A step-by-step guide to making vests, belts, and wallets by home tanning and hand-working furs and leathers. 138,000 copies in print.

Intended for conservators with or without a scientific background, this book covers the material science of textiles including their deterioration, condition and investigation. It will also facilitate understanding of the chemical processes during various cleaning treatments and their effects on textiles The book provides the textile conservator with the necessary tools to understand the chemistry of the objects they are asked to treat and to make informed decisions about how to preserve textiles The combination of a chemist and a conservator author team gives textile conservators ready access to the necessary chemical knowledge and scientists an understanding of textile conservation necessary to direct their research The practical examples and case studies illustrates the utility of the relatively large chemical introduction and the essential chemical information which is included.

Originally published during the early part of the twentieth century, the Cambridge Manuals of Science and Literature were designed to provide concise introductions to a broad range of topics. They were written by experts for the general reader and combined a comprehensive approach to knowledge with an emphasis on accessibility. H. R. Procter's The Making of Leather, first published in 1914, presents a sketch of the methods, the chemistry and the scientific basis of leather-making.

This book examines the manufacturing, supply chain and product-level sustainability of leather and footwear products. This book deals with the environmental and chemical sustainability aspects pertaining to the tanning supply chain and the related mitigation measures. The book also explores interesting areas of leather and footwear sustainability, such as waste & the 3R's and their certification for sustainability. At the product level, the book covers advanced topics like the circular economy and blockchain technology for leather and footwear products and addresses innovation development and eco-material use in footwear by investigating environmental sustainability and the use of bacterial cellulose, a potential sustainable alternative for footwear and leather products.

This well-organized volume begins with a breakdown of the dynamic properties of composites and a complete look at various testing methods and data derived from each technique. Next is a discussion of wave motion in fiber-reinforced composites, including an investigation of effective modulus theory, an examination of wave motions in composite plates under impact loading, and a series of experimental studies conducted on inspected composite plates. The book then discusses non-destructive testing, including the applications and limitations of currently available non-destructive evaluation (NDE) techniques, and covers a variety of factors that affect the damage tolerance of composites. Important information on impact damage modeling, along with a classification of model types, is also presented.

The broad chemical principles underlying the application of dyes and pigments to a wide variety of substrates - such as textiles, surface coatings and plastics - are explained and illustrated.

The various technologies of colour application are discussed. The physical basis of colour and its instrumental measurement are covered and recent applications, for examples in electronics and reprographics, are also featured.

The subjects covered are
Dye and pigment molecules
Chemistry of polymeric substrates
Surface coatings: paints and printing inks
The application of dyes
Pigments and their application
Textile printing
Introduction to the physical basis and measurement of colour
Machinery for dyeing textiles
Pigment dispersion technology
Non-textile uses of dyes
Environmental and toxicology issues

This is the last of the Small-scale Textile series and covers the pre-spinning processes which make plant fibres suitable for textile manufacture. The book includes not only familiar plant fibres such as cotton, sisal and jute, but also less well known fibres from plants such as Himalayan nettle, pineapple leaf and kenaf, which are of great value to small communities where they are used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes. As well as extraction and other pre-spinning processes, there is background information on the growing areas, soil and climatic requirements and methods of harvesting, and details of equipment suppliers and sources of further information.

This technical handbook offers a clear and detailed introduction to the field of sericulture (the cultivation of silkworms) and silk production for small, rural communities in tropical and temperate climates. Each chapter deals with a specific stage in the production process, from the cultivation of mulberry bushes to the grading of silk, including a chapter on sources of further information. With its clear illustrations and charts, it is the ideal reference book for rural communities considering starting silk production.;The handbook is the latest addition to the "Small-scale Textiles", series which aims to present basic information about all aspects of small-scale textile manufacture from raw materials to finished products, and will be of use to fieldworkers, development agencies, and those starting small-scale manufacture or attempting to improve or extend manufacture.

