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Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Decorative arts & crafts > Gold & silversmithing
Find the perfect finish for your kumihimo. In Pru McRae's second book she brings together the experience of many years of kumihimo braiding to offer a comprehensive range of ending methods for braids to ensure that the ends are finished neatly and securely. Beautiful braids deserve expert finishing and if you find this part of the process a challenge, Pru's clear instructions and innovative ideas will be the solution. If you have a drawer full of unfinished braids, this is the book for you. In Kumihimo Endings: The finishing touch for every braid the techniques are divided into six categories. Each category includes a range of different methods, which can be mixed and matched to create a wealth of diverse endings for kumihimo. So you are sure to be able to find the perfect way to turn your braid into a fabulous piece of jewellery. Inside this book you will find: The key techniques required for every type of ending How to attach an end with glue or wire Seven variations of a button fastening How to use loops of braid to create a fastening How to use the loose cords to make attractive tassels
Goldstruck: A Life Shaped by Jewellery sets luxurious imagery of a lifetime s work alongside an honest and often comically autobiographical account of Stephen s career in the jewellery world. The book is a lavish collation of Stephen s personal and professional life, encompassing material such as photography by Rankin and Amelia Troubridge documenting his coveted collections, intricate sketches and designs that convey a fascinating creative process, and archival imagery including magazine editorials, advertising campaigns and intimate photography from Stephen s personal collection. Alongside such visual opulence, a foreword by Tracey Emin and a host of candid and personal recollections from luminaries of the worlds of art, entertainment and fashion, Stephen charts his career from the first steps of enrollment upon a jewellery- making course at his local college in Rochester, Kent to his rise to international recognition.
In the 1960s and 1970s, a generation of young Americans rejected the promise of prosperity and the suburban dream embraced by their parents. Furious about the war in Vietnam, fighting for civil rights at home, and eagerly exploring the effects of psychedelic drugs, the delights of free love, and the mystical teachings of eastern religions, thousands followed the advice to "turn on, tune in, drop out," bringing about a counterculture in the process. For many American jewellers, these events and values found their way into the studio, as well as affecting how they lived, worked, and loved. Jewellers, like other studio craftspeople, rode the wave of popularity for the hand-made and authentic that was at the heart of the counterculture. In Flux is the story of how their jewellery contributed to the raucous, contradictory, and enthusiastic clamour for a new kind of society that made the 1960s and 1970s so extraordinary.
Celebrated world-wide for his modern romantic jewels that push the boundaries of contemporary design, Shaun Leane has been responsible for creating a new genre of jewellery; precious, poetic, with a sense of eternity, yet relevant to today's world. Illustrated with a breath-taking combination of high fashion shots and detailed close-ups of the pieces themselves. Captured by photographers Nick Knight, Robert Fairer and Chris Moore, along with a dedicated photo essay of unseen backstage images recorded by Leane's close friend Ann Ray. Shaun Leane is introduced by the jeweller himself, then divided into three distinct parts: His heritage and training, by Joanna Hardy; reflections on Leane's famous collaboration with Alexander McQueen, by Claire Wilcox; and his modern classic commercial jewellery style, by Vivienne Becker. Altogether, this book provides a vital overview of an artist that will be of interest to anyone who follows the contemporary jewellery and fashion scene. This special edition is limited to just 250 copies. Enclosed in a slipcase, the book is accompanied by a print by photographer Rob Busling, signed by Shaun Leane.
