Silver, porcelain and ruby glass seem unlikely bedfellows, yet the objects in the Zilkha Collection are all united by the medium of silver or luxury metalwork. The objects were also made, for the most part, over about a century and a half. All of them tell a fascinating story of the particular circumstances that produced them: a maker, a workshop, a patron. They also tell the wider story of the society that made them necessary or desirable; the science that made them possible; and of their survival down the centuries. Therefore their appeal is more than just aesthetic, and their design and decoration often speak of the intellectual or religious climate of their time. This book, which will be of interest to serious students of the decorative arts, has a wider purpose too: it aims to show something of these old objects in the context of an early twenty-first-century Californian home and in the lives and interests of the collectors who have brought them together.

An updated edition of the best-selling handbook, this all-encompassing guide for jewellery entrepreneurs of all levels covers key lessons for setting up, running and growing a jewellery business. From the college graduate looking to set up a workshop, to the established maker ready to expand their business, Setting up a Successful Jewellery Business equips creative jewellers with the essential knowledge and tools to operate a professional jewellery business. Encouraging individuals to define their business objectives and strategy for the future, the guide deals with topics including: * presenting your brand; * protecting your designs; * how much to charge for your work; * selling to shops, galleries and individuals; * creating your website and driving traffic to it; * managing your time and finances plus other essential business skills. Updated with two new chapters, an expanded section on social media and a revised appendix, this is an indispensable jeweller's companion that provides the resources to take your business forward.

Sculpture was no occupation for a lady in Victorian Britain. Yet between 1837 and 1901 the number of professional female sculptors increased sixteen-fold. The four principal women sculptors of that era are the focus of this book. Once known for successful careers marked by commissions from the royal family, public bodies and private individuals, they are forgotten now. This book brings them back to light, addressing who they were, how they negotiated middle-class expectations and what kind of impact they had on changing gender roles. Based on their unpublished letters, papers and diaries coupled with contemporary portrayals of female sculptors by novelists, critics, essayists and colleagues, this is an unprecedented picture of the women sculptors' personal experience of preparing for and conducting careers as well as the public's perception of them. The author examines each woman's ability to use her position within the historical and cultural context as a platform from which to instigate change. The analytical emphasis throughout is on the art of negotiation and the result is an interdisciplinary work that delves deeply into the experience of an undervalued cohort of artists who had a disproportionate influence on Victorian social norms.

The Tower of London has over two million visitors a year, with the Crown Jewels as its centrepiece. This paperback edition of the official illustrated history of the Crown Jewels, the most famous jewelry collection in the world, incorporates spectacular new photographs with stunning details. Accessible and up-to-date text, based on original research, includes the story of two of the largest and most famous diamonds in the world - the Kohi-nur and the Cullinan. This is the perfect souvenir for visitors to the Tower of London, as well as an ideal introduction for anyone interested in English history and monarchy.

Take a trip through the ages and the world to uncover a unique stone with amazing properties. In this well-researched book, readers discover amber and the products made from it, especially jewelry. The easy-to-read format and over 320 color photographs and drawings make it both informative and appealing. The fascinating history of this ancient and unusual stone is explained, and identification methods, origins, amber products, carving techniques, and care tips are among the invaluable information included. Interesting mysteries, concerns, and triumphs about amber and a discussion of its cost are presented. Mineral and rock collectors, history buffs, and jewelry lovers all will enjoy this freshly compiled and up-to-date reference.

Having learned about geometry, perspective and representation of materials in the first volume, this second book in this two-part series delves deeper into the process of designing jewelry, from the first sketch to the final representation, with special emphasis on how to work on ideas, plan a collection, and design and depict a wide variety of pieces, taking the inspiration from natural forms or art history. The fundamentals of drawing different pieces, such as necklaces, rings, earrings, and bracelets, are carefully explained and illustrated in the book, which includes all the technical details to be taken into consideration when planning a jewelry piece, from the executive point of view. While the first volume focused on the tools needed to be able to accurately convey ideas, draw different materials, facets and effects, and master the use of color, this publication tackles the process from the initial idea, based in natural or geometrical forms, to the final drawing of the completed piece, including illustration techniques and sources of inspiration, all aspects that will stir up the reader's creativity. It is the ultimate tool and resource for jewelry students and professionals, and even illustrators in search of professional guidelines in freehand drawing and painting techniques when representing jewelry.

