Located in the southern San Luis Valley of Colorado, the remote
and relatively unknown town of Antonito is home to an
overwhelmingly Hispanic population struggling not only to exist in
an economically depressed and politically marginalized area, but
also to preserve their culture and their lifeways. Between 1996 and
2006, anthropologist Carole Counihan collected food-centered life
histories from nineteen Mexicanas--Hispanic American women--who had
long-standing roots in the Upper Rio Grande region. The interviews
in this groundbreaking study focused on southern Colorado Hispanic
foodways--beliefs and behaviors surrounding food production,
distribution, preparation, and consumption.
In this book, Counihan features extensive excerpts from these
interviews to give voice to the women of Antonito and highlight
their perspectives. Three lines of inquiry are framed: feminist
ethnography, Latino cultural citizenship, and Chicano
environmentalism. Counihan documents how Antonito's Mexicanas
establish a sense of place and belonging through their knowledge of
land and water and use this knowledge to sustain their families and
communities. Women play an important role by gardening, canning,
and drying vegetables; earning money to buy food; cooking; and
feeding family, friends, and neighbors on ordinary and festive
occasions. They use food to solder or break relationships and to
express contrasting feelings of harmony and generosity, or enmity
and envy. The interviews in this book reveal that these Mexicanas
are resourceful providers whose food work contributes to cultural
survival.
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