Enduring Splendor focuses on the rich and diverse silver jewelry traditions of India's Thar Desert region, stretching across the western states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. These traditions are considered against the background of the five-thousand-year history of jewelry making across the vast Indian Subcontinent. Drawing on recent field research carried out in the city of Jaisalmer, a thriving center of contemporary jewelry production, Enduring Splendor explores for the first time the life and work of four sonis (silversmiths or goldsmiths). To contextualize this recent production, numerous illustrations of very fine examples of ninteenth- and twentieth-century jewelry types that are still worn are included. These objects have been borrowed from the Ronald and Maxine Linde Collection of Jewelry and Ritual Arts of India, part of a promised gift to UCLA, where it will find its future home with the Fowler Museum. The Linde Collection is one of the finest and most comprehensive collections of Indian jewelry in the world. This volume highlights elaborate rural styles rendered in silver as well as selected ornate examples, largely associated with the elite, made with gold and gemstones.

Diamonds tell stories that are captivating and timeless. On the one hand, they are just stones, pieces of pure carbon with optical properties that make them glitter and sparkle like stars. On the other, they are mystical entities hypnotically drawing the viewer into a time machine as it were, wherein a cinematic montage of their journey unfolds. Diamonds Across Time presents a sweeping overview of diamonds across time and space, featuring ten essays by world-renowned scholars in love the stone. Here, these authors present new discoveries; explore extraordinary collections; investigate histories, science, and trade; the nature of diamonds; legendary gems, jewellery collections, and great designers. Above all, they tell the human stories that underpin the adoration of diamonds. Diamonds Across Time is a richly illustrated publication with high-quality images of gems and jewels, archival documents, rare drawings, and fabulous photographs. The volume places diamonds in the context of the time in which they were discovered, and on the political, social, and cultural stage on which their histories were etched. In a rapidly changing world, diamonds are eternal. They were created by nature and grew in the womb of the earth. They tell stories, and they record history. With this book, diamonds will finally have their own storytellers. The book was compiled and edited by the World Diamond Museum's chief curator and world-renowned jewellery expert Dr. Usha R Balakrishnan. She and nine other distinguished authors wrote ten monographs written in the order in appearance: Introduction; The Nizam Diamond: Bala Koh-i-Noor, in the Sacred Trust of the Nizam of Hyderabad - Usha R. Balakrishnan; Diamonds of the French Crown Jewels: Between East and West - Francois Farges; A Concise History of Diamonds from Borneo - Derek J. Content; Indian Diamonds and the Portuguese Duriing the Rise of the Mughal Empire - Hugo Miguel Crespo; Two Large Diamonds from India - Jack Ogden The Romanov Diamonds: History of Splendour - Stefano Papi; The Londonderry Jewels, 1819-1959 - Diana Scarisbrick; Dress to Impress in Southeast Asia - Rene Brus; Powerful Women, Important Diamonds - Ruth Peltason; One in Ten Thousand: The Unique World of Coloured Diamonds - John M. King.

For many women of Egypt, their jewelry is their bank-they wear their wealth in their gold. But jewelry in Egypt is also more than mere assets, and its design and manufacture reveal a great array of styles and a high degree of skill and artistry. In this lavishly illustrated book, Azza Fahmy, herself a world-renowned designer of jewelry based on traditional motifs, lays before us an Aladdin's cave of jewelry made in all corners of Egypt over the last one hundred years, collected through her extensive travels throughout the country. From the farms and villages of the Nile Valley and Delta, from the oases of the Western Desert and the mountains and wadis of Sinai and the Eastern Desert, from Nubia in the south, and from the crowded traditional neighborhoods of Cairo is displayed a cornucopia of gold and silver adornment-each area with its own distinctive favored style. Personal seals have been widely employed, and there is even jewelry for special occasions, such as the appeasement of malignant spirits, and for animals.In this completely redesigned edition of her bestselling book, in a new and elegant format, the author not only documents all these varieties and illustrates them with the finest examples, she also describes the techniques and skills involved in their production and the materials used, and recounts her own journey of learning as she apprenticed with the leading master jewelers to become the best known jeweler in Egypt, whose work is worn by world leaders, royalty, and connoisseurs of jewelry around the globe.

