A Savile Row suite is universally understood to be the best one can buy. There is no other street in the world that has come such a byword for excellence. One tailor - Henry Poole - is responsible for this. Carefully researched and beautifully illustrated this book chronicles the evolution of Savile Row and the emergence of Henry Poole as the premier tailor with a fascinating list of clients. Throughout the world 'a Savile Row suit' is universally understood to be the very best one can possibly buy. There can be few other streets in the world that have become such a byword for excellence. One tailor more than any other is responsible for this international reputation - Henry Poole and Company. Yet how did this prominence come about? Henry Poole - The Making of a Legend is more than just the story of a company's rise to prominence. Carefully researched from the company's extensive archives, amongst many other sources, this book will fascinate the reader on a number of levels. It chronicles the evolution of Savile Row as well as encompassing a social record of Britain's international emergence. At the same time it documents how fashions have changed and progressed. The pages of Henry Poole - The Making of a Legend reflect almost two centuries of the ebb and flow of corporate survival with financial successes followed by perilous trading and near bankruptcy. Behind the discreet glamour of the bespoke tailoring trade there were dark sides; the the Row - There's no such thing as bad publicity - Goodbye to Everett Street - Royal Court and the Racecourse - Into the Row - The Life of a Gentleman - Happiness, Pride and Disater - The Burial of the Dead - Wampum and War Paint - The End of Civilisation - Poole has spoken - 1939 to 1955 - 1956 to 1970 - Return to the Row - 1986 to Present

'I loved her then, I love her now. Annie's back and she's better than ever! Fun, feel good and feisty - Annie Valentine is the woman you want to share a cocktail with!' Portia MacIntosh Can she get her life back online?Tired of being underestimated, Annie Valentine is determined to prove to everyone that she can make her life a success. Her job as a personal shopper is brilliant, but she's now intent on setting up a shoe and handbag empire of her own. To get there, she'll do anything and go anywhere - the handbag factories of Italy are calling! But what started out as a fun after hours project is getting slightly out of hand. Because Annie is working around the clock to bag the perfect bargain, and her family life and relationship with adorable Ed is feeling the strain. Annie knows she is getting in too deep, but the more she tries to pull back, the more risks she takes. Soon, everything Annie loves is on the line and perhaps the only way to have it all is to step into the real world again.... Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review

'I loved her then, I love her now. Annie's back and she's better than ever! Fun, feel good and feisty - Annie Valentine is the woman you want to share a cocktail with!' Portia MacIntoshCan she make it big in the big apple? When Annie Valentine lands her dream job in the heart of fabulous Manhattan, it's a pinch me moment. She's finally made it to the city that never sleeps and will look a million dollars doing it! And this time, Annie is going to make it a family affair and take her teenage daughter Lauren with her to show her the fashion highs and lows and to have a bit of other and daughter bonding...what could possibly go wrong? But back home in London, husband Ed faces a scandal at work and knows, in his heart, he needs Annie back. Suddenly Annie finds herself torn between her true love in London and her new love, New York. Does it have to be fashion or family...or can Annie Valentine have it all? Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review

He's been called "America's greatest living tailor" and "the most interesting man in the world." Now, for the first time, Holocaust survivor Martin Greenfield tells his incredible life story. Taken from his Czechoslovakian home at age fifteen and transported to the Nazi concentration camp at Auschwitz with his family, Greenfield came face to face with "Angel of Death" Dr. Joseph Mengele and was divided forever from his parents, sisters, and baby brother. In haunting, powerful prose, Greenfield remembers his desperation and fear as a teenager alone in the death camp and how an SS soldier's shirt dramatically altered the course of his life. He learned how to sew; and when he began wearing the shirt under his prisoner uniform, he learned that clothes possess great power and could even help save his life. Measure of a Man is the story of a man who suffered unimaginable horror and emerged with a dream of success. From sweeping floors at a New York clothing factory to founding America's premier custom suit company, Greenfield built a fashion empire. Now 86 years old and working with his sons, Greenfield has dressed the famous and powerful of D.C. and Hollywood, including Presidents Dwight Eisenhower, Bill Clinton, and Barack Obama, celebrities Paul Newman, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Jimmy Fallon, and the stars of Martin Scorsese's films. Written with soul-baring honesty and, at times, a wry sense of humor, Measure of a Man is a memoir unlike any other one that will inspire hope and renew faith in the resilience of man.

