Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Decorative arts & crafts > Jewellery & jewellery-making
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Surviving Desires - Making and Selling Jewellery in the American Southwest (Paperback)
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Surviving Desires - Making and Selling Jewellery in the American Southwest (Paperback)
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Native American jewellery of the Southwestern United States in its
classic union of white metal and blue turquoise is an iconic form
and the focus of this strikingly illustrated new publication.
Internationally recognized and locally significant, Native American
jewellery has a compelling history which represents the persistence
of tradition while encapsulating the vitality of Native American
communities and the continuously transforming nature of their
contemporary artistic practice. As a traditional item of adornment
it can be understood through the complex histories of making and
the development of locally important styles and materials.
Situating jewellery in the cultural economy of the American
Southwest, this publication explores Southwestern jewellery as a
decorative form in constant transition. It describes this rich
tradition as subject to a number of desires, fostered and
regulated, at different times, by government agencies, individual
entrepreneurs, traders, curators and Native American communities.
It presents a series of perspectives on Southwest Native American
jewellery and explores questions relating to Native American
jewellery's identity as craft, material culture, commodity and
adornment. Considering the impact of tourism, it discusses the
phenomenon of fakes and the related desire to codify tradition and
traditional styles, and how these affect stylistic development and
value. In describing the markets, the markers and the work, the
book suggests the complexity and reinvention that is innate to
Native jewellery as a commercial craft. The book also examines
British activities as regards to collecting, bringing to prominence
fieldwork and exchanges between British and American institutions.
It traces the networks of individuals, makers and institutions that
facilitated the emergence of UK collections from the 1890s to the
1990s, including an account of the activities that led to the
development of the British Museum's contemporary collection. The
book draws heavily on the author's archival and fieldwork research
(undertaken since 1997) which includes interviews with Native
American jewellers, as well as traders, dealers and curators within
the field. Illustrated with objects from the British Museum's
collection and drawing from a wide range of historical and
contemporary sources, this book explores the symbolic, economic and
communal value of Southwestern jewellery today.
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