A Savile Row suite is universally understood to be the best one can buy. There is no other street in the world that has come such a byword for excellence. One tailor - Henry Poole - is responsible for this. Carefully researched and beautifully illustrated this book chronicles the evolution of Savile Row and the emergence of Henry Poole as the premier tailor with a fascinating list of clients. Throughout the world 'a Savile Row suit' is universally understood to be the very best one can possibly buy. There can be few other streets in the world that have become such a byword for excellence. One tailor more than any other is responsible for this international reputation - Henry Poole and Company. Yet how did this prominence come about? Henry Poole - The Making of a Legend is more than just the story of a company's rise to prominence. Carefully researched from the company's extensive archives, amongst many other sources, this book will fascinate the reader on a number of levels. It chronicles the evolution of Savile Row as well as encompassing a social record of Britain's international emergence. At the same time it documents how fashions have changed and progressed. The pages of Henry Poole - The Making of a Legend reflect almost two centuries of the ebb and flow of corporate survival with financial successes followed by perilous trading and near bankruptcy. Behind the discreet glamour of the bespoke tailoring trade there were dark sides; the the Row - There's no such thing as bad publicity - Goodbye to Everett Street - Royal Court and the Racecourse - Into the Row - The Life of a Gentleman - Happiness, Pride and Disater - The Burial of the Dead - Wampum and War Paint - The End of Civilisation - Poole has spoken - 1939 to 1955 - 1956 to 1970 - Return to the Row - 1986 to Present

Protective clothing protects wearers from hostile environments, including extremes of heat and cold. Whilst some types of protective clothing may be designed primarily for non-thermal hazards (e.g. biological hazards), a key challenge in all protective clothing remains wearer comfort and the management of thermal stress (i.e. excessive heat or cold). This book reviews key types of protective clothing, technologies for heating and cooling and, finally, modeling aspects of thermal stress and strain.

The invention of computer aided design (CAD) has revolutionised pattern cutting for clothing. Lectra s Modaris pattern cutting software is a key tool in pattern production. Using a practical approach and clear examples throughout, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an essential guide for all users of Lectra Modaris.
Beginning with an overview of the role of patterns in clothing manufacture, the key documents and tools of the trade are discussed before the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris are introduced. Title blocks and all aspects of digitising a clothing pattern are examined in clear, concise steps, followed by a thorough guide to the Lectra Modaris toolbox and the upper and lower toolbar menus. Creating size ranges and the importance of measurements and size charts are discussed, before the book concludes with an indispensable How do I? guide to the Lectra Modaris functions and menus, indexed by required action.
Drawing on a wealth of practical experience, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an indispensable, practical and user-friendly guide to making the most of Lectra s Modaris software for both students and professionals in textiles and fashion.
Provides an overview of the role of patterns in clothing manufacture, the key documents and tools of the tradeIntroduces the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra ModarisConcisely outlines title blocks and all aspects of digitising a clothing pattern, before providing a guide to the Lectra Modaris toolbox and upper and lower toolbar menus"

This important book provides a guide to the fundamentals and latest developments in smart technology for textiles and clothing. The contributors represent a distinguished international panel of experts and the book covers many aspects of cutting edge research and development.
Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing starts with a review of the background to smart technology and goes on to cover a wide range of the material science and fibre science aspects of the technology including: Electrically active polymeric materials and the applications of nonionic polymer gel and elastomers for artificial muscles; Thermally sensitive fibres and fabrics; Cross-linked polyol fibrous substrates stimuli-responsive interpenetrating polymer network hydrogel; Permeation control through stimuli-responsive polymer membranes; optical fibre sensors, hollow fibre membranes for gas separation; integrating fibre-formed components into textile structures; Wearable electronic and photonic technologies; Adaptive and responsive textile structures (ARTS); Biomedical applications including the applications of scaffolds in tissue engineering
It is essential reading for academics in textile and materials science departments, researchers, designers and engineers in the textiles and clothing product design field. Product managers and senior executives within textile and clothing manufacturing will also find the latest insights into technological developments in the field valuable and fascinating.

Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products

This fourth edition of "Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear" remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements.

First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children's clothes. Today's popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic "'flat' pattern" "cutting" is used to construct the majority of children's wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children's wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade.

The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations.

Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys' and girls' measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. 'Plus' charts for heavier children have also been added.

Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products

Although we now have sophisticated algorithms and techniques for determining the shapes and sizes and for matching the fit between shoes and feet, few, if any, of the books currently available cover these new technologies until now. Bringing together high-quality and state-of-the-art contributions from designers, biomechanists, ergonomists, engineers, podiatrists, and scientists from industry and academia, The Science of Footwear provides an in-depth understanding of the technology and techniques involved in the design and development of a popular and demanding consumer product. This book introduces the design, development, manufacturing, and marketing of footwear. The chapters contain data from past research and the state-of-the art methodologies. They not only cover every aspect of the product design, but also how the footwear industry caters to the wide-ranging needs of sophisticated and demanding customers. The footwear industry has rapidly changed over the last 10 years. Mass production has changed to personalization and mass customization, areas that are not well-understood. This book explores these different concepts in a coherent way, drawing on differing views that give a holistic view of the science behind footwear. Collating information from different disciplines, the book provides the tools to develop the next generation of footwear.

This book presents a comprehensive history of handloom weaving industry in India to challenge and revise the view that competition from machine-produced textiles destroyed the country's handicrafts as claimed by historians until recently. It shows that skill-intensive handmade textiles survived the competition on a large scale, and that handmade goods and high-quality manual labour played a positive role in the making of modern India. Rich in archival material, The Crafts and Capitalism explores themes such as the historiography of craft technologies; statistical work on nineteenth-century cotton cloth production trends; narratives of merchants, the social leaders, the factory-owners; tools and techniques; and, shift from handloom to power loom. The book argues that changes in the handloom industry were central to the consolidation of new forms of capitalism in India. An important intervention in Indian economic history, this book will be useful to scholars and researchers of Indian history, economic history, colonial history, modern history, political history, labour history and political economy. It will also interest nongovernmental organizations, textile historians, and design specialists.

The revised version of this established textbook provides a unique introduction for students and new entrants to the clothing industry. Profusely illustrated, it sets out a panoramic view of the day-to-day operation of a clothing factory, including management, design, marketing, finance and purchasing as well as quality control and production.

The practical aspects of clothing manufacturing are explained, from the original design to deliveries to retail customers, and each of the basic planning and manufacturing technologies is described with many practical examples of their applications.

The Authors

Gerry Cooklin had over 30 years' experience in the British and Israeli clothing industries and for 12 years was deputy managing director of the Bagis Group in Israel where he was responsible for technology and development.

Dr Steven G Hayes is Senior Lecturer in Fashion Technology at The Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester.

John Mcloughlin is a Research Associate at the University of Manchester and an International Technical Consultant to the clothing industry.

Also available from Blackwell Publishing

Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes

Gerry Cooklin

0 632 02295 7

Carr & Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture

Third Edition

David J Tyler

0 6320 5248 1

The Apparel Industry

Richard Jones

0 632 05592 8

How Fashion Works

Gavin Waddell

0 632 05752 1

This study of working conditions in shoemaking in the informal sector in Indonesia and the Philippines, along with their gender dimensions and national and international policy implications, is based on the author's experience in both countries during 2002, with applied qualitative research techniques: in-depth interviews and worksite visits. Intended audience: Occupational and environmental health policymakers, practitioners, and researchers; work environment specialists at international organizations; chemical safety specialists; footwear industry representatives; trade unions representing footwear employees.