"Medical and Hygiene Textile Production" considers the production of medical and hygiene textiles on a small scale in developing countries. Medical textiles include gauze, bandages and cotton wool, and hygiene textiles consist of sanitary towels and nappies.;Although the technologies for these products are often simple, in the past there has been very little comprehensive information available about production methods. This handbook offers basic information on all levels of manufacture and small scale production of these items, from household level production to small centralized units, from raw material processing to the packaging and labelling of the finished products.;All the processes described can be undertaken by hand or with the use of small mechanically driven equipment.

Aimed at small, rural communities this book offers an introduction to simple methods of making textile fabrics which are used throughout the world. Includes sections on weaving, knitting, fibre entanglement, lace-making, braiding and knotting (Published in the Small-scale Textiles series).

Almost all fabrics, whether woven or knitted, are produced from spun thread. However, this thread or yarn, produced by the spinning operation, either by a hand spinner using the simplest drop spindle or spinning wheel, or spun on the latest automated spinning frame, is rarely in a form suitable to be used immediately for producing a fabric. A broad range of tasks must be undertaken before the actual fabric production is reached. "Yarn Preparation" is concerned with the preparation of yarns which have been spun from staple fibres, and describes the post-spinning processes prior to fabric manufacture, such as yarn doubling, winding and spinning. Covers the operations to consider when producing a fabric by even the most basic of techniques. The information on basic processes, machinery and equipment should assist those people involved in the production of fabrics by showing ways to improve the quality to the end product. Includes a list of suppliers, sources of further information and a reading list. This is a valuable book which fills the need for a practical manual specifically about yarn preparation. Much has been published about the main textile areas of yarn manufacture and fabric production (both weaving and knitting), because yarn preparation tends to be a series of link operations, there have been very few books specifically directed to this area of processing. The "Small-Scale Textiles" series aims to present basic information about all aspects of small-scale textile manufacture from raw rmaterials to finished products, and will be of use to fieldworkers, development agencies, and those starting small-scale manufacture or attempting to improve or extend manufacture.

The text and line drawings describe chemical dyeing and printing techniques as they apply to small-scale operations, and how to plan for small-scale production.(Published in the Small-scale Textiles series).

The obrajes, or native textile manufactories, were primary agents of developing capitalism in colonial Mexico. Drawing on previously unknown or unexplored archival sources, Richard Salvucci uses standard economic theory and simple measurement to analyze the obraje and its inability to survive Mexico's integration into the world market after 1790. Originally published in 1988. The Princeton Legacy Library uses the latest print-on-demand technology to again make available previously out-of-print books from the distinguished backlist of Princeton University Press. These editions preserve the original texts of these important books while presenting them in durable paperback and hardcover editions. The goal of the Princeton Legacy Library is to vastly increase access to the rich scholarly heritage found in the thousands of books published by Princeton University Press since its founding in 1905.

Evaluates the carcinogenic risk to humans posed by exposure to selected flame retardants and other chemicals used in the textile manufacturing industry. Agents were selected for evaluation on the basis of the availability of data on carcinogenicity and on human exposure. The book also includes an extensive monograph addressing the question of whether employment in the textile manufacturing industry exposes workers to carcinogenic risks. Monographs cover six flame retardants (chlorendic acid, chlorinated paraffins, decabromodiphenyl oxide, dimethyl hydrogen phosphite, tetrakis(hydroxymethyl) phosphonium salts, and tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate), five textile dyes ("para"-chloro-"ortho"-toluidine and its strong acid salts, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Yellow 3, Vat Yellow 4, and 5-nitro-"ortho"-toluidine) and nitrilotriacetic acid and its salts. "Para"-chloro-"ortho"-toluidine and its strong acid salts were classified as probably carcinogenic to humans; and chlorendic acid chlorinated paraffins, Disperse Blue 1, and nitrilotriacetic acid and its salts were classified as possibly carcinogenic to humans. The remaining chemicals could not be classified. The most extensive monograph evaluates occupational exposures in the textile manufacturing industry. Evaluations of risk concentrate on epidemiological evidence of carcinogenicity at the oral and pharyngeal oesophagus and stomach, nasal cavity, larynx, lung, and bladder sites. In view of the strength of findings of bladder cancer among dyers and among weavers and of cancer of the nasal cavity among weavers and other textile workers, the monograph concludes that working in the textile manufacturing industry entails exposures that are possibly carcinogenic to humans.