This exhibition catalogue for a show at the Neue Sammlung (Design Museum) in Munich documents the first solo show by Swiss jewellery artist Therese Hilbert, former student of Max Froehlich in Zurich and Hermann Ju nger in Munich. It features 250 works, going back 50 years and beginning with her earliest, unknown pieces through to her newest work created in 2020. One of her life-long passions is volcanoes: she has climbed many of them and has used them as a theme in her jewellery design for many years. The sense of heat below the surface of her minimalist designs underlines her passion for the subject. Her work is in the collections of the Design Museum (Munich), the National Gallery of Victoria, the Dallas Museum of Art, and Museum of Arts and Design (New York). Features texts by Heike Endter, Otto Kunzli, Ellen Maurer-Zilioli, Pravu Mazumdar, Angelika Nollert, Warwick Freeman and Petra Hoelscher. Text in English and German.

The definitive guide to stonesetting by renowned designer and teacher, Melissa Hunt. From ready-made snap settings to handmade mounts for unique pieces, Stonesetting for Jewellery Makers is an all-encompassing examination of the many and varied techniques, treatments and innovations used in jewellery design. Whether learning how to make settings from scratch or choosing and working with ready-made mountings, this book arms the reader with techniques that can be applied to a range of pieces. Throughout the book, beautifully illustrated step-by-step tutorials are accompanied by practical tips and advice, while inspirational galleries present stunning examples of the ways in which contemporary jewellers experiment with settings, materials and stones.

Costume jewellery is commonly understood to mean fashionable yet affordable adornments made from non-precious material. Originating in in mid-1700s France with the rise of the bourgeoise, the earliest 'costume jewellery' mimicked fine jewellery styles. Since then, costume jewellery has always been evolving. From Victorian sentimentalism to the mass-produced ornaments available today, costume jewellery has developed into an artform in its own right. An encyclopaedic study of its history is long overdue. Flush with expert information, identification tips and historical anecdotes, Adorning Fashion explores the development of costume jewellery across the past four centuries. The styles of each era - Victorian, Edwardian, Arts & Crafts, Jugenstil, Art Nouveau, and each decade of the twentieth century - are given individual attention. Production methods are also explained in depth. Alloys and gilded electroplating can mimic silver and gold, while the refraction index of treated glass can, to the untrained eye, be mistaken for diamond. Adorning Fashion discusses the contributions of a remarkable roster of designers and innovators, including Kokichi Mikimoto, Arthur L. Liberty, Carlo Giuliano, Rene Lalique, Elizabeth Bonte, the Castellani brothers, Jean Fouquet, Jean Despres, Fulco di Verdura, Jean Schlumberger, Salvador Dali, Miriam Haskell, Lina Baretti, Countess Cissy Zoltowska, Line Vautrin, Kenneth Jay Lane, Francisco Rebajes, Diane Love, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paco Rabanne, Yves Saint Laurent, Napier, Haskell, Trifari, Brania, Bulgari, Versace and more.

Tadema Gallery was founded in 1978 by Sonya and David Newell-Smith in London's famed Camden Passage in Islington. They were successful photo-journalists who ventured into the field of 20th century abstract art and the decorative arts of the 19th and 20th centuries. By 1982 they had discovered a passion for artist-designed jewellery and showed in the gallery an eclectic choice of jewels from significant designers of the Revivalist, Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts, Jugendstil, Art Deco, and Modernist movements. With over 500 unique jewellery pieces from the 1860s to 1960s, the book reflects the 40-year history of the gallery and the superb eye of its inspirational founders.

