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Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Decorative arts & crafts > Gold & silversmithing
This is the first comprehensive and fully illustrated study of
silver vessels from ancient Macedonia from the 4th to the 2nd
centuries BC. These precious vessels formed part of dining sets
owned by the royal family and the elite and have been discovered in
the tombs of their owners. Eleni Zimi presents 171 artifacts in a
full-length study of form, decoration, inscriptions and
manufacturing techniques, set against contemporary comparanda in
other media (clay, bronze, glass). She adopts an art historical and
sociological approach to the archaeological evidence and
demonstrates that the use of silver vessels as an expression of
wealth and a status symbol is not only connected with the wealth
spread in the empire after Alexander's the Great expedition to the
East, but constitutes a practice reflecting the opulence and
appreciation for luxury at least in the Macedonian court from the
reign of Philip II onwards.
A complete and practical guide to using precious and semi-precious
stones in any metal - from traditional settings to contemporary
looks. This is a detailed, technical guide to stone-setting for
jewellers and jewellery students. It explores traditional, modern
and experimental approaches to stone-setting, from the purely
functional to design-led solutions for securing stones. This book
takes you through the entire process of setting stones from
choosing a suitable stone, designing and making the setting, to
seating and setting the stone. The extensive setting techniques are
combined with step-by-step demonstrations, precise diagrams and
images of contemporary work from international jewellers. A
comprehensive reference section, featuring an illustrated glossary,
makes this book the essential stone-setting resource for both
students and professional jewellers. Demonstrations produced using
3D modelling software provide the most up-to-date reflection of
current practice and technology, and allow explanations of skills
and techniques to be presented with expert accuracy. This book is
the perfect resource for jewellers of all levels.
Tiaras have always inspired a great fascination and the most
beautiful and influential women have been painted, photographed and
admired whilst wearing them. Even in the 21st century they are
still worn and continue to inspire special poise, elegance and
sophistication. This lavishly illustrated book includes exclusive
photographs, many repro duced for the first time, of a variety of
Royal tiaras together with those of French and Russian Imperial
provenance, including four stunning tiaras designed by Prince
Albert for Queen Victoria. Geoffrey Munn has also been granted
privileged access to the archives of many famous jewellers,
including Boucheron, Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels and Faberge, for
his research. The regal images of some of the most prestigious
jewels in the world will captivate the reader and ensure turning
the page to the next enticing image becomes irresistible. Many of
these mes merising tiaras also have great historical signifi cance
and their provenance is fully explained here. Among the con
temporary pieces referred to are tiaras belonging to Jamie Lee
Curtis, Vivienne Westwood, Elton John and Madonna, that were made
by Galliano, Slim Barratt and Versace. The scholarly text, which
incorporates more than 400 illustrations, includes chapters on
tiaras as crown jewels, Russian style tiaras, tiaras as works of
art and the relationship between the tiara and the costume ball.
Tiaras - A History of Splendour is a magnificent work that will
enthral all those interested in fashion and style, jewellery,
European history and Royalty. "... beautifully written and
magnificently produced... for anyone interested in social history,
it's as good a read as you are likely to have this year." Daily
Telegraph "A truly majestic book" Antiques Info "... elegantly
melds social history, fashion criticism and an appreciation of the
jeweler's art." Town & Country
"...here's eye candy on every page of the book." - Natural Diamonds
This sumptuous book showcases the work of women jewellers in the
20th century. Beginning with Arts & Crafts jewellers in
Britain, Europe and North America, the author then examines the key
figures and movements of the pre-war period including Coco Chanel's
legendary 'Bijoux de Diamants' exhibition of 1932, the designs of
Suzanne Belperron and the roles of Jeanne Toussaint at Cartier and
Renee Puissant at Van Cleef & Arpels. From the 1950s to the
present day, a wide range of international designers are examined
in detail with many examples of their work clearly illustrated. The
author focuses on themes associated with jewellery, including
colour, light, proportion, nature and legends. Among the many names
included are Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube (designer for Georg Jensen),
Margaret De Patta, Wendy Ramshaw, Angela Cummings, Paloma Picasso,
Marina B, Lydia Courteille and Michelle Ong. Jewellery firms
include: Boivin, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jensen,
Tiffany & Co. Designers featured: Alma Pihl, Coco Chanel,
Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard, Olga Tritt, Elisabeth Treskow,
Margaret de Patta, Jeanne Toussaint, Line Vautrin, Margret Craver,
Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube, Nanna Ditzel, Marianne Ostier, Barbara
Anton, Gerda Floeckinger, Astrid Fog, Cornelia Roethel, Catherine
Noll, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, Wendy Ramshaw, Marina B,
Marie-Caroline de Brosses, Marilyn Cooperman, Paloma Picasso,
Victoire de Castellane, Alexandra Mor, Ornella Iannuzzi, Neha Dani,
Paula Crevoshay, Nathalie Castro, Claire Choisne, Bina Goenka,
Carla Amorim, Monique Pean, Michelle Ong - Carnet, Kara Ross, Lydia
Courteille, Suzanne Syz, Sylvie Corbelin, Kaoru Kay Akihara -
Gimel, Katey Brunini, Luz Camino, Cindy Chao, Aida Bergsen, Anna
Hu, Barbara Heinrich, Jacqueline Cullen, Cynthia Bach.
