Since the beginning of his creative work in 1980, Georg Dobler, the jewellery artist and lecturer at the University of Applied Arts and Science in Hildesheim, has engaged in working with geometrical forms. Also in the mid 1980s, when he first drew on naturalistic elements, provoking an outcry in the jewellery world, his work was still bound by geometrical dimensions. It was exactly because naturalism was viewed as outmoded, however, that Dobler was viewed as a pioneer by the next generation of auteur jewellery designers. The artist complements his casts from nature (exotic plants and beetles) - Dobler sees himself as a collector of structures and forms - with large, facetted stones as an artistic addition. Yellow to orange-glowing lemon citrine and tender lilac amethysts combine with the metal surfaces to create a shimmering play of colours. Pure silver is seldom found in Dobler's work; his trademark is rather black chromium or oxidized silver surfaces that shine in iridescent black. Georg Dobler is not only a pioneer, he also finds inspiration among the great artists of early modern art. Thus in the mid 1990s he drew on the abstract paintings of a Piet Mondrian, Wassily Kandinsky or Kazimir Malevich, who ignited his fantasy and inspired his compositions. Exhibition in the Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe, Hamburg, November/December 2010 and further venues in Pforzheim, Hanau, Bielefeld and Berlin in 2011.

The breadth of National Museums Scotland's collections, together with the support of The Glenmorangie Company, puts National Museums in a unique position to reveal the role of silver in the development of the first kingdoms of Scotland. It was silver, not gold, which was the most important and powerful precious metal in Scotland for over six hundred years and, as well as showcasing beautiful objects, the book builds on the Glenmorangie Research Project to gives fresh insights into this formative period of Scottish history. Based on the exhibition Scotland's Early Silver which was at the National Museum of Scotland and is now on tour.

As one of the key players of modern jewellery in the '20s, Paul Brandt worked with the most famous jewellers of his time, like Fouquet or Sandoz. He followed eclectic studies in Paris (jewellery, painting, sculpture, medals and stones engraving, chiselling, etc) and finally decided to specialise in jewellery design. With his first creations he joined the art nouveau movement before focusing on an art deco style. He took part in the International Exhibition of Decorative Art of 1925 both as an artist and a jury member. Paul Brandt considered his jewellery as works of art in their own right and displayed them during exhibitions where the scenography kept getting more innovative. From the '30s, he extended his activity to interior design. This monograph displays the talent of this major artist who left his mark in France and abroad. Recounting his whole career, it highlights the extent of Paul Brandt's skills, not only in jewellery but also in medal making, decoration and interior design. Text in French.

Probably no Native American handicrafts are more widely admired than Navajo weaving and Navajo and Pueblo silver work. This book, which is now in its third large printing, contains the most important and complete account of Indian jewelry fashioned by the Navajo, the Zuni, the Hopi, and other Pueblo peoples. ""With the care of a meticulous and thorough scholar, the author has told the story of his several years' investigation of jewelry making among the Southwestern Indians,"" says The Dallas Times Herald. ""So richly decorative are the plates he uses ... that the conscientious narrative is surrounded by an atmosphere of genuinely exciting visual experience."" John Adair is a trained ethnologist who has lived and worked among these Indians.To prepare his book, Mr. Adair made an exhaustive examination of the principal museum collections of Navajo and Pueblo silver work, both early and modem, in Santa Fe, Colorado Springs, Chicago, New York, and Philadelphia. He visited trading posts in the Indian country and examined and photographed silver on the pawn racks and in important private collections. He lived for a time among the Navajo, watched them make their jewelry, and actually learned to work silver himself in the hogan of one of the leading artisans, Tom Burnsides. Many of the photographs he made at the time are used as illustrations in this book. He spent months among the Indians in New Mexico and Arizona and became personally acquainted with many of their silversmiths. Later, as field worker for the Indian Arts and Crafts Board, he studied the economics of Navajo and Pueblo silversmithing; and still later he became manager of the Navajo Arts and Crafts Guild, a tribal enterprise. The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths provides a full history of the craft and the actual names and localities of the pioneer craftsmen who introduced the art of the silversmith to their people. Despite its present high stage of development, with its many subtle and often exquisite designs, the art of working silver is not an ancient one among the Navajo and Pueblo Indians. There are men still living today who remember the very first silversmiths. Mr. Adair gives full details, as he observed them, of the methods and techniques of manufacture over a primitive forge with homemade tools. He tells both of the fine pieces made for trade among the Indians themselves and of the newer, cheaper types of jewelry produced for sale to tourists. He discusses standards and qualities of Indian silver and describes the work of the Indian schools in helping preserve traditional design in the fine silver of today. His excellent photographs of some of the most notable pieces, old and new, provide examples for evaluation. This volume, therefore, will serve the layman, the ethnologist, and the dealer alike as a guide to proper values in Indian silver jewelry, and will provide the basis for authoritative knowledge and appreciation of a highly skilled creative art.

