marine Photo Service, Colchester 2. Coastal hills of Syria 1 3. Asphodels over Syrian ruins 4. Flocks of the Beduin 4. Hawking in Syrian cornfields 5. Cutting the corn 6. Roman ruins at Baalbek 7. Great Mosque, Damascus Photo. P. 0. 8. In a Damascus bazaar 9. A cobbler at Damascus 10. Escort first seen 1 1 . Freya Stark, Najm and Arif 1 2. Groups at Deir All 13. Stone doors at Burdk 14. Freya Stark and Arifby the well at Redeme 14. Inside the guest room at Redeme vii 15. Beduin girl dancing near Shahba 15. Coffeepots 1 6 School children at Redeme 17. Miss Buddicom and French officers at Shahba 18. Circular temple at Kanawat 1 8. Little theatre in the ravine ig. Ruins at Kanawat 20. Ruins t Kanawat 20. Temple ruins below Sir 2 1 . The castle guard at Bosra 21. Children in gateway at Atyl 22. Mutib and his grandchildren at Resas 22. Making butter at Resas23. MufiVs tent at Resas 23. Ruined mosque and minaret at Salhad 24. Bosra From photographs by the author Sketch map drawn by H. W. Hawes xi Vlll FOREWORD THESE letters, written on my first coming to Asia, were neatly and dreamlessly at rest in Sir John Murrays cup board when, between one blitz and another, the Pub lishers eye fell upon them. They were asked for and obtained the dislocation of war between me and the printer made the sending 6f proofs impracticable Sir Sydney Cockerell has most kindly edited them and seen them through the Press...

INTRODUCED BY MONISHA RAJESH, award-winning author of Around the World in 80 Trains 'If I were asked to enumerate the pleasures of travel, this would be one of the greatest among them - that so often and so unexpectedly you meet the best in human nature.' Growing up in near-poverty and denied a formal education, Freya Stark had nurtured a fascination for the Middle East since reading Arabian Nights as a child. But it wasn't until she was in her thirties that she was able to leave Europe. Boarding a cargo ship to Beirut in 1927, she went on to became one of her generation's most intrepid explorers - her adventures would take her to remote areas in Turkey, the Middle East and Asia. The Valleys of the Assassins chronicles Stark's treks into the wilderness of western Iran on the hunt for treasure and in an attempt to locate the long-fabled Assassins in Alumut, an ancient Persian sect. Entering Luristan on a mule, draped in native clothing, Freya bluffs her way past border guards and sets off into uncharted territory; places where few Europeans, and no European women, had ventured. Stark was a woman of indefatigable energy, who often travelled with only a single guide and on a shoestring budget, and who was undeterred by discomfort and danger. Hailed as a classic upon its first publication in 1934, The Valleys of the Assassins is an absorbing account of people and place. Full of wit and rich in detail - and also in humanity - her writing brings to vivid life the stories of the ancient kingdoms of the Middle East.

Freya Stark is most famous for her travels in Arabia at a time when very few men, let alone women, had fully explored its vast hinterlands. In 1934, she made her first journey to the Hadhramaut in what is now Yemen - the first woman to do so alone. Even though that journey ended in disappointment, sickness and a forced rescue, Stark, undeterred, returned to Yemen two years later. Starting in Mukalla and skirting the fringes of the legendary and unexplored Empty Quarter, she spent the winter searching for Shabwa - ancient capital of the Hadhramaut and a holy grail for generations of explorers. From within Stark's beautifully-crafted and deeply knowledgeable narrative emerges a rare and exquisitely-rendered portrait of the customs and cultures of the tribes of the Arabian Peninsula. A Winter in Arabia is one of the most important pieces of literature on the region and a book that placed Freya Stark in the pantheon of great writers and explorers of the Arab World. To listen to her voice is to hear the rich echoes of a land whose 'nakedness is clothed in shreds of departed splendour'.