This beautiful book showcases hundreds of figural silver items that were used for many purposes during the luxurious Gilded Age. These endearing and sometimes whimsical designs, shown in nearly 600 color photos, include accoutrements for the dining room, the writing desk, the sewing room, the nursery, and much more. Among the items shown and described are spoons, tea balls, napkin rings, inkwells, pens and pencils, matchsafes, cigar cutters, thimbles, chatelaines, belt buckles, and baby rattles. Historical background plus valuable information on manufacturing techniques and marks is also included. With values provided in the captions and an extensive bibliography, this is a wonderful book for new and experienced collectors of figural silver novelties.

Bringing the existence and significance of the lost riches of Henry VIII back to life, this book sheds new light on Henrician and Tudor court culture. Henry VIII amassed the most spectacular collection of gold and silver of any British monarch. Plate and jewels were hugely prominent in medieval and Renaissance courts and played an essential role in dynastic marriages and diplomacy as well as in cementing the bonds between king and court. Ranging from plain domestic wares to extraordinary bejewelled works of art, Henry's collection embraced virtuoso continental objects as well as vast quantities of plate commissioned from London goldsmiths or inherited from his father. But nearly all of these holdings were destroyed over the following century, and of the thousands that he owned no more than a handful have survived to modern times. This book makes use of the wealth of surviving documentation - inventories, drawings, lists of payments, dispatches by foreign ambassadors and other records - to explore this lost collection and the light it sheds on the monarchy. Starting with an assessment of the young king's inheritance from his father, the book considers the role of plate at state banquets, in great church services and in the regular exchange of gifts between courtiers and ambassadors; the role of plate and jewels as a potent symbol of power; how the king used confiscation as an instrument of humiliation of those who fell from grace, including Cardinal Wolsey and Katherine of Aragon; and how Henry's avaricious seizure of church plate towards the end of his life throws light on his changing character. While the focus is on plate and goldsmiths' work, the context ranges from court ceremonial to rivalry between princes, the role of the church, the vulnerability of persons and institutions with covetable assets, and relations between the king and his own family. Bringing the existence and significance of these lost riches back to life, the book sheds new light on Henrician and Tudor court culture.

Hundreds of stunning color photos display the wearable artwork produced by today's top art jewelers, including one-of-a-kind necklaces, brooches, bracelets, rings, and earrings in gold, silver, mixed metals, glass, enamel work, found objects, and more. Here is sculpture made small and designed to adorn the body and draw the eye, created by artists who have committed their lives to their work. The text introduces artists from around the globe. This book is the second in a series pioneered by the late Dona Meilach and provides readers familiar with her work with a new look at some of the artists they have come to know as well as an introduction to artists not previously known. This is a valuable guide to today's art jewelry, for buyers and artists alike.

Georgian Dublin is synonymous with a period of unprecedented expansion in the market for luxury goods. At a time when new commodities, novel technologies and fashionable imports seduced elite society, silver enjoyed an established association with gentility and prestige. Earlier studies have focused predominantly on the issue of style. This book considers the demand for silver goods in Georgian Ireland from the perspectives of makers, retailers and consumers. It discusses the practical and symbolic uses of silverware, interpreted through contemporary guild accounts, inventories, trade ephemera and culinary manuscripts. For the first time the activities of Dublin's goldsmiths and their customers are considered in the context of the British Isles, acknowledging Dublin's 'second city' status in relation to London. How did the availability of new products like English porcelain and Sheffield Plate affect the demand for silver in Dublin, and how did silver imports from London affect the Dublin trade? To what extent do the practices of Dublin goldsmiths mirror their North American counterparts seeking to infer associations with the fashionable metropolis of London? Drawing on an extensive range of documentary and object evidence this wide-ranging analysis considers the context in which silver goods were made, used, valued and displayed in Georgian Ireland.

Between 1125 and 1135, it is generally agreed, a sculptor of genius usually referred to as Gislebertus carved a tympanum and a series of capitals for the cathedral dedicated to Saint Lazarus at Autun. The capital depicting the suicide of Judas is unique in the Romanesque repertoire both for its beauty of technique and for its execution of subject matter. The iconography is at once baffling and rich in possibilities of interpretation, which extend far beyond a simple image of a hanged man. One of the possibilities explored is that this is an image of a man realizing in extremis that he could and should have been remembered throughout history as Saint Judas, Apostle and Martyr, rather than as the paradigmatic traitor. There are objects in the image that demand - and receive - explanations, albeit tentative: the protuberance on Judas' back; the strap from which he is hanging; the position of his hands and feet. The interpretation is set firmly in its historical period, but the image is also discussed as an object whose significance transcends the time and the place in which it was conceived and produced.

