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Young Originals - Emily Wilkens and the Teen Sophisticate (Paperback)
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Young Originals - Emily Wilkens and the Teen Sophisticate (Paperback)
Series: Costume Society of America Series
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In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her
previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two
teenage characters in a Broadway play. Recognizing the growing
importance of the teenager in American culture, she soon launched
Emily Wilkens Young Originals, the first designer label
specializing in upscale, fashionable clothing for teenage girls.
Within the space of a few years, Wilkens skyrocketed from obscurity
to national recognition, yet even today many fashion insiders would
not recognize her name. Fashion historian Rebecca Jumper Matheson
explores intertwining stories of female agency through the history
of Wilkens and her teenage clientele. Wilkens retained both
artistic and business control over her label in an era when most
American ready-to-wear designers were anonymous employees of
manufacturers. Wilkens parleyed her relative youth into a
big-sister image which, like her dresses themselves, allowed her to
mediate between the concerns of her teenage clients and their
parents. Contrary to popular wisdom, Wilkens's designs declared
that even a teenager could be fashionable. In doing so, Wilkens
laid the foundation for the seismic shift that would occur later in
the twentieth century, when youth became the fashionable ideal.
Young Originals traces Wilkens's career from fashion illustrator in
the 1930s to spa and beauty expert in the 1980s, emphasizing her
consistent ideal of healthy, youthful beauty.
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