With climate change, erosion, and human encroachment on coastal
environments growing all over the world, it is increasingly
important to protect populations and environments close to the sea
from storms, tsunamis, and other events that can be not just costly
to property but deadly. This book is one step in bringing the
science of protection from these events forward, the most in-depth
study of its kind ever published. The analytic and numerical
modeling problems of nonlinear wave activities in shallow water are
analyzed in this work. Using the author's unique method described
herein, the equations of shallow water are solved, and asymmetries
that cannot be described by the Stokes theory are solved. Based on
analytical expressions, the impacts of dispersion effects to wave
profiles transformation are taken into account. The 3D models of
the distribution and refraction of nonlinear surface gravity wave
at the various coast formations are introduced, as well. The work
covers the problems of numerical simulation of the run-up of
nonlinear surface gravity waves in shallow water, transformation of
the surface waves for the 1D case, and models for the refraction of
numerical modeling of the run-up of nonlinear surface gravity waves
at beach approach of various slopes. 2D and 3D modeling of
nonlinear surface gravity waves are based on Navier-Stokes
equations. In 2D modeling the influence of the bottom of the
coastal zone on flooding of the coastal zone during storm surges
was investigated. Various stages of the run-up of nonlinear surface
gravity waves are introduced and analyzed. The 3D modeling process
of the run-up is tested for the coast protection work of the slope
type construction. Useful for students and veteran engineers and
scientists alike, this is the only book covering these important
issues facing anyone working with coastal models and ocean,
coastal, and civil engineering in this area.
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