India, Jewels that Enchanted the World presents for the first time the remarkable history and unique legacy of 500 years of Indian jewellery, from the 17th century to the present. The essays, all written by leading international scholars, explore the rich, distinctive, and unique heritage of Indian jewellery; the striking boldness of South Indian ornaments; the delicate refinement of the Mughal period; the dazzling jewels of the post-Mughal maharajas; the cross-cultural influences between Europe and India in the 19th and early 20th centuries; and the creations of leading contemporary designers whose jewels display the enduring beauty of Indian design and craftsmanship. Published to accompany a major exhibition at the State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin organised jointly with the Indo-Russian Jewellery Foundation, this lavishly illustrated catalogue brings together royal, ceremonial, and personal Indian jewels to showcase the entire range and variety of the jeweller's art in India.

Georgian Dublin is synonymous with a period of unprecedented expansion in the market for luxury goods. At a time when new commodities, novel technologies and fashionable imports seduced elite society, silver enjoyed an established association with gentility and prestige. Earlier studies have focused predominantly on the issue of style. This book considers the demand for silver goods in Georgian Ireland from the perspectives of makers, retailers and consumers. It discusses the practical and symbolic uses of silverware, interpreted through contemporary guild accounts, inventories, trade ephemera and culinary manuscripts. For the first time the activities of Dublin's goldsmiths and their customers are considered in the context of the British Isles, acknowledging Dublin's 'second city' status in relation to London. How did the availability of new products like English porcelain and Sheffield Plate affect the demand for silver in Dublin, and how did silver imports from London affect the Dublin trade? To what extent do the practices of Dublin goldsmiths mirror their North American counterparts seeking to infer associations with the fashionable metropolis of London? Drawing on an extensive range of documentary and object evidence this wide-ranging analysis considers the context in which silver goods were made, used, valued and displayed in Georgian Ireland.

Nationally recognized woodturner Judy Ditmer shares her techniques for making beautiful, fanciful jewelry on the wood lathe. Beginning with the turning of tiny "bowls" by hand from a variety of wood, she then cuts and sands them into various shapes, producing graceful compound curved edges and surfaces. They are finished and assembled with findings, wires, and beads of silver, glass, or stone. The result is beautiful, unique jewelry. Judy takes the turner step-by-step through the process of creating this wearable art form. Each step is illustrated with a color photograph and captioned in a concise and informative way. Novice and experienced turners alike will enjoy and profit from her insights and secrets. An extensive gallery of finished works, touches upon the infinite varieties of forms and combinations this jewelry can take.

First published in 1971, this book was the first major survey ever made in this field. It includes all the main museum collections in the world, and enables comparative study of almost all the known jewellery from predynastic times to the end of the XXVIth Dynasty (525 B.C.) to be made.

The jewellery of the ancient Egyptian civilization was of a delicacy and magnificence seldom rivalled; much has been learned by comparing the jewels themselves, and the techniques and materials of those who made them. But this book draws also on other branches of Egyptian art, since paintings and sculpture sometimes provide evidence showing how the jewellery was made and worn. Each section opens with a brief history of the period reviewed, and an account of the manner in which the individual jewels were discovered both of which help those readers unfamiliar with Egyptological matters. The key pieces are described in detail, and the text is generously illustrated with line drawings and plates. An indispensable reference book for all those with an interest in the art of ancient Egypt."