In Italy there has always been a tradition of making jewelery from semi-precious metal, as copies or prototypes of fine jewelery. Fashion Jewelery: Made in Italy moves chronologically through the last 100 years, with pieces from the beginning of the 20th century, through to the years spent under fascist rule, when jewelery had to be strictly made with local material such as wood, cork, straw, venetian glass and coral. The 50s and 60s allowed for the very first big names in fashion jewelery to arise: Giuliano Fratti, Emma Caimi Pellini, Sharra Pagano, Ugo Correani, Coppola e Toppo, Luciana de Reutern, Canesi, Ornella...The book reserves a special place for an important phenomenon that took place in Milan at the end of the 1970s - "Made in Italy" - when Italian fashion entered (and dominated) the international scene, and Italian designers such as Armani, Versace, Ferre, and later on, Moschino and Prada found incredible success all over the world. Throughout the 80s and 90s, and well into the year 2000 further names in fashion jewellery were pushed to the fore: Carlo Zini, Angela Caputi, Maria Calderara, Giorgio Vigna, Fabio Cammarata, Emilio Cressoni, Robert Tomas, Irene Moret, Silvia Beccaria, among others. The final section of the book is devoted to new talents, selecting ten designers whose jewels are particularly interesting and innovative. Famous houses that the jewellery was made for include: Bijoux Bozart, Biki, Carlo Zini, Chanel, Chloe, Coppla E Toppo, Edoardo Saronni, Emilio Pucci, Etro, Fiorucci, Flos Ad Florem, Gianfranco Ferre, Giorgio Armani, Giuliano Fratti, Irene Galitzine, Karl Lagerfeld, Luciana De Reutern, Marni, Missoni, Misterfox, Moschino, Prada, Roberto Capucci, Schiaparelli, Sharra Pagano, Ugo Correani, Unger, Valentino, Versace.
The origins of metalpoint (silverpoint, goldpoint, etc.) drawing are widely thought to lie in classical antiquity. The Luminous Trace investigates the artefactual and literary evidence for the use of metalpoint through the ages from earliest times up to its revival, particularly in the United States, in the later 20th and early 21st centuries, reviewing the history and historiography of metalpoint and its use for drawing and writing. Metalpoint drawings are the central objects of this study and their physical features are the prime consideration, juxtaposed with the written evidence which may suggest why artifacts look as they do.
Native American jewellery of the Southwestern United States in its classic union of white metal and blue turquoise is an iconic form and the focus of this strikingly illustrated new publication. Internationally recognized and locally significant, Native American jewellery has a compelling history which represents the persistence of tradition while encapsulating the vitality of Native American communities and the continuously transforming nature of their contemporary artistic practice. As a traditional item of adornment it can be understood through the complex histories of making and the development of locally important styles and materials. Situating jewellery in the cultural economy of the American Southwest, this publication explores Southwestern jewellery as a decorative form in constant transition. It describes this rich tradition as subject to a number of desires, fostered and regulated, at different times, by government agencies, individual entrepreneurs, traders, curators and Native American communities. It presents a series of perspectives on Southwest Native American jewellery and explores questions relating to Native American jewellery's identity as craft, material culture, commodity and adornment. Considering the impact of tourism, it discusses the phenomenon of fakes and the related desire to codify tradition and traditional styles, and how these affect stylistic development and value. In describing the markets, the markers and the work, the book suggests the complexity and reinvention that is innate to Native jewellery as a commercial craft. The book also examines British activities as regards to collecting, bringing to prominence fieldwork and exchanges between British and American institutions. It traces the networks of individuals, makers and institutions that facilitated the emergence of UK collections from the 1890s to the 1990s, including an account of the activities that led to the development of the British Museum's contemporary collection. The book draws heavily on the author's archival and fieldwork research (undertaken since 1997) which includes interviews with Native American jewellers, as well as traders, dealers and curators within the field. Illustrated with objects from the British Museum's collection and drawing from a wide range of historical and contemporary sources, this book explores the symbolic, economic and communal value of Southwestern jewellery today.
