In Byzantium two overlapping systems of dress existed: a semiotic
one whereby dress was a code for rank and wealth, and a fashion
system where dress was based on the desire to look a certain way.
Courtiers participated in a semiotic system of dress, but fashion
crept into their prescribed outfits; the nobility chose their
clothing based primarily on individual taste, but status was
encoded within their fashions. This book elucidates secular dress
from the eighth to the twelfth centuries through an examination of
painted representations, helping the reader to envision an entire
society of dressed citizens.
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