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Designing Hollywood - Studio Wardrobe in the Golden Age (Hardcover)
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Designing Hollywood - Studio Wardrobe in the Golden Age (Hardcover)
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Since the 1920s, fashion has played a central role in Hollywood. As
the movie-going population consisted largely of women, studios made
a concerted effort to attract a female audience by foregrounding
fashion. Magazines featured actresses like Jean Harlow and Joan
Crawford bedecked in luxurious gowns, selling their glamour as
enthusiastically as the film itself. Whereas actors and actresses
previously wore their own clothing, major studios hired costume
designers and wardrobe staff to fabricate bespoke costumes for
their film stars. Designers from a variety of backgrounds,
including haute couture and art design, were offered long-term
contracts to work on multiple movies. Though their work typically
went uncredited, they were charged with creating an image for each
star that would help define an actor both on- and off-screen. The
practice of working long-term with a single studio disappeared when
the studio system began unravelling in the 1950s. By the 1970s,
studios had disbanded their wardrobe departments and auctioned off
their costumes and props. In Designing Hollywood: Studio Wardrobe
in the Golden Age, Christian Esquevin showcases the designers who
dressed Hollywood's stars from the late 1910s through the 1960s and
the unique symbiosis they developed with their studios in creating
iconic looks. Studio by studio, Esquevin details the careers of
designers like Vera West, who worked on Universal productions such
as Phantom of the Opera (1925), Dracula (1931), and Bride of
Frankenstein (1931); William Travilla, the talent behind Marilyn
Monroe's dresses in Gentleman Prefer Blondes (1953) and The Seven
Year Itch (1955); and Walter Plunkett, the Oscar-winning designer
for film classics like Gone with the Wind (1939) and An American in
Paris (1951). Featuring black and white photographs of leading
ladies in their iconic looks as well as captivating original color
sketches, Designing Hollywood takes the reader on a journey from
drawing board to silver screen.
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