"...it's the colorful photographs (over 500!) of one-of-a-kind Hopi and Moroccan-inspired mosaic pieces featured in her memoir, out in October, that truly command attention, from ammonite fossils and ivory animal renderings to stunning lapis, coral, and turquoise designs." - Natural Diamonds North African-born Eveli Sabatie had a long-time fascination with Native American culture and history. As a young woman, she left her home in Paris in 1968 to move to San Francisco, hoping to learn more. A chance encounter with a Hopi traditionalist led to an invitation to Arizona, where she apprenticed with a master Native American jewellery-maker. For her, this was the beginning of a new world. Art can never be fully divided from the artist's voice, nor the natural world. When Eveli encountered red jasper while roaming the Arizona mountains, she knew she had to incorporate her local geology into her work. Yet raw materials are just one of many ways in which the world around Eveli shapes her art. This book is a direct and personal exploration of Eveli's work, following her arc of growth, challenges and internal workings. Eveli's jewellery is entirely created by her, from gathering material to fabricating the body of the piece, doing the lapidary work and finally adding stone settings and finishings. She works in a rustic, ancient environment, often choosing to use rudimentary and home-made tools over commercial techniques. This book explores her creative process through five sections: THE JOURNEY, a biographical overview of her time at the Hopi reservation in Northern Arizona, where she apprenticed under Charles Loloma; CLOUDS AND RAIN, exploring the influence of the Hopi and the desert on her work; BEING HOME, which talks in greater detail about Eveli's relationship with the environment; BEING HUMAN, a philosophical study of humanity through jewellery; and BRANCHING OUT, which features Eveli's other artworks, which are sought after by collectors from around the world. This is a profound reflection on the earth, through the medium of jewellery.

This stunning new book showcases fantastic costume jewelry from 53 top designers of the 20th century. Examples from Christian Dior, Miriam Haskell, Kenneth Jay Lane, Elsa Schiaparelli, Stanley Hagler, Trifari, Vendome, and may others are shown in profusion. 360 luscious color photographs display exquisite examples of each designers' best work. Masterpieces abound, including many rare examples. The authors illustrate ways to enjoy these pieces today, with candid photography of friends adorned for casual occasions. Delightful stories are shared of memories associated with their passion for jewelry over the years. This remarkable exhibition displays costume jewelry as absolutely beautiful works of art. Sit back with this eye candy, relax with the fairytale spirit it projects, and enjoy the romance. Let the passion roll!

The breadth of National Museums Scotland's collections, together with the support of The Glenmorangie Company, puts National Museums in a unique position to reveal the role of silver in the development of the first kingdoms of Scotland. It was silver, not gold, which was the most important and powerful precious metal in Scotland for over six hundred years and, as well as showcasing beautiful objects, the book builds on the Glenmorangie Research Project to gives fresh insights into this formative period of Scottish history. Based on the exhibition Scotland's Early Silver which was at the National Museum of Scotland and is now on tour.

The first comprehensive and authoritative history of the Koh-i-Noor, arguably the most celebrated and mythologised jewel in the world. On 29 March 1849, the ten-year-old maharaja of the Punjab was ushered into the magnificent Mirrored Hall at the centre of the great fort in Lahore. There, in a public ceremony, the frightened but dignified child handed over great swathes of the richest country in India in a formal Act of Submission to a private corporation, the East India Company. He was also compelled to hand over to the British monarch, Queen Victoria, perhaps the single most valuable object on the subcontinent: the celebrated Koh-i Noor diamond. The Mountain of Light. The history of the Koh-i-Noor that was then commissioned by the British may have been one woven together from gossip of Delhi bazaars, but it was to become the accepted version. Only now is it finally challenged, freeing the diamond from the fog of mythology that has clung to it for so long. The resulting history is one of greed, murder, torture, colonialism and appropriation told through an impressive slice of south and central Asian history. It ends with the jewel in its current controversial setting: in the crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. Masterly, powerful and erudite, this is history at its most compelling and invigorating.

Goldsmiths' products examined, combining discussion of object with analysis of inscription and design, and literary and archaeological evidence for smiths and their work. Throughout the Anglo-Saxon period, goldsmiths produced work of a high standard in both design and craftsmanship, both for personal adornment, and to embellish bookbindings, reliquaries, vessels and weapons. Some works are well known, particularly the magnificent gold and garnet regalia from Sutton Hoo, but this represents only a fraction even of the surviving work, and much more has been lost. This book is the first to look at the goldsmiths' products through the eyes of both a specialist in the period and a practical craftsman, combining close examination of the surface and structure of the objects with analysis of inscriptions and evidence for design, and with literary and visualsources of evidence for smiths and their work. Archaeological and documentary evidence for workshops, tools and working processes is also assessed, and up-to-date technical information on materials and techniques is juxtaposed with new practical research to throw light on manufacturing and decorative processes, and, more widely, to give a fresh idea of the position of the goldsmith in his society. Dr ELIZABETH COATSWORTH is Senior Lecturer inthe Department of History of Art and Design, Manchester Metropolitan University; Dr MICHAEL PINDER is Senior Lecturer in the Department of Architecture, Landscape and 3DD, at the same university.