Michelle Ong established Carnet, her Hong Kong-based boutique jewelry house, over twenty-five years ago, and her unique one-off creations draw on Chinese motifs and her love of European culture and craftsmanship. Her multi-hued jewels crystallize natural forms with invisible mastery. The hovering translucency of dragonfly wings, the succulence of ripe fruits, the whisper-light touch of a feather, the seductive fragility of black lace, meticulously hand-wrought from silver, the velvet petals of an anemone, a voluptuously curled seashell, the evanescence of a floating cloud evoked in a scroll of diamonds: each jewel is a miniature sculptural work of art. Jade, China's imperial gemstone, is reworked into an Art Deco-style cocktail ring. Her Chinese dragon, a fiercely benign creature, writhes in blackened gold and pave-set emeralds, breathing a stream of fiery rubies. Ong's work is now acknowledged among the greatest names in high jewelry, renowned for her sublime designs, idiosyncratic colour combinations and deft craftsmanship. This volume will be required reading by serious collectors and aficionados, and a source of deep delight for all those seeking inspiration from the finest of contemporary jewelry creators.
The Chinese people have honoured, revered and cherished jade for over 8,000 years. Consequently, jade has played a unique role in the development of Chinese culture. Jade carvings survive not simply as beautiful works of art, but also as cultural relics shedding light on the spiritual life of ancient China. Utilising a wealth of archaeological evidence and illustrated with precious artifacts, Chinese Jade provides an introduction to the fascinating world of Chinese jade from ancient to modern times.
Thai silver and Nielloware display exquisite craftmanship and design that rivals better-known genres of silver from Asia. However, there has to date been little written about this fascinating subject. Examining the history and scope of specified Thai silver and Nielloware production dating from the early 19th century to the present, as well as the various forms and designs utilised, long-term collector Paul Bromberg provides a single reference source for both newcomers and seasoned collectors alike.
This book discusses the current trends in luxury and jewelry and presents how to make these sustainable for a better future. In the age of sustainability, we increasingly see how designers and consumers begin to think beyond a product's look&feel and operation, and are especially concerned about what has happened during its manufacturing process and what will happen once its useful life comes to an end. Today, consumers value that every industrial product and process should be sustainable, beneficial for the people, the economy and the planet, and so is the case for jewelry.
The Danner Rotunde, the jewellery room in the Pinakothek der Moderne, Munich, was opened in 2004. Ambitious activities by the Danner-Stiftung and Die Neue Sammlung - The Design Museum, with the support of renowned jewellery artists such as Hermann Junger, Otto Kunzli and Peter Skubic, bore the fruit of two globally renowned jewellery collections. Today these comprise far in excess of 1,700 jewellery items, presented in pictures for the first time in this synopsis. Interviews with the creative minds behind these two unique collections in the field of studio jewellery enable insights into a previously unknown history, and an illustrated chronology arrives at astonishing results. Biographies on more than 300 jewellery artists also present those who have been virtually forgotten today. An indispensable compendium on the subject of contemporary jewellery art. Text in English and German.
Earl Krentzin (1929-2021) was a virtuoso silversmith who poured his considerable talents into figurative sculpture, creating whimsical theatrical settings in silver with a wry humour. He was an anomaly in the world of modern craft, having more in common with the 16th-century goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini than with his 20th-century peers. This first full scale monograph on the artist offers the breadth of Krentzin's engaging creations, which he based on his love of toys, movement, and the mechanical arts. Readers will find humour and pathos in his theatrical settings and verisimilitude in every tiny detail, set amidst the burgeoning crafts scene in Detroit. All will discover a modern master who used amusements and daydreams to unlock the imagination.
The Italian goldsmith of the "Paduan School" Giampaolo Babetto is famous for his jewellery - geometrically distinct shapes arranged into refined entities of extraordinary perfection and beauty. However, the artist's wide-ranging spectrum also includes furniture design, silverwork, sculptures, liturgical utensils, and architecture; even his design drawings possess an autonomous character and artistic value. In addition to Christian iconography, his sources of inspiration include the fresco cycles of Renaissance artist Jacopo da Pontormo but also echo Minimalism, Neoplasticism, Neoconstructivism, and "arte programmata/cinetica." The Entity of Being presents the first overarching survey of the virtuoso Babetto. The comprehensive catalogue section is complemented by four contributions that provide exciting insights into the work of this universal artist. Text in English, German and Italian.