In 1962, Masahiro Shima founded Shima Seiki, with the aim of developing a fully automated seamless glove-knitting machine. Following this success, the company expanded into flat knitting machines. However, the age of the computer brought a whole new era for Shima Seiki. By committing to computerization in its mainstream products, Shima Seiki gradually began to stand apart from its competitors. Shima Seiki's focus on computer-aided knit design and programming, in fact led to a revolution in the fashion industry. Written by the inventor himself, this book looks at how Masahiro Shima developed both the technology and philosophy to enable his company to be market leaders in industrial knitting machines - and fundamentally change the fashion industry. This culminated in the launch of the company's Wholegarment knitting machine in 1995, which altered forever the way knitted garments are produced, and which today is used by fashion manufacturers across the world.

'I loved her then, I love her now. Annie's back and she's better than ever! Fun, feel good and feisty - Annie Valentine is the woman you want to share a cocktail with!' Portia MacIntoshHer passion is fashion... but she's on a budget! Personal shopper Annie Valentine is about to hit the big time: presenting a glamorous TV makeover series! This is it for Annie and her little family. No more scrimping and saving, finally all her hard work has paid off. But life in the spotlight isn't all it's cracked up to be. Soon, Annie discovers this is TV on a shoestring and her budget is zip. But more than this, Annie feels as though the women she should be helping to look fabulous, go away feeling all the more like fashion failures! Can Annie make it in the spotlight? Or will making it big mean losing who she really is? Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review

The bowling shirt is a unique work of art. With patterns and colors as varied as the bowlers who wore them, bowling shirts reflect a time when Americans loved their big cars, drive-ins, bowling alleys, and flashy clothing. This book showcases a wonderful collection of bowling shirts, each with its individual art work. In over 600 color photographs, the shirts are displayed alphabetically by manufacturers. Embroidery and design detail, manufacturers' labels, and special features are shown along with a complete description and value guide. Drawing on over twenty years of collecting experience, the authors have assembled some of the best bowling shirts of this era. This book is a treat for anyone interested in the beautiful art created for the sport of bowling and for collectors of vintage clothing.

Thermal Protective Clothing for Firefighters explores the materials, design, and usage of thermal protective clothing. The characteristics of fire hazards are discussed in detail, and the thermal environments faced by firefighters in these fire hazards are also examined. The different types of potential burn injuries and the heat stress that occurs to firefighters' bodies when exposed to such thermal environments are analyzed. Furthermore, the development of various high performance fibers and fabrics for thermal protective clothing is discussed. The test methods and existing standards to evaluate the thermal protective and physiological comfort performances of the fabrics and clothing are critically reviewed. Recent developments in the field of fire- and heat-resistant materials have led to significant improvements in thermal protective clothing. In parallel with this, the complexity and risk levels of fires, especially in industrial-storage facilities, and developments in health and safety cultures have increased the demand for high-performance heat- and flame-resistant clothing and equipment, designed to mitigate skin burn injuries and reduce risk of death from fire hazards. Throughout the work, the gaps and limitations in existing test methods and standards are identified, and approaches are recommended for the development of enhanced test methods. Scenario modeling and its implications for firefighters' protective clothing is discussed, and various factors affecting performance are established. Finally, various key issues related to thermal protective clothing are addressed to guide the future research in the field of thermal protective clothing for firefighters. This book will help materials-textile engineers to develop high performance thermal protective clothing that can enhance the protection, safety, and comfort of firefighters.

Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology discusses the design and manufacture of intimate apparel and how the industry is increasingly embracing novel materials, new technologies, and innovations in sizing and fit. The book reviews the ways in which new materials and methods are improving the range, function, and quality of intimate apparel, with particular focus on brassiere design. Part One introduces the advanced materials used for intimate apparel, including novel fabrics and dyes and finishes, along with materials for wiring and embellishments. Part Two discusses the role of seamless technology in intimate apparel production, covering lamination, moulding, and seamless knitting. Finally, Part Three reviews advances in design, fit, and performance.