This comprehensive guide fills a critical void in the available literature regarding ancient finger rings comprised of base metals and low grade silver alloy. Increasingly, these modest relics of times past are being unearthed and sold through a growing assortment of worldwide venues. Unfortunately, the accompanying descriptions are often inaccurate and unreliable in the extreme. To date, the available reference material for researchers and collectors has been almost entirely restricted to the historic and "high end" pieces of the past, i.e., the gold and precious stones of royalty and the very wealthy. The public has had next to nothing with which to evaluate these common rings. This guide not only examines the physical structure of these pieces, but also the images and symbols which are such important elements of these ancient artifacts. As such, this book is an invaluable guide not only for merchants and collectors, but also researchers, students and educators regarding the types of ancient rings so conspicuously missing in the available literature.

'Jewellery in all its guises has been a signifier of glamour in the pages of Vogue since the magazine's inception in 1916...the jewellery always commands the image - infinitely powerful and desirable, inventive and extraordinary.' - Alexandra Shulman 'This book sparkles with glamour and flamboyance.' - Daily Mail 'From simple strings of gleaming pearls to showstopping tiaras, this book is perfect for anyone with a true love of jewels.' - Conde Nast Traveller Illustrated with fabulous images from Vogue's archive, Vogue: The Jewellery is the ultimate book for fashion and jewellery lovers. From couture to costume jewellery, the brilliant pieces featured on the pages of British Vogue for more than a century have encapsulated the fashion zeitgeist of each new age for which they were created. Adorning princesses and rock chicks alike, the jewels shown in Vogue: The Jewellery reveal a dazzling array of styles and moods - from fairytale romance to Jazz-age glamour, sculptural modernism to timeless elegance. On every page sumptuous jewellery is the star of the show, nourishing dreams in us all. Carol Woolton has curated a collection of more than 300 fabulous images within five thematic chapters: Show-stoppers, Rock Chick, Minimalist, Exotic and Classic. From diamond-encrusted tiaras and intricate jet chokers to sculptural silver cuffs and simple strings of pearls, the book provides an evocative celebration of a century of jewellery, while showcasing British Vogue's best photographers including Norman Parkinson, David Bailey, Arthur Elgort, Corinne Day, Cecil Beaton and Tim Walker. Now available in a new format with a luxurious real cloth cover, at a more pocket-friendly price of GBP30, this is essential reading for fashionistas everywhere.

Sculptors, painters, and architects in 20th-century Mexico, working in silver, inspired unprecedented stylistic and technical experimentation. This dual-language English/Spanish compendium focuses primarily on threads of influence in the development of the modern Mexican silver industry. It covers the active artistic communities in Taxco and Mexico City, which had a major impact on silver designers, maestros, and silversmiths. Morrill helps us explore the materials, techniques, and design aesthetics of artists William Spratling, Hector Aguilar, Margot Van Voorhies, Anna Morelli, and Matilde Poulat, together with a group of talented contemporary Mexican artists designing in silver. The artists' works were born out of a unique perspective, the challenge provided by the aesthetics of Mexican indigenous art. Forces like cubism, surrealism, primitivism, and abstraction were incorporated into a distinctly Mexican stylistic language. Researchers, curators, collectors, and art lovers will treasure this indispensible resource, demonstrating why Mexico has been and continues to be an exciting and nurturing setting for artists in silver.

Eisenberg was one of the first American design houses, and the jewelry that bears its mark is among the finest costume pieces ever created. Yet there is surprisingly little written about the company, and almost nothing about the other products it marketed. In more than 400 photographs, this book chronicles Eisenberg's beginnings in clothing fashion and follows the trajectory of its revered jewelry line, as well as documenting its often overlooked fragrances and cosmetics. With stories of the people and companies that were integral to this label's success, this book shows that, in its golden years, the company's creations deserved the place they held in only the finest stores.

