How did powder and paint, once scorned as immoral, become
indispensable to millions of respectable women? How did a "kitchen
physic," as homemade cosmetics were once called, become a
multibillion-dollar industry? And how did men finally take over
that rarest of institutions, a woman's business?In "Hope in a Jar,"
historian Kathy Peiss gives us the first full-scale social history
of America's beauty culture, from the buttermilk and rice powder
recommended by Victorian recipe books to the mass-produced products
of our contemporary consumer age. She shows how women, far from
being pawns and victims, used makeup to declare their freedom,
identity, and sexual allure as they flocked to enter public life.
And she highlights the leading role of white and black
women--Helena Rubenstein and Annie Turnbo Malone, Elizabeth Arden
and Madame C. J. Walker--in shaping a unique industry that relied
less on advertising than on women's customs of visiting and
conversation. Replete with the voices and experiences of ordinary
women, "Hope in a Jar" is a richly textured account of the ways
women created the cosmetics industry and cosmetics created the
modern woman.
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