"Providing fundamental knowledge related to worker protection from chemical, thermal, and biological hazards, this practical reference focuses on recent scientific and technical developments in protective apparel systems. Introduces relevant health and safety legislation and rulings for worker safety "

Textiles and Human Thermophysiological Comfort in the Indoor Environment delivers a methodical assessment of textile structures for various applications in the indoor environment with respect to the thermophysiological comfort of the inhabitants. The book begins by offering an overview of the role of indoor textiles and clothing as a barrier between the environment and the human body, and then: Explores the use of textiles as an insulation barrier, examining the relationships between textiles and the environment, and textiles and the human body Details an experimental study of heat and mass transfer processes through woven textiles with different applications in the indoor environment Describes a numerical investigation of the transport of air and heat through woven fabrics by means of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) Develops, applies, and verifies an original approach for simulating the woven macrostructure as a jet system, presenting proven results Evaluates thermophysiological comfort under the influence of indoor environmental parameters, clothing insulation, and activity Textiles and Human Thermophysiological Comfort in the Indoor Environment provides a valuable reference for students and researchers working in the area of clothing comfort.

Build the knowledge and understanding of garment technology essential to any designer In today's competitive fashion industry, it is essential that designers have a working understanding of garment technology. This 2nd edition has been comprehensively updated, with in-depth information on stitches, guides and attachments and sewing techniques, all of which are fully illustrated. There are enhanced chapters on machine and equipment technology explaining the uses, features and limitations of garment manufacturing equipment, enabling designers to create products that can be manufactured efficiently and with a high degree of quality. * Approached from the fashion designer's mindset, this book features illustrations to help users build their knowledge and understanding * Blends theoretical and practical material * Updated with the latest and most modern advances in clothing technology * Illustrated throughout to help shape the reader's knowledge and understanding of garment technology

Protective clothing and equipment used for firefighters protect them against their harsh working environment loaded with strong thermal hazards, elevated environmental temperatures, low oxygen concentration and smoke. This book describes an in-depth review of firefighting clothing and equipment, and explicitly addresses the performance of protection and comfort in textile engineering, clothing design, and evaluation. Covered topics include protection and comfort requirements for firefighting clothing and equipment, testing methods, standards and performance evaluation, smart firefighting clothing for first responders and numerical modeling of performance of firefighting clothing. Key Features Presents complete overview about the requirements of firefighters' protective clothing/thermal protective materials Addresses performance of protection and comfort Includes human thermoregulation system and responses to firefighting working environment Discusses SMART firefighting clothing and equipment Suggests "how to improve the wear comfort?

She's hit the big time...hasn't she?Personal shopper, Annie Valentine, is presenting her own popular TV fashion series. But despite this being Annie's dream job, success isn't all it's cracked up to be and suddenly Annie is feeling the pressure! Especially as boyfriend Ed is left at home looking after their brand-new twin babies, whilst Annie comes to terms with fame. And as Annie gets more and more sucked into the celebrity showbiz world, she feels like she's losing more and more of who she really is. Could the big break she's always wanted, actually be a big mistake? Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review

Fashion is all about image. Consequently, fashion marketing communications - encompassing image management and public relations, branding, visual merchandising, publicity campaigns, handling the media, celebrity endorsement and sponsorship, crisis management etc. - have become increasingly important in the fashion business.

This textbook for students of fashion design, fashion marketing, communications and the media sets out all that they need for the increasing number of courses in which the subject is a part.

Wear comfort has been listed as the most important property of clothing demanded by users and consumers according to recent studies. A fundamental understanding of human comfort and a knowledge of how to design textiles and garments to maximise comfort for the wearer is therefore essential in the clothing industry. Improving comfort in clothing reviews the latest developments in the manufacturing of comfortable apparel and discusses methods of improving it in various articles of clothing. The book begins by outlining the fundamentals of human comfort in clothing, from the human perception of comfort in apparel and factors which affect it such as the properties of fibres and fabrics, to laboratory testing, analysing and predicting of the comfort properties of textiles. Part two discusses methods of improving comfort in apparel, from controlling thermal comfort and managing moisture, to enhancing body movement comfort in various garments. Part three reviews methods of improving comfort whilst maintaining function in specific types of clothing such as protective garments, sports wear and cold weather clothing The international team of contributors to Improving comfort in clothing has produced a unique overview of numerous aspects of clothing comfort, provides an excellent resource for researchers and designers in the clothing industry. It will also be beneficial for academics researching wear comfort.