Chus Bures creates miracles. Each piece of jewellery that emerges from his workshop boasts a complex genesis, stemming from an intersection between his genius-level thought processes and his maverick lifestyle. From exploring the versatility of buttons, to accentuating the geometric planes of the human body (Infinity Lines, 1990), and using minerals to emulate and exaggerate human features (seen in the striking 'Mae Nam' Collection of 2000), Bures' work is always perplexing, always stimulating, and always innovative. He refuses to be cowed by convention, and delights in challenging his clients and models. The bodily focus of his work makes every piece a startling, and often uncomfortable, insight into humanity. Bures may be a maestro of metal - the gauzy chainmail-esque veils in his Crochet collection, 2000, attest to that. Yet he has mastered the emotional dimensions of his jewellery as well as its physical properties. The relationship between his pieces and the people who collect and cherish them is essential to his artistic praxis. In Chus Bures, Portraits & Jewellery (2016), this is realised through a series of intense portraits by Antoine d'Agata, Alberto Garcia-Alix, and Andres Serrano. These pictures reveal a transgressive melding of jewel and subject: man becomes metal and metal becomes man. Watch ideas take on physical form, and immerse yourself in Bures' world of wearable art.

Evert Nijland (b. 1971) is one of the leading jewellery artists of his generation. Trained in the Conceptual Art and Minimalism of the 1990s at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, he developed a flamboyant and exuberant style, which drew on (art-) historical resources yet is thoroughly anchored in the present. A typical characteristic of Nijland is working with a variety of artisans. It enables him to integrate such diverse materials as porcelain, wood, textile or steel into his works. His use of glass in jewellery, in particular, is unparalleled. This publication presents an exciting review in opulent photographs of Evert Nijland's jewellery-making over twenty years. Montages of images are a particular highlight, in which jewellery from works of Western art is superimposed, serving Nijland as both a reference and a source of inspiration. Text in English and Dutch.

"When I am working with colours, I feel like a painter. When I am working with metal, I feel like a constructor. And when I am working with toys, I feel like a child." (Felieke van der Leest). The work of Dutch jewellery and object artist Felieke van der Leest (born in 1968) expresses the very special affection that she has for animals. With unbridled fantasy she creates pieces that ostentatiously, colourfully and playfully revolve around her little friends. She combines techniques used in textile work, such as crochet, with valuable metals and plastic toy animals. Within the international art jewellery scene she has developed her own special language with which she narrates intelligent and witty stories with her animal protagonists; her pieces inevitably conjure a smile upon the faces of those who view them. Characteristic for Van der Leest is the joy in her work, which is ever present yet sometimes carried off into childhood. Serious themes in her work are also expressed, including environmental protection and human approaches to animals. The current publication comprises jewellery and objects by the renowned artist from 1996 to the present.

The Museo del Gioiello in Vicenza - the only example in Italy entirely dedicated to jewellery - is renewed every two years: without permanent collections, it offers biennial exhibitions of unique and exclusive jewels in the evocative spaces of the Basilica Palladiana. For the third biennium since its inauguration (on display until 2020), the museum hosts 310 pieces of inestimable value, exhibited in nine thematic sections curated by as many internationally renowned experts. In presenting the masterpieces of this exhibition, this catalogue gathers the contributions of the curators which, far from the usual museum criteria of chronological or stylistic classification, restore the complexity of the jewel through multiple points of view, where the ancient dialogues with the contemporary and the masterpieces of the past are juxtaposed with those made with the technologies of the future. Text in English and Italian.

Linda MacNeil: Jewels of Glass is the first in-depth monograph to explore the development of leading American jeweller Linda MacNeil's jewellery and her contribution to late twentieth- and twenty-first century jewellery. MacNeil has inserted her voice into contemporary American jewellery as an innovator transforming glass into proxies for precious gemstones. She and her work have straddled the fields of Studio Glass and Studio Jewellery. A pioneer over her forty-and-counting-year career, she has united glass with metal and, recently, with precious gems. Exploring materiality and methodology, she uses historical precedent as a jumping off point to make stunning, wearable jewellery. This scholarly study presents approximately fifty of MacNeil's most significant pieces. Davira S. Taragin's essay interweaves MacNeil's biography with discussions of the development of her aesthetic. Noted jewellery historian Ursula Ilse-Neuman contextualises MacNeil's achievement within the art jewellery movement in general and the use of glass in jewellery over the centuries.

The Wellby Bequest, received by the Ashmolean Museum in 2013, consists of some 500 precious and exotic objects, mainly from Continental Europe, from the late medieval to the rococo, and is the most remarkable accession of this kind of material to any museum in the UK since the bequest of Ferdinand de Rothschild to the British Museum in 1898 (the Waddesdon Bequest). The collection was assembled by three generations of the Wellby family with an intention that it should reflect the great princely treasure chambers (Kunstkammer) preserved in Dresden, Vienna, Innsbruck, and elsewhere. Many of these objects have never been previously published. This beautiful and accessible book introduces over sixty of the prime pieces from this astonishing addition to the Ashmolean, presenting material of the type incomparably superior to anything in other UK museums outside London. Both authors are specialists in European decorative arts of the Renaissance and later periods.

