As Deirdre Clemente shows in this lively history of fashion on
American college campuses, whether it's jeans and sneakers or
khakis with a polo shirt, chances are college kids made it cool.
The modern casual American wardrobe, Clemente argues, was born in
the classrooms, dormitories, fraternity and sorority houses, and
gyms of universities and colleges across the country. As young
people gained increasing social and cultural clout during the early
twentieth century, their tastes transformed mainstream fashion from
collared and corseted to comfortable. From east coast to west and
from the Ivy League to historically black colleges and
universities, changing styles reflected new ways of defining the
value of personal appearance, and, by extension, new possibilities
for creating one's identity. The pace of change in fashion options,
however, was hardly equal. Race, class, and gender shaped the
adoption of casual style, and young women faced particular backlash
both from older generations and from their male peers.
Nevertheless, as coeds fought dress codes and stereotypes, they
joined men in pushing new styles beyond the campus, into dance
halls, theaters, homes, and workplaces. Thanks to these shifts,
today's casual style provides a middle ground for people of all
backgrounds, redefining the meaning of appearance in American
culture.
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