This is the first comprehensive and fully illustrated study of silver vessels from ancient Macedonia from the 4th to the 2nd centuries BC. These precious vessels formed part of dining sets owned by the royal family and the elite and have been discovered in the tombs of their owners. Eleni Zimi presents 171 artifacts in a full-length study of form, decoration, inscriptions and manufacturing techniques, set against contemporary comparanda in other media (clay, bronze, glass). She adopts an art historical and sociological approach to the archaeological evidence and demonstrates that the use of silver vessels as an expression of wealth and a status symbol is not only connected with the wealth spread in the empire after Alexander's the Great expedition to the East, but constitutes a practice reflecting the opulence and appreciation for luxury at least in the Macedonian court from the reign of Philip II onwards.

A complete and practical guide to using precious and semi-precious stones in any metal - from traditional settings to contemporary looks. This is a detailed, technical guide to stone-setting for jewellers and jewellery students. It explores traditional, modern and experimental approaches to stone-setting, from the purely functional to design-led solutions for securing stones. This book takes you through the entire process of setting stones from choosing a suitable stone, designing and making the setting, to seating and setting the stone. The extensive setting techniques are combined with step-by-step demonstrations, precise diagrams and images of contemporary work from international jewellers. A comprehensive reference section, featuring an illustrated glossary, makes this book the essential stone-setting resource for both students and professional jewellers. Demonstrations produced using 3D modelling software provide the most up-to-date reflection of current practice and technology, and allow explanations of skills and techniques to be presented with expert accuracy. This book is the perfect resource for jewellers of all levels.

Beautifully illustrated throughout, this distinctive collection will give an insight into the work of an English, twentieth century, master goldsmith.Each photograph is of a unique piece, showing that the skills of a traditionally trained goldsmith can still create gold and silver pieces that can rival that of the past revered Russian master goldsmiths.This book will be of interest to anyone who can appreciate and is interested in the skills of a master goldsmith, and one who takes pleasure in including flora and fauna, made from precious metals, into many of his designs and finished pieces.

Precious metal wire is a versatile material that can be used to great advantage in jewellery design. This book focuses on using soldering techniques to confidently construct wearable wire jewellery designs. It incorporates fundamental skills such as cutting, filing, annealing and soldering, and encourages the maker to master these basic techniques, so they can create individual articles of wire jewellery using their own inspiration and designs.

The prowess of Chinese creative abilities in the decorative arts in the 19th and early 20th centuries was well known globally, but, while much has been written about Chinese textiles and on the influence of the East on European styles of the time, the story of the influence of Western formats and tastes on the manufacture of Chinese jewellery in the period has, amazingly, never been told. In examining 50 objects of exatraordinary quality from an important private North American collection, this book seeks to redress the situation and reveal the splendour of silver and silver-gilt jewellery of the late Qing dynasty. An ancient and sophisticated culture, the Chinese - who have since records begun made up about a quarter of world's population - had almost everything they could need or want within their own borders ...except for silver. The metal had long cultural, commercial and governmental associations but had to be imported largely from South America, after both national and Japanese reserves were quickly exhausted by huge Chinese demand. Beginning in the mid 19th century - where the story told here begins - after two successive defeats in the Opium Wars, sixteen treaty ports were established on coastal and inland cities, enabling Western merchants freer movement and trade with the Chinese. The 50 pieces of jewellery and ornament presented here have been beautifully photographed and carefully documented. In superb unrestored condition, the objects incorporate exotic materials like tiger-shark teeth, teak wood, amber, precious and semi-precious stones from India and Sri Lanka, enamel, as well as finely carved and pierced nephrite, jadeite and lapis lazuli. Daoist imagery and motifs dominate but with the inclusion of some surprising Buddhist imagery as well. Though not from the imperial collection of the Qing, these exquisite pieces were seemingly commissioned and worn by prosperous members of the society from all over the vast country. The differences in manufacture, even in this varied sample of 50 items, is striking. Their appeal is more than just aesthetic, and their design and decoration speak of the social, religious, economic and political climate of their time. Questions regarding the sale and consumption of these object are discussed, and changing local and foreign tastes in the wake of the fall of the Qing dynasty and the establishment of the Republican period are also addressed.