This new guide is the first to explore all facets of Native
American jewelry--its history, variety, and quality--in one
convenient resource. With coverage beginning in the mid-nineteenth
century, this resource includes artists, techniques, materials,
motifs, and more. The encyclopedia opens with helpful introductory
essay to acquaint the reader with the subject. More than 350
entries and over 80 photos make this new encyclopedia and
exceptional value.
"Understanding Jewellery is a love letter to glorious pieces from
the last hundred years." -M. J. Rose, The Adventurine "An enjoyably
scholarly romp through the past and a feast for the eyes for the
novice and the consummate jewelry fan and collector."-Beth
Bernstein, Forbes "A must-have coffee table book for jewellery
aficionados..." -Elisa Vallata, Departures International "As with
stocks, education is the way to begin. There are many excellent
books on the jewelry market, but start with Understanding
Jewellery, the industry bible by two former Sotheby's jewelry
executives, David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti." -Bloomberg
Understanding Jewellery, by authors David Bennett and Daniela
Mascetti, is often described as the must-have jewellery book of our
time - a 'Bible' in the jewellery trade. First published in 1989,
it has remained in print ever since, amassing a loyal following of
devotees who admire its detailed information and stunning imagery.
In this new work, Bennett and Mascetti have taken the original
concept of Understanding Jewellery a stage further. Now, with the
benefit of 20 years of hindsight, they have concentrated on the
20th century alone by conducting a detailed survey of each decade,
identifying the key players, trends and movements. The book is an
encyclopedic history of the various forms, techniques and materials
employed by the companies and individuals who defined jewellery in
the 20th century. Most significantly, this book includes a new set
of photographs, which make Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth
Century one of the most dazzling, absorbing and varied collections
of jewellery images ever assembled in a book. This large format
hardback volume is a perfect gift for all lovers of jewellery and
the definitive guide for those who desire a deeper understanding of
the subject.
Silver is an exciting and versatile material for jewellery makers,
both beginners and the more advanced, and nothing beats the
satisfaction of creating and making your own designs. This book
shows you how. Full of inspiring ideas and finished pieces, it
explains over forty processes including the more advanced
techniques such as fold forming and keum-boo and encourages the
reader to experiment with their own designs. Further topics include
step-by-step explanations with bench tips from the author's own
experience; advice on the jewellery process, including how to
gather inspiration for designs and considerations for making
wearable jewellery. Finally, there is a chapter dedicated to the
surface finishing and polishing of silver to give your designs a
professional finish.
A complete guide to identifying, buying, using and caring for a
dazzling array of jewels. A complete reference for goldsmiths,
collectors, and jewellery makers, this beautiful book is a
comprehensive guide to identifying, buying, using and caring for a
dazzling array of jewels and gems. The book includes practical
advice on how to assess the quality, rarity, grade, durability, and
cut of precious and semi-precious stones, and allows you to
discover the origins of gemstones and understand the process of
selecting the raw material. Learn how gems are calibrated, using
the industry standard measurements of carats and points, and how
they can be treated to improve both colour and clarity - a handy
glossary contains all of the key terminology you need to know.