Life cycle assessment (LCA) is used to evaluate the environmental impacts of textile products, from raw material extraction, through fibre processing, textile manufacture, distribution and use, to disposal or recycling. LCA is an important tool for the research and development process, product and process design, and labelling of textiles and clothing. Handbook of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Textiles and Clothing systematically covers the LCA process with comprehensive examples and case studies. Part one of the book covers key indicators and processes in LCA, from carbon and ecological footprints to disposal, re-use and recycling. Part two then discusses a broad range of LCA applications in the textiles and clothing industry.

Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products

Build the knowledge and understanding of garment technology essential to any designer In today's competitive fashion industry, it is essential that designers have a working understanding of garment technology. This 2nd edition has been comprehensively updated, with in-depth information on stitches, guides and attachments and sewing techniques, all of which are fully illustrated. There are enhanced chapters on machine and equipment technology explaining the uses, features and limitations of garment manufacturing equipment, enabling designers to create products that can be manufactured efficiently and with a high degree of quality. * Approached from the fashion designer's mindset, this book features illustrations to help users build their knowledge and understanding * Blends theoretical and practical material * Updated with the latest and most modern advances in clothing technology * Illustrated throughout to help shape the reader's knowledge and understanding of garment technology

Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products

Although we now have sophisticated algorithms and techniques for determining the shapes and sizes and for matching the fit between shoes and feet, few, if any, of the books currently available cover these new technologies until now. Bringing together high-quality and state-of-the-art contributions from designers, biomechanists, ergonomists, engineers, podiatrists, and scientists from industry and academia, The Science of Footwear provides an in-depth understanding of the technology and techniques involved in the design and development of a popular and demanding consumer product. This book introduces the design, development, manufacturing, and marketing of footwear. The chapters contain data from past research and the state-of-the art methodologies. They not only cover every aspect of the product design, but also how the footwear industry caters to the wide-ranging needs of sophisticated and demanding customers. The footwear industry has rapidly changed over the last 10 years. Mass production has changed to personalization and mass customization, areas that are not well-understood. This book explores these different concepts in a coherent way, drawing on differing views that give a holistic view of the science behind footwear. Collating information from different disciplines, the book provides the tools to develop the next generation of footwear.

This book presents a comprehensive history of handloom weaving industry in India to challenge and revise the view that competition from machine-produced textiles destroyed the country's handicrafts as claimed by historians until recently. It shows that skill-intensive handmade textiles survived the competition on a large scale, and that handmade goods and high-quality manual labour played a positive role in the making of modern India. Rich in archival material, The Crafts and Capitalism explores themes such as the historiography of craft technologies; statistical work on nineteenth-century cotton cloth production trends; narratives of merchants, the social leaders, the factory-owners; tools and techniques; and, shift from handloom to power loom. The book argues that changes in the handloom industry were central to the consolidation of new forms of capitalism in India. An important intervention in Indian economic history, this book will be useful to scholars and researchers of Indian history, economic history, colonial history, modern history, political history, labour history and political economy. It will also interest nongovernmental organizations, textile historians, and design specialists.

Clothing for Children and Teenagers: Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit addresses the complexities of developing size specifications for clothing aimed at seven to seventeen year olds. Children and teenagers experience rapid physical growth and alterations in body shape as they develop-changes that pose significant challenges in creating apparel sizing systems. The book begins by introducing the principles of apparel fit and sizing systems. Drawing on the author's own fieldwork, it goes on to discuss methods of conducting anthropometric surveys in children and teenagers, and techniques for analyzing the resulting data in order to produce successful sizing systems.

The revised version of this established textbook provides a unique introduction for students and new entrants to the clothing industry. Profusely illustrated, it sets out a panoramic view of the day-to-day operation of a clothing factory, including management, design, marketing, finance and purchasing as well as quality control and production.