This book contains papers by archaeologists and numismatists from six countries concerned with different aspects of how silver was used in both Scandinavia and the wider Viking world during the 8th to 11th centuries AD. The volume brings together a combination of recent summaries and new work on silver and gold coinage, rings and bullion, which allow a better appreciation of the broader socioeconomic conditions of the Viking world. This is an indispensable source for all archaeologists, historians and numismatists involved in Viking Studies.

The ultimate guide to core jewellery-making techniques, packed with unique (and money-saving) tips. This book gives you an overview of core jewellery-making techniques and helps you to achieve the same results as traditional methods with easier and cheaper alternative solutions. Each chapter is packed with unique ideas on how you can make tasks simpler, quicker or less expensive, and produce beautiful pieces. There are instructions for adapting and making your own problem-solving tools and jigs from everyday items, and tips on identifying potential pitfalls in a project and avoiding costly mistakes. Practical and in a step-by-step format, this book includes over 50 fully illustrated projects and detailed explanations of tools and working techniques.

The Fitzwilliam Museum, University of Cambridge, holds stunning examples of jewellery and metalwork from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. This exceptional period of design covers the neo-Gothic and historicist designs of the mid- to late nineteenth century, the groundbreaking work of British Arts & Crafts designers, sinuous curves influenced by the European Art Nouveau movement and the structural modernity of the 1930s. The collection contains jewellery by some of the finest historicist designers, including the Castellani and Giuliano families and John Brogden, as well as a spectacular decanter by William Burges. There are important pieces of jewellery and silver by the most famous of Arts & Crafts designers, including C.R. Ashbee, Henry Wilson, Gilbert Marks and John Paul Cooper. Unique pieces designed by the artist Charles Ricketts hold a special place in the history of queer art in Britain, having been designed for his friends Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper, a couple known collectively as Michael Field. Modernist silver is represented by leaders of the field Omar Ramsden and H.G. Murphy. This beautifully illustrated volume reproduces 70 of the Museum's most important pieces from this period, many previously unpublished, with comparative illustrations of some of the original designs. Importantly, the book is arranged chronologically by designer and includes biographies, a description of their work and how it changed over time, as well as commentary about the specific works in the Museum's collection. The resulting book therefore brings together for the first time the Fitzwilliam's exceptionally fine holdings of jewellery and metalwork from this highly popular and fruitful period of design.

John Donald, a British jeweller, designer and goldsmith, is regarded as one of the most innovative of the twentieth century. In over half a century he has been recognised as a pioneering and radical designer and craftsman with his work capturing the late twentieth century ideals of glamour and modernity. Part of a select group that revolutionised jewellery design in the 1960s and '70s, John went on to establish a successful business in London and Geneva as well as an international reputation. He is respected by art critics and his work attracted the patronage of HRH The late Princess Margaret, Countess ofSnowdon and Her late Majesty Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.His work is seen in the collections of the V&A Museum, the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim, The Royal Museum in Edinburgh and The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. His pieces are owned by various Royal Families as well as headsof industry and those fascinated by design.

This book reveals a great untold story of enterprise and innovation based on the relationship between the Victoria and Albert Museum, and Elkington & Co., the renowned industrial art and design manufacturer of the 19th-century. The Birmingham-based company pioneered and patented the industrial art of electro-metallurgy to create original artworks, perfect replicas, and mass-reproduced luxury consumer goods that used electricity to 'grow' metal into shape at a molecular level. This technological revolution created a profound legacy, which continues to influence the way modern material culture looks and operates today. Elkington's syntheses of science and art into industrial manufacturing processes revolutionized the design and production, replication and reproduction of precious metalwork, metal sculpture, and ornamental art metalwork. Elkington & Co. gained huge public acclaim at the Great Exhibition of 1851. They subsequently produced artworks and luxury goods, including world-renowned sports trophies like the Wimbledon Singles Trophies, as well as luxury dining services for great steamships and railways, including tableware that sank with the Titanic. Elkington played a crucial role in shaping and building the V&A's permanent collection from its foundation in 1852 (following the Great Exhibition) until the First World War. The V&A's collections in turn had a profound influence on Elkington's output. The great success of their relationship cemented both the museum's status as a leading cultural institution, and the E&Co 'makers-mark' as one of the world's first truly multinational designer brands. Elkington's electrical alchemy helped spark the electrical revolution that founded the modern world.