Languedoc-Roussillion (not forgetting the Midi-Pyrenees and
Aquitaine) are the regions of France most settled by English
expatriate colonists. Caroline Conran has spent much time there
since the early 1970s and her collection of recipes reflect years
of travel, conversation, cooking, eating and drinking. She has
shared her knowledge with English readers in a previous book, Under
the Sun: Caroline Conran's French Country Cooking, but here she
concentrates upon this single region of Languedoc which curls up
from the Spanish border along the Mediterranean coast as far as the
Rhone valley. This is not polite France, this is 'in your face'
France; it's history buried amidst the Crusades and Cathars, its
towns and cities - Nimes, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne,
Perpignan, Montpellier, Beziers - making up a fiecely independent
region. Its people are passionate about rugby, about hunting and
foraging, with a cuisine of their own, more Southern, simpler, more
earthy, and less influence by the Michelin style of cooking than
the rest of France. There will be information on the particular
specialities such as chestnuts, sweet onions, Bouzigues mussels and
oysters, salt cod, poufres (baby octopus), charcuterie, salades
sauvages (salads of wild plants), the rose-coloured garlic of
Lautrec, wild asparagus and local mushrooms. There are descriptions
of places where oysters, truffles chestnuts or calcots - a giant
spring onion, eaten roasted on a fire of vine-prunings - are the
obsession of everyone in the community.
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