The Cincinnati Art Museum holds over 400 pieces of silver designed, crafted, and sold in its city. With its founding in 1788, Cincinnati established itself as a leading centre for the luxury silver trade in the United States. Cincinnati Silver: 1788 -1940 traces the silver industry in the Queen City from the early years of production before the Civil War, through the growth of mechanisation and mass production, and into the Arts and Crafts and Art Deco periods. As the first comprehensive volume to be published on this subject in nearly forty years, Cincinnati Silver: 1788-1940 is a vital resource for scholars, collectors, and enthusiasts of American silver, as well as those interested in American material culture and the development of eighteenth - and nineteenth - century commerce. With stunning colour photography and in-depth research, this volume recounts the complex and fascinating story of the development of one of America's most important cities.

Explaining the potential dangers facing our world, this series offers positive suggestions for securing our future. The books demystify terms such as global warming, acid rain and ozone layer and discuss how real the dangers are, what is being done today and what can be done in the future. The titles should provide a useful resource for students studying areas of the curriculum involving science, technology, geography and environmental studies. This title examines the concept of a thirsty world.

Why has jewellery and body adornment often been marginalized in studies of modernist art and design? This study explores the relationship between jewellery, modernism and modernity from the 'jazz age' to the second world war in order to challenge the view that these portable art forms have only a minor role to play in histories of modernism. From the masterworks of the Parisian jewellery houses to the film and photography of Man Ray, this study seeks to present jewellery in a new light, where issues of representation and display are considered to be as important in the creation of a modern 'jewellery culture' as the objects themselves. Drawing on material from museums, archives, contemporary journals, memoirs, literary and theoretical texts, this study shows how the emergence of modern jewellery began to seriously question conventional notions of body adornment.

The Collection was begun by the First Duchess of Northumberland in the early eighteenth century; but the greater part of it was made later in the century by Algernon Percy, First Earl of Beverley, during a tour of Europe while in the company of his mentor, Louis Dutens. Their success in France and Italy was such that it incited the jealousy of the Empress Catherine of Russia, herself a passionate collector. The range of objects - cameos, intaglios and finger rings of the highest quality - is considerable: Greek, Roman and Etruscan, as well as a notable assemblage of neoclassical signed gems by British artists. One jewel clearly provided inspiration for Michelangelo's painting of Adam on the Sistine Chapel ceiling. The Collection is little known, except by connoisseurs, but this volume brings to the attention of a broader audience many of the finest products of one of the oldest arts of the western world.

Gail Bird (Santo Domingo/Laguna) and Yazzie Johnson (Navajo) have been making jewellery together since 1972 and are considered among the first rank of Native American artists. SHARED IMAGES is a retrospective of their career in the decorative arts, spanning the early 1970s to the present. The jewellery creations of Johnson and Bird are frequently dramatic, always wearable, and compositionally arresting. Their use of non-traditional stones and uncommon juxtapositions of materials has earned them a place in the world of contemporary art alongside the most influential jewellers of their generation. Drawing inspiration from prehistoric pictograph and petroglyph sites, Johnson and Bird have developed a distinctive set of designs that continue to inspire contemporary creations. SHARED IMAGES emphasises the forty-six thematic belts that have won the artists well-deserved acclaim at Santa Fe's annual Indian Arts Market. The book documents Johnson and Bird's collaborative process and features a range of exemplary pieces shown in museums and galleries across the country. Published in association with the Heard Museum.

Alongside Erasmus of Rotterdam, Johannes Reuchlin (1455-1522) is one of the most important European humanists whose works marked the transition from the Middle Ages to the modern era. The year 2022 marks the 500th anniversary of the Pforzheim-born jurist, Hebraist, and religious philosopher's death, cause indeed for an exhibition and publication to bring jewellery, writings, and language into a stimulating dialogue and to offer new meanings to the titular mystery of signs. At the fore stands the human quest for understanding and tolerance, which has lost none of its relevance today. One particular focal point comprises selected manuscripts and works by Reuchlin, highlighted from new perspectives. An additional emphasis is placed on objects that reflect Reuchlin's cognitive world through script and symbols from the resplendent collection of the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim [Pforzheim jewellery museum]. With contributions by Jonathan Boyd, Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, Matthias Dall'Asta, Cornelie Holzach, Wolfgang Mayer, Susanne Nagel, Katja Poljanac, Stefan Rhein, Nathan Ron, Isabel Schmidt-Mappes, Pierre Vesperin, and Anja Wolkenhauer. Text in German.