While the hindquarters of swine have been preserved in salt the
world over for thousands of years, there are only a few places on
earth where ham is as celebrated or integral to the cuisine as it
is in the American South. To begin to understand the place that
this iconic food holds in the hearts of southerners, Damon Lee
Fowler writes, one has only to step into the historic smokehouse of
Thomas Jefferson's Monticello and take a deep breath. More than a
century after the last hams were hung to smoke in that chamber, the
aroma of salt, smoke, and air-dried pork still permeates the rough
masonry walls and clay floor, filling the air with its earthy
perfume. Even after centuries of culinary transformations
throughout the South, that fragrance lingers in kitchens throughout
the region. Ham's 55 recipes bring home the love in just about
every way-brine- or dry-cured, smoked or not, boiled, baked,
glazed, honey-baked and spiral cut, thin-sliced and piled into
biscuits and sandwiches, fried up with eggs, with grits, with
redeye gravy, added for savor to soups, casseroles, poultry,
seafood, and, yes, the vegetable pot. Fowler also includes recipes
inspired by Chinese, French, Italian, and Spanish dishes, and
provides a guide to basic terminology and cooking methods.
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