'She has written the best travel books of her generation and her name will survive as an artist in prose.' - The Observer Written just after the Second World War, Perseus in the Wind (named after the constellation) is perhaps the most personal, and haunting, of all Freya Stark's writings. She muses on the seasons, the effect light has on a landscape at a particular time of day, the smell of the earth after rain, Muslim saints, Indian temples, war and old age. Each chapter is devoted to a particular theme: happiness (simple pleasures, like her father's passion for the view from his cabin in Canada); education (to be able to command happiness, recognise beauty, value death, increase enjoyment); beauty (incongruous, flighty and elusive - a description of the stars, the burst of flowers in a park); death (a childhood awareness of the finality of time, the meaningfulness of the end); memory (the jewelled quality of literature, pleasure, love, an echo or a scent when aged by the passage of time). For those who have loved her travel writing, Perseus in the Wind illuminates the motivations behind Freya Stark's journeys and the woman behind the traveller.

'There are not so many places left where magic reigns without interruption and of all those I know, the coast of Lycia was the most magical.' Lycia, on the southwestern coast of Turkey, is an ancient land steeped in mystery, myth and legend. Home to the fiery chimera and to the great heroes Sarpedon and Penderus; heartland of worship for the goddess Leto and her children Apollo and Artemis; old ally of Troy, lure to conquering Cyrus and Alexander and to centuries of travellers, artists and writers - Lycia, part of the 'Turquoise Coast' now attracts more tourists to her glimmering shores than any other part of Turkey. In the early 1950s, following the trail of ancient Persian and Greek traders, Freya Stark set out by boat to explore the Lycian coast. She was guided by the traces of Lycia's rich history and cultural heritage. For all those who now follow in her wake, there can be no better, more evocative or knowledgeable guide to this, Turkey's most enchanting coast.

Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

F RE Y A LETTERS FROM SYRIA JOHN MURRAY ALBEMARLE STREET, LONDON, W. --- - First Edition Printed in Great Britain by Wyman Sons, Ltd., London, Fdkenham and Reading CONTENTS PACE i. FROM VENICE TO BEIRUT. LETTERS 112 j In the first of these letters Freya Stark has left her home at Asolo and has set out from Venice on a small cargo vessel for her first journey east of Italy and her first contact with the Near East. The s. s. Abbazia takes her as far as Rhodes, where she spends a few days before proceeding on s. s Diana to Beirut, The whole passage occupies three weeks. In the course of it she describes her first impressions of many famous places. 2. LEARNING ARABIC AT BRUMANA. LETTERS 13 63 23 The writer of these letters is now to spend three cold winter months at Brumana, a Syrian village on a slope of the Lebanon high above Beirut. She went with a recom mendation from the well-known orientalist Sir Thomas Arnold, and her object in settling there was to gain a command of fiuent Arabic. She had already received a grounding in this difficult tongue, first from an old Franciscan missionary friar at San Remo, then in 1926 from an Egyptian teacher in London, and finally in 1327 at the School of Oriental Studies. 3. FIRST VISIT TO DAMASCUS. LETTERS 6489 87 Telling of a month at Damascus, where the writer stayed in a native household in the Moslem quarter, and was much hampered by ill-health due to insanitary conditions. After three weeks convalescence in Brwnana she is joined by her friend Venetia Buddicom, whose acquaintance the reader has already made in the course of this correspondence. DAMASCUS AND THENCE TO LETTERS go 1 08 127 friends go by car to Baalbek and Damascus. Their nextexpedition is an unconventional and adventurous one, seeing that the Druse revolt of August, 1925, had continued until March, 1927, and that the French rulers of Syria were far from welcoming intruders. They are mounted on donkeys and with a Druse guide called Najm make a leisurely progress towards Palestine. At the end of eleven days they are at Bosra. There they dismiss their guide and take a car for Jericho and Jerusalem. 5. POSTSCRIPTS FROM ASOLO AND BRUMANA. LETTERS 109 in i 9 These letters re-introduce some persons and places already familiar to the reader, who will perhaps discern in the last sentence of all a link with the opening chapter of Baghdad Sketches. VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS From photographs by Miss Venetia Buddicom, except Frontispiece and those otherwise marked Freya Stark Frontispiece at end of book 1. Lindos, Rhodes Marine Photo Service, Colchester 2. Coastal hills of Syria 1 3. Asphodels over Syrian ruins 4. Flocks of the Beduin 4. Hawking in Syrian cornfields 5. Cutting the corn 6. Roman ruins at Baalbek 7. Great Mosque, Damascus Photo. P. 0. 8. In a Damascus bazaar 9. A cobbler at Damascus 10. Escort first seen 1 1 . Freya Stark, Najm and Arif 1 2. Groups at Deir All 13. Stone doors at Burdk 14. Freya Stark and Arifby the well at Redeme 14. Inside the guest room at Redeme vii 15. Beduin girl dancing near Shahba 15. Coffeepots 1 6 School children at Redeme 17. Miss Buddicom and French officers at Shahba 18. Circular temple at Kanawat 1 8. Little theatre in the ravine ig. Ruins at Kanawat 20. Ruins t Kanawat 20. Temple ruins below Sir 2 1 . The castle guard at Bosra 21. Children in gateway at Atyl 22. Mutib and his grandchildren at Resas 22. Making butter at Resas23. MufiVs tent at Resas 23. Ruined mosque and minaret at Salhad 24. Bosra From photographs by the author Sketch map drawn by H. W. Hawes xi Vlll FOREWORD THESE letters, written on my first coming to Asia, were neatly and dreamlessly at rest in Sir John Murrays cup board when, between one blitz and another, the Pub lishers eye fell upon them. They were asked for and obtained the dislocation of war between me and the printer made the sending 6f proofs impracticable Sir Sydney Cockerell has most kindly edited them and seen them through the Press...