The obrajes, or native textile manufactories, were primary agents of developing capitalism in colonial Mexico. Drawing on previously unknown or unexplored archival sources, Richard Salvucci uses standard economic theory and simple measurement to analyze the obraje and its inability to survive Mexico's integration into the world market after 1790.

Originally published in 1988.

The Princeton Legacy Library uses the latest print-on-demand technology to again make available previously out-of-print books from the distinguished backlist of Princeton University Press. These paperback editions preserve the original texts of these important books while presenting them in durable paperback editions. The goal of the Princeton Legacy Library is to vastly increase access to the rich scholarly heritage found in the thousands of books published by Princeton University Press since its founding in 1905.

This book offers a state-of-the-art view of leather making, based on the scientific principles underpinning the technology. In particular, it contributes to the understanding of the modern leather industry, allowing practitioners to make judgements about day-to-day problems in the tannery and how change can be applied in a predictable way. Major themes running through the book are the economics and environmental impact of leather making and how these will ensure the sustainability of the industry. This second edition of Tony Covington's Tanning Chemistry is a revision, update and extension in collaboration with a new co-author, Will Wise. The update reflects the advances made in the past decade, including a discussion of the impact of new information concerning the chemistry of sulfide. The original chapters have been re-organised and new chapters on novel modes of reagent delivery and the principles of finishing are now included. Enzymology is addressed as a separate topic, as are environmental impact and the future of leather. The book will be useful to all those involved in the supply chain, from farm, through students, chemical suppliers and tanners, to leather goods brands. Leather science is the key to understanding leather technology, to make it work, to make it work better and to keep it ahead of the competition.

The scope of the study reported in this book entails understanding the constraints and providing potential diagnostics to Africa's leather sector, which is otherwise globally, one of the most lucrative agro-based industries in the world, estimated at over US$ 130Billion. One of the principle core thematic aspects of the leather sector is, characteristically, its long value chain with multiple socio-economic dimensions. These entail employability, creation of wealth, gender parity and rural development. Thusly, in an effort to stimulate scholarly discussion, the study argues that preemptively, the problems facing the leather value chain stratums are high losses, low value addition initiatives and unexplored opportunities that are synonymous with the Africa's leather industry. Indeed, the results of the research conceptualized opportunity management as a critical panacea towards value addition strategy for the leather sector in developing countries. In dealing with this concept, the book evaluated the various value chains phases and identified nine specific issues and variables drawn between value addition and the main leather strata. With this background, the study posed a main question and four sub questions to closely expound on related hypotheses and in lieu pursue four thematic aspects: trade, productivity, competitiveness, and innovation covered in twelve chapters of the book. Conclusively, the book manages to successfully conceptualize as a novelty that opportunity management is integral towards developing a leather value addition strategy for the developing countries with particular emphasis to Africa.

Textiles: A Handbook for Designers is a thorough study of the textile industry and the design processes and techniques used by professionals. With an overview of the textile industry and a thorough explanation of the designer's role, the text encourages adaptation of any design expertise into the processes, techniques, and formats characteristic of the textile industry. Textiles is a compilation of information obtained from many different designers. Because each designer may work for years within only one segment of the market, this comprehensive view of studio practices throughout the industry should be meaningful even to practicing professionals. An indispensable reference work for artists who aspire to work with textile design as well as for professionals in the textile industry and related fields of interior and apparel design, the revised edition of Textiles covers the most recent developments as well as traditional practices.

