For some time there has existed an extensive theoretical literature
relating to tides on continental shelves and also to the behavior
of estuaries. Much less attention was traditionally paid to the
dynamics of longer term, larger scale motions (those which are
usually described as circulation') over continental shelves or in
enclosed shallow seas such as the North American Great Lakes. This
is no longer the case: spurred on by other disciplines, notably
biological oceanography, and by public concern with the
environment, the physical science of the coastal ocean has made
giant strides during the last two decades or so. Today, it is
probably fair to say that coastal ocean physics has come of age as
a deduc tive quantitative science. A well developed body of
theoretical models exist, based on the equations of fluid motion,
which have been related to observed currents, sea level variations,
water properties, etc. Quantitative parameters required in using
the models to predict e.g. the effects of wind or of freshwater
influx on coastal currents can be estimated within reasonable
bounds of error. While much remains to be learned, and many
exciting discoveries presumably await us in the future, the time
seems appropriate to summarize those aspects of coastal ocean
dynamics relevant to 'circulation' or long term motion."
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