In 1934, famed British traveler Freya Stark sailed down the Red Sea, alighting in Aden, located at the tip of the Arabian peninsula. From this backwater outpost, Stark set forth on what was to be her most unforgettable adventure: Following the ancient frankincense routes of the Hadhramaut Valley, the most fertile in Arabia, she sought to be the first Westerner to locate and document the lost city of Shabwa. Chronicling her journey through the towns and encampments of the Hadhramaut, The Southern Gates of Arabia is a tale alive with sheikhs and sultans, tragedy and triumph. Although the claim to discovering Shabwa would not ultimately be Stark's, The Southern Gates of Arabia, a bestseller upon its original publication, remains a classic in the literature of travel. This edition includes a new Introduction by Jane Fletcher Geniesse, Stark's biographer.

When Roman legions marched into Asia Minor in 200BC, their plan was to secure a buffer zone between the Mediterranean, which they virtually owned, and the area beyond, which they sought to isolate rather than control. Along the long frontier of the Euphrates in Turkey lay the easternmost limits of the Roman Empire--a region they called Augusta Euphrantentis. Their expanding involvement lasted eight centuries, draining their energies and culminating in the destruction of the bridge that, since the time of Alexander the Great, had linked China to the commerce of the Mediterranean. Tracing the path of this ancient river and highlighting her travels with the vibrant history of 800 years of Roman warfare and the history of this mighty river, Freya Stark ultimately reveals the futility of war, of arbitrary boundaries, and territorial conquest. Rome on the Euphrates, at once travel and history, is one of her most magnificent and highly acclaimed works.

Hailed as a classic upon its first publication in 1934, The Valleys of the Assassins firmly established Freya Stark as one of her generation's most intrepid explorers. The book chronicles her travels into Luristan, the mountainous terrain nestled between Iraq and present-day Iran, often with only a single guide and on a shoestring budget.

Stark writes engagingly of the nomadic peoples who inhabit the region's valleys and brings to life the stories of the ancient kingdoms of the Middle East, including that of the Lords of Alamut, a band of hashish-eating terrorists whose stronghold in the Elburz Mountains Stark was the first to document for the Royal Geographical Society. Her account is at once a highly readable travel narrative and a richly drawn, sympathetic portrait of a people told from their own compelling point of view.

This edition includes a new Introduction by Jane Fletcher Geniesse, Stark's biographer.