Silversmithing is an exciting and developing craft, which combines traditional techniques with contemporary design and technology. This practical book introduces the craft with a guide to the workshop and its tools, then emphasises the importance of drawing and design before explaining key techniques and showing how they can be used in clearly illustrated projects. By keeping the individual pieces small, it explains a range of skills that can be developed and combined to make more adventurous items. It discusses transforming silver sheets or rods into three-dimensional shapes using sinking, raising and forging techniques. It teaches how to silver solder and attach handles to the rounded body of a bowl and create well-fitting seams. Nine projects illustrate the techniques in use and include making spoons, round boxes, hinged lids, drinker beakers and candlesticks.
The art of metalworking has been practiced continuously ll over the world. In this, the Islamic world is no exception. But if we look at the objects unearthed at archaeological digs or in the museums and private collections that have patiently collected them over the centuries, one cannot help but be surprised by the almost infinite quantity of materials, shapes and decorations created both by renowned artists and anonymous craftsmen. Metalworking is a highly important and characteristic sector of Islamic art, and the diffusion of these works in contexts other than where they originated is highly significant evidence of this fact. There can be no doubt that these artefacts were produced by a highly-advanced and structured society whose boundaries and remarkable technical expertise we are still unable to place in wider contexts, most notably historical and social. Prof. Giovanni Curatola took the objects in the Aron Collection as a cue for a meticulous comparative study of medieval Islamic metalwork, making this book a fundamental addition to the literature on the subject.
The essential guide to mounting and setting stones for all levels. Design & Make: Mounting and Setting Stones is a clear and practical introduction to mount construction and the processes of stone setting. Suitable for both the student and the practising jeweller wanting to learn new skills, this book explains how different stones and cuts relate to their mounts. Easy-to-follow, illustrated explanations describe each setting style, including tension, claw, gypsy, pave and rub-over styles, with step-by-step instructions on how to fix the stone in place. With beautiful examples of work from professional jewellers, a detailed look at mount construction and a useful section on specialist tools and techniques, this guide reveals the skills and methods required for successful mounting and setting.
Traditional Indian Jewellery is a vast and detailed publication covering the rich heritage of Indian jewellery and its significance in past and present Indian society. Jewellery plays an important part in the everyday lives, important moments, festivals and religious aspects of Indian culture. It is not only girls and women who wear jewellery, but also boys, men, temple statues and even animals. The book excels in its detailed descriptions, which accompany the sumptuous array of images. We discover why enamel is used in the north of India, the origin and significance of gold, the significance of setting gems in a certain order, and jewellery's spiritual importance. The book covers in detail the meaning of the use of flowers and birds in Hindu influenced jewellery, looking through the eyes of 17th century European travellers who visited the rich Mogul courts. This publication is the result of 35 years of research - travelling, studying, and talking to many people across the entire subcontinent of India, as well as having had unprecedented access to goldsmiths and enamellers; being shown techniques known only to one family, which have been transferred from generation to generation; and being granted access to beautiful and never before seen Royal collections.
The Lacock Cup is a rare object with a unique English history. Made in the 1430s, it is one of a handful of pieces of secular silver from the Middle Ages, which both survived the changing culture of Tudor fashion and the turmoil of the Reformation. Originally created as a drinking cup for feasting in the fifteenth century, the Cup later became a sacred chalice for the community of Lacock in Wiltshire at the parish church of Saint Cyriac. With an unbroken local heritage of over 400 years, this piece was a central feature of religious ceremony until the late twentieth century. The remarkable story of this special cup is brought to life in this short and accessible book. Its history, from drinking vessel to holy chalice, opens a window into the culture of late medieval England and having survived the centuries in near perfect condition, it acts as a witness to these times of great change. Charting the journey of the Cup, from fifteenth century medieval society, through the Reformation and later Civil War to the present day, this book will also explore the Cup's role as a communion vessel in its local setting of Lacock, and its treatment at the British Museum where it has been on loan since 1962. The Cup remained in irregular use by the parish until the 1980s, and this story of over 500 years of outstanding care and use provides a fitting conclusion to one of England's most important silver objects.