The practical aspects of clothing manufacturing are explained, from the original design to deliveries to retail customers, and each of the basic planning and manufacturing technologies is described with many practical examples of their applications.

The Authors

Gerry Cooklin had over 30 years' experience in the British and Israeli clothing industries and for 12 years was deputy managing director of the Bagis Group in Israel where he was responsible for technology and development.

Dr Steven G Hayes is Senior Lecturer in Fashion Technology at The Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester.

John Mcloughlin is a Research Associate at the University of Manchester and an International Technical Consultant to the clothing industry.

Also available from Blackwell Publishing

Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes

Gerry Cooklin

0 632 02295 7

Carr & Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture

Third Edition

David J Tyler

0 6320 5248 1

The Apparel Industry

Richard Jones

0 632 05592 8

How Fashion Works

Gavin Waddell

0 632 05752 1

"Providing fundamental knowledge related to worker protection from chemical, thermal, and biological hazards, this practical reference focuses on recent scientific and technical developments in protective apparel systems. Introduces relevant health and safety legislation and rulings for worker safety "

This fourth edition of "Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear" remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements.

First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children's clothes. Today's popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic "'flat' pattern" "cutting" is used to construct the majority of children's wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children's wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade.

The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations.

Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys' and girls' measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. 'Plus' charts for heavier children have also been added.

This study of working conditions in shoemaking in the informal sector in Indonesia and the Philippines, along with their gender dimensions and national and international policy implications, is based on the author's experience in both countries during 2002, with applied qualitative research techniques: in-depth interviews and worksite visits. Intended audience: Occupational and environmental health policymakers, practitioners, and researchers; work environment specialists at international organizations; chemical safety specialists; footwear industry representatives; trade unions representing footwear employees.

She's hit the big time...hasn't she?Personal shopper, Annie Valentine, is presenting her own popular TV fashion series. But despite this being Annie's dream job, success isn't all it's cracked up to be and suddenly Annie is feeling the pressure! Especially as boyfriend Ed is left at home looking after their brand-new twin babies, whilst Annie comes to terms with fame. And as Annie gets more and more sucked into the celebrity showbiz world, she feels like she's losing more and more of who she really is. Could the big break she's always wanted, actually be a big mistake? Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review

Textiles and Human Thermophysiological Comfort in the Indoor Environment delivers a methodical assessment of textile structures for various applications in the indoor environment with respect to the thermophysiological comfort of the inhabitants. The book begins by offering an overview of the role of indoor textiles and clothing as a barrier between the environment and the human body, and then: Explores the use of textiles as an insulation barrier, examining the relationships between textiles and the environment, and textiles and the human body Details an experimental study of heat and mass transfer processes through woven textiles with different applications in the indoor environment Describes a numerical investigation of the transport of air and heat through woven fabrics by means of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) Develops, applies, and verifies an original approach for simulating the woven macrostructure as a jet system, presenting proven results Evaluates thermophysiological comfort under the influence of indoor environmental parameters, clothing insulation, and activity Textiles and Human Thermophysiological Comfort in the Indoor Environment provides a valuable reference for students and researchers working in the area of clothing comfort.

Jermyn Street in St James's, London, has been the Mecca of fine British shirtmaking for more than a century. Patrons have included Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Roger Moore, the Beatles, Warren Beatty, Pierce Brosnan, the Prince of Wales, Sir Michael Caine and Ronald Reagan. Between them, these shirtmaking artisans have styled that most debonair of onscreen heroes, James Bond. Indeed, the Jermyn Street shirt is the ultimate in entry-level luxury menswear. For many years seen as a stuffy and elitist institution, the advent of Instagram has seen the doors to the world's finest shirtmakers blown open as tailoring enthusiasts come together to share their passion. The Jermyn Street Shirt includes a wealth of sartorial showbusiness anecdotes as well as style tips from some of the big screen's most dapper stars. With unique access to many of the makers, including Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key and Budd, Jonathan Sothcott presents an expertly curated pictorial treasure trove of previously unseen ephemera, including celebrity shirt patterns and samples.