In Craftsmen and Jewelers in the Middle and Lower Danube Region (6th to 7th Centuries) Daniela Tanase examines the practice of metalworking with the aim of comparing the archaeological evidence of different peoples in the Middle and Lower Danube in the Early Middle Ages, with a particular focus on blacksmithing, goldsmithing and burial customs. Evidence suggests that the distinction between these specialties was quite fluid, so blacksmiths could craft jewelery, while jewelers were able to create tools and weapons. The study also reveals how the production process and the main techniques employed by craftsmen for the ornamentation of dress and accessories were subject to multiple influences, from Byzantium, the eastern steppe, and the Merovingian kingdoms.

A masterpiece of medieval Arab metalwork revealed, shedding light on courtly life in northern Iraq under the Mongol governorship. Accompanying a major scholarly exhibition at The Courtauld Gallery, this book explores one of the most beautiful and enigmatic objects in The Courtauld's collection: the so-called 'Courtauld wallet', a brass container richly inlaid with gold and silver, imitating a lady's textile or leather bag, and probably made in Mosul in northern Iraq around 1300. No other object of this kind is known. Decorated all round with courtly figures and on the top with an elaborate banqueting scene featuring an enthroned couple, it has long been recognised as a masterpiece of Arab metalwork. Yet, despite the superb quality of its design and craftsmanship and its status as a unique object, this exceptional metalwork bag has never been properly published. Thus it remains little known outside a small circle of specialists, and little understood even within that circle. Encompassing a variety of multidisciplinary essays by distinguished historians and art historians- on subjects ranging from music at the Mongol court, Mosul under Mongol governorship and Mongol marriage customs to the role of women under the Ilkhanids-this publication aims to explore the origins, function and iconography of this splendid luxury object as well as the cultural context in which it was made and used. It will bring together other images of enthroned Mongols with female consorts, as well as scenes of hunters, revellers and musicians in a variety of media, including illustrated manuscripts, ceramics, textile, and metalwork. By presenting the bag alongside carefully selected contemporary material, it will provide an insight into courtly life under the Mongols in the newly conquered areas of their empire, and will also provide an unrivalled opportunity to investigate the inlaid brass tradition in Mosul after the Mongol Conquest. Objects made before and after this seismic event will be reproduced side by side to demonstrate how the Mosul metalworkers adapted their work for their new patrons.

Tiaras have always inspired a great fascination and the most beautiful and influential women have been painted, photographed and admired whilst wearing them. Even in the 21st century they are still worn and continue to inspire special poise, elegance and sophistication. This lavishly illustrated book includes exclusive photographs, many repro duced for the first time, of a variety of Royal tiaras together with those of French and Russian Imperial provenance, including four stunning tiaras designed by Prince Albert for Queen Victoria. Geoffrey Munn has also been granted privileged access to the archives of many famous jewellers, including Boucheron, Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels and Faberge, for his research. The regal images of some of the most prestigious jewels in the world will captivate the reader and ensure turning the page to the next enticing image becomes irresistible. Many of these mes merising tiaras also have great historical signifi cance and their provenance is fully explained here. Among the con temporary pieces referred to are tiaras belonging to Jamie Lee Curtis, Vivienne Westwood, Elton John and Madonna, that were made by Galliano, Slim Barratt and Versace. The scholarly text, which incorporates more than 400 illustrations, includes chapters on tiaras as crown jewels, Russian style tiaras, tiaras as works of art and the relationship between the tiara and the costume ball. Tiaras - A History of Splendour is a magnificent work that will enthral all those interested in fashion and style, jewellery, European history and Royalty. "... beautifully written and magnificently produced... for anyone interested in social history, it's as good a read as you are likely to have this year." Daily Telegraph "A truly majestic book" Antiques Info "... elegantly melds social history, fashion criticism and an appreciation of the jeweler's art." Town & Country

