CONTENTS include: CHAPTER I. CHAPTER II. BETWEEN ROME AND NAPLES l6
CHAPTER III. NAPLES NAPOLI ... 65 CHAPTER IV. EXCURSIONS WEST OF
NAPLES. . . . . . .152 CHAPTER V. EXCURSIONS EAST OF NAPLES IQ2
CHAPTER VI. NOLA, AVELLINO, AND BENEVENTUM 247 CHAPTER VII. IN THE
ABRUZZI . 26 1 vni CONTENTS. IN APULIA . . . . ... CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER IX. . PAGE . . 284 IN MAGNA GRAECIA EASTERN CALABRIA . . .
. 335 CHAPTER X. IN THE BASILICATA AND WESTERN CALABRIA . . . 359
SICILY . . . CHAPTER XL . . . . . . . .371 CHAPTER XII. SICILY THE
EASTERN COAST . . . . ... CHAPTER XIII. 384 GIRGENTI AND THE
SOUTHERN COAST . . . . . 457 CHAPTER XIV. PALERMO AND THE NORTHERN
COAST ., ... 476 SOUTHERN ITALY. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION: THE
attractions of Naples and its neighbourhood have always been
familiar to travelling Englishmen, but, in publishing a book on the
rest of Southern Italy, the author has an uncomfortable sense of
sending forth what few will read, and fewer still will make use of
on the spot. English travellers nearly always play at follow the
leader, and there are probably not two hundred living who have ever
explored the savage scenery of the Abruzzi, the characteristic
cathe- drals of Apulia, or the historic sites of Magna Graecia.
Except the admirable Unter-Italien of Gsell-fells, the Grande Grece
of Frangois Lenormant, and the chapters on the Abruzzi, Apulia, and
Naples, in the Italian Sculptors of C. C. Perkins, nothing of
importance has been written about these places it has not been
considered worth while even the beautiful illustrations in Lears
Journal of a Landscape Painter have failed to attract a stream of
travellers as far south as Calabria. The vastness and ugliness of
the districts tobe traversed, the bareness and filth of the inns,
the roughness of the natives, the torment of zinzare the terror of
earthquakes, the insecurity of the roads from brigands, and the far
more serious risk of malaria or typhoid fever from the bad water,
are natural causes which have hitherto frightened strangers away
from the south. But every year these risks are being mitigated, and
some of the travellers along the southern railways to Sicily may
perhaps now be induced to linger on the way, though, with the
single exception of the hotel at Reggio, the inns in Calabria are
still such as none but the hardiest tourists, will like to
encounter, and all the lower sites are seldom free from fever.
There is not, however, the same reason for hurrying through Apulia,
which is generally healthy, and where the rapid improvement of the
inns will soon permit archeologists to its explore wonderful old
cities with comfort. Every year the glorious country between Rome
and Naples is becoming better known. All the places near the
Eternal City have been already fully described in Days near Rome,
but they are more briefly noticed here, as all the cities north
ofRome will henceforward be included in Cities of Central Italy. In
the towns of the Alban, Sabine, Volscian, and Hernican hills, the
accommodation is often poor, but the inns are for the most part
clean, and travellers will almost always receive a genial and
disinter ested welcome from the kind-hearted inhabitants. The Italy
of artists is to be found more amongst these mountain districts
than in any other part of the peninsula. Here the costumes still
glow with colour, and the wonderful picturesqueness of the towns is
only equalled by the exqui- sitebeauty and variety of the scenery.
The way in which the national character alters, as Naples is
approached, must be incredible to those who have not lived in
Italy...
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