Thanks to colourful illustrations and photographs, you can identify
which gemstones are suitable for jewellery-making, from amethysts
and diamonds to tourmaline and quartz, and learn how they can be
used in different designs and settings.
This book is the catalog for two of the first major exhibits to
show only modernist jewelry from such a broad group of artists.
Both take place in 2008 in Fort Wayne, Indiana: one at The Fort
Wayne Museum of Art (May 2 to August 24) and the other at The
University of St. Francis School of Creative Arts (May 2 to May
30). Over fifty collectors and living art jewelers have lent some
of the best examples of this innovative style. Sculptors Alexander
Calder, Harry Bertoia, Jose de Rivera, Peter and Daniel
Macchiarini, Earl and Tod Pardon, and merry rank are among the 96
artists featured, along with their extensive jewelry creations.
Their work was experimental and stimulated originality in
successive generations. Plastics, pearls, brass, copper, silver,
gold, and enamels are among the materials found here in
mini-sculptures and jewelry ornaments for men and women alike. The
author's extensive research uncovers connections among the artists
and documents this important art period and medium. Artists,
collectors, cultural historians, and students all will want to see
the exhibits and own the catalog.
Discover the common treatments and imitations plus gemstone properties,
sources and typical cuts of stones, including a guide on appraisal
techniques.
Jewellers and designer goldsmiths, lapidaries and gem cutters, stone
setters, gemologists, geologists, collectors and people who buy and
sell jewellery at antique fairs and on the internet, this book is for
anyone who has ever had a gemstone and wanted identification and
information. Featuring a mix of gemstones and gem-set jewellery, it
puts gems in context and contains historical context for those buying
and selling antique and vintage gem-set jewellery, including details of
the stones typically found in Georgian, Victorian, early 20th century
settings.
Packed with fascinating gemological details and up-to-minute data on
more than 70 of the most exquisite gemstones, and written by leading
expert, Judith Crowe, learn the common pitfalls in identifying stones
and clarify areas of confusion and misidentification.
This inspirational book features over 35 master jewelry designers,
organized alphabetically. Hailing from Australia, Brazil, France,
Greece, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Russia, Turkey,
the UK and USA, they represent a wide variety of approaches, from
Aida Bergsen's flora and fauna-inspired designs, including emerald-
studded frogs and diamond- encrusted salamanders; through Anabela
Chan's exquisitely detailed laser-cut brooches of white gold and
platinum with iridescent diamonds and natural grey pearls; to Elie
Top's yellow gold spheres that are a feat of mathematical precision
and ingenuity. Red-carpet customers and fans include Beyonce,
Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek, Madonna and Michelle Obama. Each
designer is introduced with a biography that highlights their
working practices and key sources of inspiration. Illustrations
include sketches as well as images of glorious finished designs,
all of which are unique and many of which are bespoke. Complete
with an introduction, a useful glossary and notes of designers'
websites (some work by appointment only), this is the perfect,
curated resource for both aficionados and professionals who wish to
view the craftsmanship of some of the most visionary practitioners
working in the field of fine jewelry today
Edith Sitwell, Margot Fonteyn, Frank Sinatra, Yul Brynner, Barbra
Streisand and Vivienne Westwood are just a few of the luminaries
who have visited Wartski's showrooms, lured by a dazzling array of
gems, jewellery, goldsmiths' work and the famous Faberge
collection.Geoffrey Munn, managing director of Wartski, tells the
remarkable story of how the firm rose from humble beginnings in
Bangor, North Wales, to become jewellers to six generations of the
British Royal family and famous throughout the world. The lively
text of Wartski: The First Hundred and Fifty Years will be a source
of deep fascination to all enthusiasts of jewellery, European
royalty, Faberge and, in particular, celebrities from every walk of
life.