Even in the 21st Century, the manufacture of leather retains an air of the dark arts, still somewhat shrouded in the mysteries of a millennia old, craft based industry. Despite the best efforts of a few scientists over the last century or so, much of the understanding of the principles of tanning is still based on received wisdom and experience. Leather is made from (usually) the hides and skins of animals - large animals such as cattle have hides, small animals such as sheep have skins. The skin of any animal is largely composed of the protein collagen, so it is the chemistry of this fibrous protein and the properties it confers to the skin with which the tanner is most concerned. In addition, other components of the skin impact on processing, impact on the chemistry of the material and impact on the properties of the product, leather. Therefore, it is useful to understand the relationships between skin structure at the molecular and macro levels, the changes imposed by modifying the chemistry of the material and the eventual properties of the leather. This book aims to contribute to changing the thinking in the industry, to continue building a body of scientific understanding, aimed at enhancing the sustainability of an industry which produces a unique group of materials, derived from a natural source. The Science of Leather is the only current text on tanning science, and addresses the scientific principles which underpin the processes involved in making leather. It is concerned with the chemical modification of collagen, prior to tanning and the tanning reactions in particular. The subject is covered in the following order: collagen chemistry, collagen structure, skin structure, processing to prepare for tanning, the tanning processes and processing after tanning. The aim of the book is to provide leather scientists and technologists with an understanding of how the reactions work, the nature of their outcomes and how the processes can be controlled and changed. The objective is to synthesise a scientific view of leather making and to arrive at an understanding of the nature of tanning - how the wide range of chemistries employed in the art can change the properties of collagen, making leather with different properties, especially conferring different degrees of stabilisation as measured by the hydrothermal stability. Environmental issues are not treated as a separate theme - the impact of leather making on the environment is a thread running through the text, with the assumption that better understanding of the science of leather making will lead to improved processing. The book also reflects on the ways leather technology may develop in the future based on the foundation of understanding the scientific principles which can be exploited. It also includes a subject index, references and a glossary. The book provides the reader with insights into the role science plays in leather technology and provides fundamental understanding, which should be the basis for scientific and technological research and development for the benefit of the global leather industry. The book is aimed at students, leather scientists and technologists, in both academia and industry, in leather production and in chemical supply houses.

Important Note about PRINT ON DEMAND Editions: You are purchasing a print on demand edition of this book. This book is printed individually on uncoated (non-glossy) paper with the best quality printers available. The printing quality of this copy will vary from the original offset printing edition and may look more saturated. The information presented in this version is the same as the latest edition. Any pattern pullouts have been separated and presented as single pages. If the pullout patterns are missing, please contact c&t publishing.

Just as the ride of mechanized textile production marked the beginning of the Industrial Revolution in the United States, its demise signaled the onset of deindustrialization. Once considered an aberration in an otherwise unblemished record of economic progress, the decline of New England's textile industry in the decade following World War II has been mirrored throughout other industries in the nation's heartland. In this book, William F. Hartford examines that process from the perspective of union leaders who sought to save the textile industry while at the same time trying to improve conditions of work. He draws on the experiences of workers across New England but focuses on developments in three cities: Fall River, New Bedford, and Lawrence. Challenging the view of deindustrialization as an inevitable process of decline, Hartford shows how textile unionists attempted to establish a bargaining structure that balanced wages, workloads, and investment. He explores as well the divisions among both manufacturers and rank-and-filers that complicated these efforts. Where Is Our Responsibility? offers an informative case study of the postwar shift of the U.S. economy and provides a broader historical view of current union struggles to preserve the nation's manufacturing base.

A complete look at the management of an apparel manufacturing system. From upper management functions to employees on the floor, this also includes sections on information flow, marketing, preseason planning, and much much more.

The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries represents the work of many conservators, conservation scientists, and curators from museums and tapestry and embroidery conservation workshops in western Europe and the United States. They were gathered together for meetings in Brussels in 1987 to present their current research, to scrutinize new findings, and to discuss specific problems, innovations, methods, and materials for the conservation of textiles.