Protective clothing and equipment used for firefighters protect them against their harsh working environment loaded with strong thermal hazards, elevated environmental temperatures, low oxygen concentration and smoke. This book describes an in-depth review of firefighting clothing and equipment, and explicitly addresses the performance of protection and comfort in textile engineering, clothing design, and evaluation. Covered topics include protection and comfort requirements for firefighting clothing and equipment, testing methods, standards and performance evaluation, smart firefighting clothing for first responders and numerical modeling of performance of firefighting clothing. Key Features Presents complete overview about the requirements of firefighters' protective clothing/thermal protective materials Addresses performance of protection and comfort Includes human thermoregulation system and responses to firefighting working environment Discusses SMART firefighting clothing and equipment Suggests "how to improve the wear comfort?

A hot-button societal issue, sustainability has become a frequently heard term in every industrial segment. Sustainability in apparel production is a vast topic and it has many facets. Handbook of Sustainable Apparel Production covers all aspects of sustainable apparel production including the raw materials employed, sustainable manufacturing processes, and environmental as well as social assessments of apparel production. The book highlights the environmental and social impacts of apparel and its assessment. It explores the complexities involved in implementing sustainable measures in the massive supply chain of apparel production. The discussion then turns to sustainability and consumption behavior of the apparel industry and the assessment of sustainability aspects and parameters. The text details technologies that can pave the way toward sustainability in production and closes with coverage of design aspects, particularly sustainable design/eco design and new approaches to fashion sustainability. A vast and complex topic, sustainability in apparel production has many faces and facets. With contributions from an international panel of experts, this book unites all the elements, including very minute details, and supports them with detailed and interesting case studies. It gives you a framework for moving towards sustainability.

Jermyn Street in St James's, London, has been the Mecca of fine British shirtmaking for more than a century. Patrons have included Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Roger Moore, the Beatles, Warren Beatty, Pierce Brosnan, the Prince of Wales, Sir Michael Caine and Ronald Reagan. Between them, these shirtmaking artisans have styled that most debonair of onscreen heroes, James Bond. Indeed, the Jermyn Street shirt is the ultimate in entry-level luxury menswear. For many years seen as a stuffy and elitist institution, the advent of Instagram has seen the doors to the world's finest shirtmakers blown open as tailoring enthusiasts come together to share their passion. The Jermyn Street Shirt includes a wealth of sartorial showbusiness anecdotes as well as style tips from some of the big screen's most dapper stars. With unique access to many of the makers, including Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key and Budd, Jonathan Sothcott presents an expertly curated pictorial treasure trove of previously unseen ephemera, including celebrity shirt patterns and samples.

One of the greatest challenges for the apparel industry is to produce garments that fit customers properly. "Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design" addresses the need for improved characterization of our populations in order to tailor garments according to size, weight, and shape of consumers. This book reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing design.

Part one considers a range of anthropometric methods. The text discusses the range of sizing systems, including data mining techniques, useful for bridging the gap between ergonomists and designers. Chapters examine three-dimensional anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensions. Part two then explains how to analyze anthropometric data to develop appropriate sizing systems. Here, the book discusses classification and clustering of human body shapes, the importance of national surveys, and using the data obtained to ensure inclusive design strategies. The book covers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization. It considers the advantages of 3D body scanning and computer-aided design, and the use of body motion analysis to address ease allowance requirements of apparel.