Goldsmiths' products examined, combining discussion of object with
analysis of inscription and design, and literary and archaeological
evidence for smiths and their work. Throughout the Anglo-Saxon
period, goldsmiths produced work of a high standard in both design
and craftsmanship, both for personal adornment, and to embellish
bookbindings, reliquaries, vessels and weapons. Some works are well
known, particularly the magnificent gold and garnet regalia from
Sutton Hoo, but this represents only a fraction even of the
surviving work, and much more has been lost. This book is the first
to look at the goldsmiths' products through the eyes of both a
specialist in the period and a practical craftsman, combining close
examination of the surface and structure of the objects with
analysis of inscriptions and evidence for design, and with literary
and visualsources of evidence for smiths and their work.
Archaeological and documentary evidence for workshops, tools and
working processes is also assessed, and up-to-date technical
information on materials and techniques is juxtaposed with new
practical research to throw light on manufacturing and decorative
processes, and, more widely, to give a fresh idea of the position
of the goldsmith in his society. Dr ELIZABETH COATSWORTH is Senior
Lecturer inthe Department of History of Art and Design, Manchester
Metropolitan University; Dr MICHAEL PINDER is Senior Lecturer in
the Department of Architecture, Landscape and 3DD, at the same
university.
This book discusses the current trends in luxury and jewelry and
presents how to make these sustainable for a better future. In the
age of sustainability, we increasingly see how designers and
consumers begin to think beyond a product's look&feel and
operation, and are especially concerned about what has happened
during its manufacturing process and what will happen once its
useful life comes to an end. Today, consumers value that every
industrial product and process should be sustainable, beneficial
for the people, the economy and the planet, and so is the case for
jewelry.
"Stuart Devlin was probably the most original and creative
goldsmith and silversmith of his time, and one of the greats of all
time. His originality of design marked him out as a master
craftsman and his prolific output was a tribute to the width of his
imagination." - Foreword by His Royal Highness The Duke of
Edinburgh. This book gives an idea of Stuart Devlin's extraordinary
creativity, his skill, and the beauty of his work. It comprises
over 500 pages with hundreds of images of Devlin's gold, silver and
coins as well as his jewellery, sculpture and furniture. Many
collectors will recognise pieces that they originally commissioned
or have bought. Also shown are numerous sketches and working
drawings. The short sections of text include concise captions and
reviews from primary sources. Although it has been impossible to
encompass everything ever designed or produced by Devlin, the book
highlights how remarkable it is that this wealth of ideas was
conceived by just one man. Stuart Devlin was a pioneer goldsmith
who rejected the anonymity of corporate design during the 1960s. He
adapted old techniques and devised many new ones. His commissions
included those for the Royal Households, cathedrals, the armed
forces, sporting bodies and universities, as well as abundant
private commissions. He was also a coin and medal designer.
Australian born, recognition came to Devlin after designing the
Australian decimal coinage in 1963. He went on to design coins for
more than 30 countries.
"...Modern British Jewellery Designers 1960-1980: A Collector's
Guide, is an ode to an extraordinary period in British jewelry
history."- Phyllis Schiller, Rapaport "This book, in my opinion,
fills a significant gap in the literature providing a good starting
point for anyone thinking of collecting jewellery from the 1960s
and 1970s, and for anyone interested in jewellery from that era."
-Elizabeth Passmore, Scottish Gemmological Association n the 1960s,
British jewellery underwent a revolution. Natural, uncut stones
exploded into vogue and a 1961 exhibition at the Goldsmith's Hall
kickstarted the nation's new obsession with gold. The women who
shopped at Quant's Bazaar and Hulaniki's Biba no longer just
received jewellery as gifts. They placed their own orders,
exploring Grima's drizzled gold and Flockinger's fused metallic
experimentations; John Donald's textured gold cubes and the House
of Munsteiner's curious new gem cuts. This was an era of innovation
- captured here through insights into the work of 25 major
jewellers and sumptuous pictures of their work. This book
introduces the most influential British designers, jewellers,
goldsmiths and silversmiths of 1960-1980. Tracing the evolution of
style across these decades, Modern British Jewellery Designers
reveals the designers' inspirations and the identifying signatures
of their work. Accompanied by new photography showing each
designer's creations, this is the perfect introduction for anyone
with an interest in collecting, or learning more about this
transformative period in British jewellery design.
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