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For some time there has existed an extensive theoretical literature
relating to tides on continental shelves and also to the behavior
of estuaries. Much less attention was traditionally paid to the
dynamics of longer term, larger scale motions (those which are
usually described as circulation') over continental shelves or in
enclosed shallow seas such as the North American Great Lakes. This
is no longer the case: spurred on by other disciplines, notably
biological oceanography, and by public concern with the
environment, the physical science of the coastal ocean has made
giant strides during the last two decades or so. Today, it is
probably fair to say that coastal ocean physics has come of age as
a deduc tive quantitative science. A well developed body of
theoretical models exist, based on the equations of fluid motion,
which have been related to observed currents, sea level variations,
water properties, etc. Quantitative parameters required in using
the models to predict e.g. the effects of wind or of freshwater
influx on coastal currents can be estimated within reasonable
bounds of error. While much remains to be learned, and many
exciting discoveries presumably await us in the future, the time
seems appropriate to summarize those aspects of coastal ocean
dynamics relevant to 'circulation' or long term motion."
For some time there has existed an extensive theoretical literature
relating to tides on continental shelves and also to the behavior
of estuaries. Much less attention was traditionally paid to the
dynamics of longer term, larger scale motions (those which are
usually described as circulation') over continental shelves or in
enclosed shallow seas such as the North American Great Lakes. This
is no longer the case: spurred on by other disciplines, notably
biological oceanography, and by public concern with the
environment, the physical science of the coastal ocean has made
giant strides during the last two decades or so. Today, it is
probably fair to say that coastal ocean physics has come of age as
a deduc tive quantitative science. A well developed body of
theoretical models exist, based on the equations of fluid motion,
which have been related to observed currents, sea level variations,
water properties, etc. Quantitative parameters required in using
the models to predict e.g. the effects of wind or of freshwater
influx on coastal currents can be estimated within reasonable
bounds of error. While much remains to be learned, and many
exciting discoveries presumably await us in the future, the time
seems appropriate to summarize those aspects of coastal ocean
dynamics relevant to 'circulation' or long term motion.
In recent years air-sea interaction has emerged as a subject in its own right, encompassing small-scale and large-scale processes in both air and sea. Air-Sea Interaction: Laws and Mechanisms is a comprehensive account of how the atmosphere and the ocean interact to control the global climate, what physical laws govern this interaction, and its prominent mechanisms. The topics covered range from evaporation in the oceans, to hurricanes, and on to poleward heat transport by the oceans. By developing the subject from basic physical (thermodynamic) principles, the book is accessible to graduate students and research scientists in meteorology, oceanography, and environmental engineering. It will also be of interest to the broader physics community involved in the treatment of transfer laws, and thermodynamics of the atmosphere and ocean.
The rather excessive public preoccupation of the immediate past
with what has been labeled the 'environmental crisis' is now
fortunately being replaced by a more sus tained and rational
concern with pollution problems by public administrators,
engineers, and scientists. It is to be expected that members of the
engineering profes sion will in the future widely be called upon to
design disposal systems for gaseous and liquid wastes which meet
strict pollution control regulations and to advise on possible
improvements to existing systems of this kind. The engineering
decisions involved will have to be based on reasonably accurate
quantitative predictions of the effects of pollutants introduced
into the atmosphere, ocean, lakes and rivers. A key input for such
calculations comes from the theory of turbulent diffusion, which
enables the prediction of the concentrations in which pollutants
may be found in the neighborhood of a release duct, such as a
chimney or a sewage outfall. Indeed the role of diffusion theory in
pollution prediction may be likened to the role of applied
mechanics (, strength of materials') in the design of structures
for adequate strength. At least a certain group of engineers will
have to be proficient in applying this particular branch of science
to practical problems. At present, training in the theory of
turbulent diffusion is available only at the gra duate level and
then only in a very few places."
In recent years air-sea interaction has emerged as a subject in its own right, encompassing small-scale and large-scale processes in both air and sea. Air-Sea Interaction: Laws and Mechanisms is a comprehensive account of how the atmosphere and the ocean interact to control the global climate, what physical laws govern this interaction, and its prominent mechanisms. The topics covered range from evaporation in the oceans, to hurricanes, and on to poleward heat transport by the oceans. By developing the subject from basic physical (thermodynamic) principles, the book is accessible to graduate students and research scientists in meteorology, oceanography, and environmental engineering. It will also be of interest to the broader physics community involved in the treatment of transfer laws, and thermodynamics of the atmosphere and ocean.
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