Containing an introductory essay on ancient gems, J. H. Middleton's work of 1892 catalogues the extensive and fascinating collection of engraved gems at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Middleton, who was a Professor of Fine Art and Director of the Fitzwilliam Museum, describes how the collection was acquired by the Reverend S. S. Lewis on his frequent visits to Italy, Greece and more distant Oriental countries. The catalogue demonstrates that the gems are more remarkable for their interesting subjects than for any exceptional beauty as works of art. The reader is shown how the gems represent important works of Greek sculpture, present examples of the work of Italian Renaissance artists, and illustrate myths and rituals of ancient times. The book will be of interest to students of glyptic art, and anyone interested in classical learning, the development of Christianity and the Renaissance of classical art.

More than 125 vivid color photographs display Indian-made wrought silver, turquoise, shell and coral jewelry brought together from the American Southwest's bright deserts, red canyon and timeless pueblos. The authors explore the diversity of this hand-crafted jewelry from historic collections as well as those available today on reservations and in shops and galleries. They explain the heritage conveyed by these distinctive products of Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, and Rio Grande Pueblo artisans.

This monograph on classical engraved gems, which also contains a catalogue of the collection then held by the Fitzwilliam Museum, was published in 1891. J. Henry Middleton (1846 1896) was at the time the Director of the Museum and Slade Professor of Fine Art in Cambridge. His intention was to provide an introductory volume for students of archaeology which both traced the history of the use of engraved gemstones as seals and signets from Babylonian to classical times, described the techniques used to create these miniature works of art, and gave catalogue definitions, enhanced by photographic plates, of the Fitzwilliam collection, which had for the most part been donated by Colonel W. M. Leake (1777 1860), whose antiquarian interests had been aroused when he was sent to the eastern Mediterranean to assist the Turkish army against the French in the early nineteenth century.

Why has jewellery and body adornment often been marginalized in studies of modernist art and design? This study explores the relationship between jewellery, modernism and modernity from the 'jazz age' to the second world war in order to challenge the view that these portable art forms have only a minor role to play in histories of modernism. From the masterworks of the Parisian jewellery houses to the film and photography of Man Ray, this study seeks to present jewellery in a new light, where issues of representation and display are considered to be as important in the creation of a modern 'jewellery culture' as the objects themselves. Drawing on material from museums, archives, contemporary journals, memoirs, literary and theoretical texts, this study shows how the emergence of modern jewellery began to seriously question conventional notions of body adornment.

Goossens is one of the most prestigious names in haute couture jewelry of the last half century. Robert Goossens worked with Coco Chanel in the 1950s, cultivating an original style inspired by baroque and Byzantine art. He went on to design jewelry for the world s foremost fashion houses, pursuing notable collaborations with Balenciaga, Gres, and Yves Saint Laurent. As well as the emblematic rock crystal jewelry, baroque pearl brooches, and Byzantine cuffs famously associated with Chanel, Goossens designs combine real and faux gemstones, making fashion jewelry both precious and bold at once. Robert s son, Patrick, has reimagined many original Goossens styles for Dior, Alexander McQueen, and Louis Vuitton among others. Martine, his daughter, collaborates regularly with architect Peter Marino to decorate the interiors of the most famous couture houses in the world. The Goossens family upholds the meticulous standards of the house, now part of the stable of exceptional craft practitioners owned by Chanel s Paraffection subsidiary."

Why did the Vikings sail to England? Were they indiscriminate raiders, motivated solely by bloodlust and plunder? One narrative, the stereotypical one, might have it so. But locked away in the buried history of the British Isles are other, far richer and more nuanced, stories; and these hidden tales paint a picture very different from the ferocious pillagers of popular repute. In this book, Eleanor Parker unlocks secrets that point to more complex motivations within the marauding army that in the late-9th century voyaged to the shores of eastern England in its sleek, dragon-prowed longships. Exploring legends from forgotten medieval texts, and across the varied Anglo-Saxon regions, she depicts Vikings who came not just to raid but also to settle personal feuds, intervene in English politics and find a place to call home. Native tales reveal the links to famous Vikings like Ragnar Lothbrok and his sons, Cnut, and Havelok the Dane. Each myth shows how the legacy of the newcomers can still be traced in landscape, place-names and local history. Meticulously researched and elegantly argued, Dragon Lords uncovers the remarkable degree to which England is Viking to its core.

