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Hardy Amies epitomized understated British couture, emphasizing the
cut of fine materials by tailored construction. Untrained in
dress-making, he achieved headlines in Vogue in 1937 with his
'Panic' suit, a reconstructed design of a staple in every woman's
wardrobe, wittily named to reflect current events. Evoking the
glamour of pre-war London while meeting the demands of contemporary
society's activities - town to country, morning to night - Amies
designs drew a star-studded clientele. His war-time 'utility'
designs revealed his design philosophy (and partly concealed his
role as head of the Belgian Section of SOE), unveiling a
needle-sharp intelligence and intuition for the changing world of
fashion, his elegant execution of which was rewarded through the
influential seal of approval by HM Queen Elizabeth II, as Princess
Elizabeth, in 1950. The first post-war international designer to
visit the USA, Amies' luxurious style produced lucrative global
business opportunities, including ready-to-wear, menswear shown as
couture, and wide-ranging merchandising options.
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