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Making the Cut? - Low-Income Countries and the Global Clothing Value Chain in a Post-Quota and Post-Crisis World (Paperback)
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Making the Cut? - Low-Income Countries and the Global Clothing Value Chain in a Post-Quota and Post-Crisis World (Paperback)
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The clothing sector has traditionally been a gateway to export
diversification and industrial development for low-income countries
(LICs) due to its low fix costs, relatively simple technology, and
labor-intensive nature. It has served to absorb large numbers of
unskilled, and mostly female, workers and build capital and
know-how for more technologically advanced activities within and
across sectors. But the environment for global clothing trade has
changed significantly which may condition the role the sector can
play in promoting export diversification and industrial development
in LICs today. Main drivers have been the rise of global buyers and
their global sourcing strategies, the phase out of quotas in the
Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), and, more recently, the global
economic crisis. In the context of these changes, this study
analyzes how the clothing sector can still provide a gateway to
export diversification and industrial development for LICs today.
The key objectives of this study are to assess main developments in
the global clothing sector associated with the Multi-Fiber
Arrangement (MFA) phase out, global buyers and their sourcing
strategies, and the global economic crisis; analyze challenges that
LICs are facing in the post-quota and post-crisis world in entering
and upgrading within global clothing value chains; and identify
policy recommendations to increase the competitiveness of LIC
clothing exporters as well as to further their integration into and
improve their positions within global clothing value chains. For
the study interviews with buyers in the US, the EU and South Africa
as well as case studies in Sub-Saharan African LICs (Kenya, Lesotho
and Swaziland), Cambodia and Bangladesh were conducted. The study
finds that global consolidation in the clothing sector has
increased entry barriers at the country and firm level. This has
created new challenges to LIC suppliers as low labor costs and
preferential market access are not enough to be competitive in the
clothing sector today. Suppliers with broad capabilities have been
able to develop strategic relationships with global buyers.
Marginal or new suppliers are entering the global value chains
through intermediaries, but face limited upgrading opportunities.
FDI plays an important role in integrated LICs into global clothing
value chains, yet it needs to be used in a way that promotes and
upgrades local clothing industries. Overall, the clothing sector
still provides opportunities for export diversification and
industrial development. However, this requires pro-active policies
to increase the competitiveness and local embeddedness of LIC
clothing exporters.
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