As early as the 1970s, Wolfgang Rahs (*1952) was inspired by the avant-garde art scene in Graz by the contemporary art festival Steirischer Herbst and the Forum Stadtpark collective, one of the action groups and joint ventures of artists from different genres; he is also member of the artists' union Gruppe 77. Educated in metalcraft and goldsmithing at the Ortweinschule in Graz, Rahs alternates in his works between jewellery, installation, performance, and processual pieces - free works that reflect the concept of jewellery in an all-embracing manner. His examination of myths (Skythisches Stillleben), of conditions he encounters (Verdammte Brosche), and of his own existence (Mauspfad Koeln) plays a key role. An impressive publication on this exceptional artist whose work challenges and therefore expands our traditional understanding of jewellery. Text in English and German.

This collection of 5,000+ designs from Thomas Wilson's drawing notebooks harvests the creative output of four decades of ironwork design. Wilson-ironwork designer, master blacksmith, artist, sculptor, illustrator, author, and restorer-is at the forefront of design in metal. The designs here demonstrate the core role that drafting and drawing play in artistic work. Rendered on everything from notebook pages to paper napkins, they range from traditional to wildly creative. This volume incorporates the best of all that Wilson's eyes and mind have absorbed, and offers inspirational creative reference for anyone interested in design. Some of the drawings are spontaneous, simple idea sketches; others are fully evolved renderings of works of art. From chairs to hinges, chandeliers to fences, benches to belt buckles, the images will inspire design professionals, architects, interior designers, art students, blacksmiths, ironwork enthusiasts, jewelers, and artists of all kinds.

Jewelry was worn by ancient Egyptians at every level of society and, like their modern descendants, they prized it for its aesthetic value, as a way to adorn and beautify the body. It was also a conspicuous signifier of wealth, status, and power. But jewelry in ancient Egypt served another fundamental purpose: its wearers saw it as a means to absorb positive magical and divine powers-to protect the living, and the dead, from the malignant forces of the unseen. The types of metals or stones used by craftsmen were magically important, as were the colors of the materials, and the exact positioning of all the elements in a design. Ancient Egyptian Jewelry: 50 Masterpieces of Art and Design draws on the exquisite collections in the archaeological museums of Cairo to tell the story of three thousand years of jewelry-making, from simple amulets to complex ritual jewelry to the spells that protected the king in life and assisted his journey to the Otherworld in death. Gold, silver, carnelian, turquoise, and lapis lazuli were just some of the precious materials used in many of the pieces, and this stunningly illustrated book beautifully showcases the colors and exceptional artistry and accomplishment that make ancient Egyptian jewelry so dazzling to this day.

A comprehensive step-by-step guide that will take your craft to a new level. The art of soldering - permanently joining metal components with a torch and solder - is seen as a challenge by many crafters. But this book makes it an easy-to-learn technique for creating beautiful jewellery projects. The book features clear instructions for jewellers of all levels, from the hobbyist to the experienced maker who is looking to expand their soldering skills. It includes pre- and post-soldering techniques, safety procedures, essential equipment and materials required, along with tips and tricks of the trade from leading jewellers. Plus fifteen inspiring step-by-step jewellery projects, including rings, necklaces, chains, earrings, bangles, and more.

This is an account of the unique assemblage of silver and silver-mounted artefacts belonging to Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, some of them dating back to the College’s foundation 650 years ago. They include extraordinary objects such as a thirteenth-century drinking vessel made of the horn of an extinct animal, as well as the everyday tools and utensils of past centuries. Although some of them are well known to art historians, they have never been published in detail. The objects are especially significant for being documented in the College’s archives from the fourteenth century onwards. The book investigates the objects’ construction, how the College came by them, their original meaning and context, how they came to survive the depredations of the Civil War, what happened to those that do not survive, evidence of wear and repair, and what they were (and still are) used for.