This work, published on the 94th birthday of Diana Scarisbrick, honours her extraordinary career as the 'world's leading jewellery historian'. Twenty scholars, most of whom have known and benefited from Scarisbrick's vast knowledge over many decades, have contributed essays to this book. Liber Amicorum centres around the historian to which it is dedicated, Diana Scarisbrick. The work of the twenty contributors owes much to her own pioneering research in the feeled of jewellery history. The book opens with a brief biographical summary of Scarisbrick's life before exploring her assiduous work in the field of jewellery history. A subsequent bibliography of Scarisbrick's career work is provided which includes articles, interviews, and books published from 1970 to the present day, and serves as evidence of her eminence. The work as a whole functions as a 'small token of appreciation for all that she has contributed to the world of jewellery history'. The essays in this publication cover topics that range from Roman jewellery to the contemporary production of jewellery. Not constrained by a focus on one particular time period, these essays are indicative of the breadth of influence that Diana Scarisbrick's career has had. Contributions cover several different themes: amongst the objects discussed are gems, rings, chalices, bindings and crown jewels. The themes covered include jewel theft, methods of jewellery production, and the collections of individuals. Throughout each essay the insightful historical research of the contributors is beautifully supported by high quality illustrations. These bring the book to life, highlighting the splendour and fragility of some of the objects that are dicussed.

This new guide is the first to explore all facets of Native American jewelry--its history, variety, and quality--in one convenient resource. With coverage beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, this resource includes artists, techniques, materials, motifs, and more. The encyclopedia opens with helpful introductory essay to acquaint the reader with the subject. More than 350 entries and over 80 photos make this new encyclopedia and exceptional value.

Silver is an exciting and versatile material for jewellery makers, both beginners and the more advanced, and nothing beats the satisfaction of creating and making your own designs. This book shows you how. Full of inspiring ideas and finished pieces, it explains over forty processes including the more advanced techniques such as fold forming and keum-boo and encourages the reader to experiment with their own designs. Further topics include step-by-step explanations with bench tips from the author's own experience; advice on the jewellery process, including how to gather inspiration for designs and considerations for making wearable jewellery. Finally, there is a chapter dedicated to the surface finishing and polishing of silver to give your designs a professional finish.

"...here's eye candy on every page of the book." - Natural Diamonds This sumptuous book showcases the work of women jewellers in the 20th century. Beginning with Arts & Crafts jewellers in Britain, Europe and North America, the author then examines the key figures and movements of the pre-war period including Coco Chanel's legendary 'Bijoux de Diamants' exhibition of 1932, the designs of Suzanne Belperron and the roles of Jeanne Toussaint at Cartier and Renee Puissant at Van Cleef & Arpels. From the 1950s to the present day, a wide range of international designers are examined in detail with many examples of their work clearly illustrated. The author focuses on themes associated with jewellery, including colour, light, proportion, nature and legends. Among the many names included are Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube (designer for Georg Jensen), Margaret De Patta, Wendy Ramshaw, Angela Cummings, Paloma Picasso, Marina B, Lydia Courteille and Michelle Ong. Jewellery firms include: Boivin, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jensen, Tiffany & Co. Designers featured: Alma Pihl, Coco Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard, Olga Tritt, Elisabeth Treskow, Margaret de Patta, Jeanne Toussaint, Line Vautrin, Margret Craver, Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube, Nanna Ditzel, Marianne Ostier, Barbara Anton, Gerda Floeckinger, Astrid Fog, Cornelia Roethel, Catherine Noll, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, Wendy Ramshaw, Marina B, Marie-Caroline de Brosses, Marilyn Cooperman, Paloma Picasso, Victoire de Castellane, Alexandra Mor, Ornella Iannuzzi, Neha Dani, Paula Crevoshay, Nathalie Castro, Claire Choisne, Bina Goenka, Carla Amorim, Monique Pean, Michelle Ong - Carnet, Kara Ross, Lydia Courteille, Suzanne Syz, Sylvie Corbelin, Kaoru Kay Akihara - Gimel, Katey Brunini, Luz Camino, Cindy Chao, Aida Bergsen, Anna Hu, Barbara Heinrich, Jacqueline Cullen, Cynthia Bach.