Learn all you need to know about the significance of rings and how to make various types with step-by-step projects. In this book, Jinks McGrath explains everything you need to know to make different types of rings - from plain bands and Russian wedding rings to tension settings and cast rings. Following her expert advice, you will learn how to make synclastic and anticlastic shapes, how to set stones, how to enamel and how to fuse and texture different metals. The book is also packed with valuable tips about soldering, filing, shaping and polishing, and entire sections are devoted to different types of mounts, settings and finishing techniques. Clearly illustrated, easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions make this book accessible and simple to use regardless of your starting skill level, and the beautiful photographs of rings from an international range of established jewellers provide plenty of inspiration for your own work.
Alongside artistically experimental aspects of education, the ThinkingJewellery 'trademark' stands as a contextual leitmotif throughout the gemstones and jewellery study programme at Trier University/Idar-Oberstein campus. The aims of ThinkingJewellery comprise scientifically oriented research as well as discourse on the historical and societal interconnection of jewellery. Highlights are the ThinkingJewellery symposia, which are now accompanied by a series of periodicals. The new series discusses contributions to a contemporary theory of jewellery beyond disciplinary boundaries or typical categories. The texts envisioned for ThinkingJewellery 2 include 'On the Cultural History of the Gemstone', 'Goethe on Colour' and 'Cold Shine - Empty Glamour, on Jeff Koons's Celebration Series', which are based on lectures from the 2017 symposium.
The emergence of bronze ware forms a crucial chapter in the history of human civilization. Although not the first country to enter the Bronze Age, China enjoys a unique position in world history because of the great variety of innovative and beautiful bronze ware that has been unearthed on China's vast territory. These artifacts provide a window into the art and culture of ancient China. Chinese Bronze Ware introduces the reader to this magnificent culture with thorough discussion of the context and significance of bronze production, vivid descriptions and full-color illustrations.
The Art & Times of Daniel Jocz presents the entrancing and challenging work of American jewellery artist and sculptor Daniel Jocz. There is a spontaneous quality to the work, yet it is always rich with meaning. His open spirit is fully embodied in the 2007 neckpiece series An American's Riff on the Millstone Ruff. Inspired by the extravagant scale of 17th-century Dutch ruffs at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, he decided to update them with automobile paint. Jeannine Falino takes an in-depth look at the twists and turns of Jocz's long career, from his early geometric sculptures to the fashion-forward flocked Candy Wear collection, and from his ruminations on Marlene Dietrich in the form of necklaces featuring enamel smoked cigarettes to the wall reliefs he explores today. Wendy Steiner considers Jocz's place in the avant-garde through the lens of fashion and culture, while Patricia Harris and David Lyon explore his involvement in the rollicking Boston jewellery scene of the late 20th century.
For more than four decades, jewellery artist and educator Laurie Hall has been making stories the subject of her work. Her playful, often whimsical jewellery made with found objects is about the places she lives, the landscapes that fill her imagination, her family history, and her ideas of what it is to be an American. As a jeweller, Hall never plays it safe, preferring to fly by the seat of her pants and push her skills and technical knowledge. Her work is part of numerous private and public collections including The Museum of Art and Design in NYC, The Tacoma Art Museum, The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. She is a product of the jewellery histories that make the Pacific Northwest unique within the larger story of American contemporary jewellery. Featuring 58 images of Hall's jewellery spanning the period from 1974 to 2019, this book explores why she is an important maker whose practice deserves to be more widely known. |
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