With its distinguished editors and international contributors, this work is an essential reference, particularly due to the specific combination of aspects of anthropometry and the sizing of clothing, for researchers, garment designers, students, and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry.
Reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing designExamines 3D anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensionsCovers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization

"Fashion Supply Chain Management Using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technologies" looks at the application of RFID technologies in such areas as order allocation, garment manufacturing, product tracking, distribution and retail. As supply chains in the textiles and fashion industry become ever more complex and global, and as the shift to mass customization puts more pressure on a rapid and flexible response to customer needs, monitoring and improving supply chain efficiency in the industry becomes crucial. Radio frequency identification (RFID) technologies offer a unique opportunity to achieve these goals.

This book reviews the role of RFID technologies in the textiles and fashion supply chain to improve distribution, process management and product tracking, garment manufacturing, and assembly line operations. It also explores how RFID technologies can improve order allocation in the supply chain, and how these technologies can also be used for intelligent apparel product cross-selling. Its chapters also discuss measuring the impact of RFID technologies in improving the efficiency of the textile supply chain, and modeling the effectiveness of RFID technologies in improving sales performance in fashion retail outlets.

"Fashion Supply Chain Management Using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technologies" is a comprehensive resource for academic researchers, industry managers, and professionals within the fashion industry.
Looks at the application of RFID technologies in order allocation, garment manufacturing, product tracking, distribution, and retailReviews RFID technologies in the textiles and fashion supply chain for improving distribution, process management and product tracking, garment manufacturing, and assembly line operationsFocuses on measuring the impact of RFID technologies on efficiency, and modeling the effectiveness of RFID technologies in improving retail outlet sales

Given its importance for consumer satisfaction and thus brand success, apparel fit is a major challenge for retailers and brands across the industry. Consequently there have been major developments in sizing research and how it can be used in apparel design. This book reviews how these developments are affecting clothing design for different groups of consumers.
Part one identifies various aspects of body shape, size, volume and the psychological aspects of designing apparel. This section covers topics such as body shape and its influence on apparel size and consumer choices, sizing systems, body shape and weight distribution (with a discussion of the Body Volume Index (BVI) versus the Body Mass Index (BMI)), and the psychological and sociological factors influencing consumers choice of apparel. Part two outlines the challenges in understanding the sizing and shape requirements and choices of particular customer groups. This section discusses apparel designed for infants and children, older consumers, overweight and obese consumers, plus size Black and Latino women, apparel design for Asian and Caucasian ethnic groups, sizing requirements for male apparel, maternity apparel, intimate apparel for varying body shapes, and the challenges of designing headwear to fit the size and shape of Western and Asian populations.
Designing apparel for consumers provides an invaluable reference for apparel designers, manufacturers, and R&D managers in the textile industry, as well as postgraduate students and academic researchers in textiles.
Reviews developments affecting clothing design for different groups of consumersIdentifies various aspects of body shape, size, volume and the psychological aspects of designing apparelOutlines the challenges in understanding sizing and shape requirements and choices of particular customer groups"

Smart clothes and wearable technology is a relatively novel and emerging area of interdisciplinary research within the fashion, textile, electronics and related industries. This book provides a comprehensive review of the end-user s requirements and the technologies and materials available for the design and production of smart clothing.
Part one looks at the design of smart clothing and wearable technology including the emergence of wearable computing, end-user requirements, and the design process from fibre selection to product launch. Part two examines the general requirements for merging of a range of textile structures with technology and communications for wearable technologies. Part three reviews the types of production technologies available for the development of smart clothing, including garment construction and fabric joining, and the final part discusses the application of these new technologies in smart clothing products and their presentation to consumers.
Smart clothes and wearable technology is a unique and essential reference source for researchers, designers and engineers developing textiles and clothing products in this cross-disciplinary area. It is also beneficial for those in the healthcare industry and academics researching textiles, fashion and design.
Examines this emerging area of textile research including a brief history and industry overviewAssesses the technologies and materials available for the design and production of smart clothingSummarises requirements for smart textiles from both health and performance perspectives"