In the dynamic first quarter of the 20th century, Louis Comfort Tiffany and his Tiffany Studios in New York City produced 24 distinctly different bronze desk-set patterns with nearly 1,000 different items sold separately, so that successful business leaders could decide which and how many they could arrange on their desks. The typical set might include inkwell, pen tray, paper rack, rocker blotter, and decorative ends for the desk blotter. Some patterns have a dozen or fewer items, but a few patterns have about 80 items available. Over 600 color photographs show most of the desk set items, with carefully researched text, including their Tiffany item numbers, markings, sizes, related pieces, and rarity, and an indispensible Master List of all the original Tiffany Studios items, including lamps, planters, match holders, etc., in numerical order. It will help to identify pieces never seen before and mismatched and put-together items. This is the most comprehensice collecting guide to the subject..

A complete guide to identifying, buying, using and caring for a dazzling array of jewels. A complete reference for goldsmiths, collectors, and jewellery makers, this beautiful book is a comprehensive guide to identifying, buying, using and caring for a dazzling array of jewels and gems. The book includes practical advice on how to assess the quality, rarity, grade, durability, and cut of precious and semi-precious stones, and allows you to discover the origins of gemstones and understand the process of selecting the raw material. Learn how gems are calibrated, using the industry standard measurements of carats and points, and how they can be treated to improve both colour and clarity - a handy glossary contains all of the key terminology you need to know. Thanks to colourful illustrations and photographs, you can identify which gemstones are suitable for jewellery-making, from amethysts and diamonds to tourmaline and quartz, and learn how they can be used in different designs and settings.

This book is the catalog for two of the first major exhibits to show only modernist jewelry from such a broad group of artists. Both take place in 2008 in Fort Wayne, Indiana: one at The Fort Wayne Museum of Art (May 2 to August 24) and the other at The University of St. Francis School of Creative Arts (May 2 to May 30). Over fifty collectors and living art jewelers have lent some of the best examples of this innovative style. Sculptors Alexander Calder, Harry Bertoia, Jose de Rivera, Peter and Daniel Macchiarini, Earl and Tod Pardon, and merry rank are among the 96 artists featured, along with their extensive jewelry creations. Their work was experimental and stimulated originality in successive generations. Plastics, pearls, brass, copper, silver, gold, and enamels are among the materials found here in mini-sculptures and jewelry ornaments for men and women alike. The author's extensive research uncovers connections among the artists and documents this important art period and medium. Artists, collectors, cultural historians, and students all will want to see the exhibits and own the catalog.

"Understanding Jewellery is a love letter to glorious pieces from the last hundred years." -M. J. Rose, The Adventurine "An enjoyably scholarly romp through the past and a feast for the eyes for the novice and the consummate jewelry fan and collector."-Beth Bernstein, Forbes "A must-have coffee table book for jewellery aficionados..." -Elisa Vallata, Departures International "As with stocks, education is the way to begin. There are many excellent books on the jewelry market, but start with Understanding Jewellery, the industry bible by two former Sotheby's jewelry executives, David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti." -Bloomberg Understanding Jewellery, by authors David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, is often described as the must-have jewellery book of our time - a 'Bible' in the jewellery trade. First published in 1989, it has remained in print ever since, amassing a loyal following of devotees who admire its detailed information and stunning imagery. In this new work, Bennett and Mascetti have taken the original concept of Understanding Jewellery a stage further. Now, with the benefit of 20 years of hindsight, they have concentrated on the 20th century alone by conducting a detailed survey of each decade, identifying the key players, trends and movements. The book is an encyclopedic history of the various forms, techniques and materials employed by the companies and individuals who defined jewellery in the 20th century. Most significantly, this book includes a new set of photographs, which make Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century one of the most dazzling, absorbing and varied collections of jewellery images ever assembled in a book. This large format hardback volume is a perfect gift for all lovers of jewellery and the definitive guide for those who desire a deeper understanding of the subject.

Edith Sitwell, Margot Fonteyn, Frank Sinatra, Yul Brynner, Barbra Streisand and Vivienne Westwood are just a few of the luminaries who have visited Wartski's showrooms, lured by a dazzling array of gems, jewellery, goldsmiths' work and the famous Faberge collection.Geoffrey Munn, managing director of Wartski, tells the remarkable story of how the firm rose from humble beginnings in Bangor, North Wales, to become jewellers to six generations of the British Royal family and famous throughout the world. The lively text of Wartski: The First Hundred and Fifty Years will be a source of deep fascination to all enthusiasts of jewellery, European royalty, Faberge and, in particular, celebrities from every walk of life.